Accurate benchrest RUGER??

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by JackRabbitSquare, Jul 30, 2003.

  1. JackRabbitSquare

    JackRabbitSquare Well-Known Member

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    I have a project in mind and I thought I would see what you guys think. I have a Ruger M77 30-06 that suffers from a poor barrel and an even worse stock, but it does have and extremely smooth action and a great trigger. I don’t think it is original but since I bought the rifle used I am not sure. It has been my hunting rifle since I was 12 and it doesn’t seem to want to hold a group any more.

    I was thinking about having it re-barreled in a 6.5-06 AI, from Pac-Nor I could have a barrel installed and the action lapped and trued. I was thinking about a 30” or so, 1.25” no taper barrel with a barrel block. I figure this would take the stress off the action and I am not sure the Ruger action would handle the weight very well. I would be using a Benchrest style laminate stock from Elk Ridge Stocks.

    I am not concerned with weight but I want a benchrest style varmint gun that is accurate. I figure with the gun work, barrel, stock and barrel block I should be into it for around $800-$1000, I would like to use a nice action but the extra cost is a concern. Do you think that the above setup would work or should I try to get a different action?

    And on another note, it is great to be back reading about Long Range Hunting. School has been taking all my time and I haven’t been back to this site in a long time. Glad to see you all are still giving out the good info.
     
  2. jcpython357

    jcpython357 Well-Known Member

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    Pennell, I don't think your going to get more accuracy out of a barrel with no taper, and then you got to lug that thing around, A regular Remington type varmint taper, or even slightly less of a taper, will serve you just as well in the accuracy dept. and it will be easier to carry, The Ruger action should be a fine platform to rebuild that rifle. Check into the Polygonal barrels that Pac-Nor makes. Jay
     

  3. JackRabbitSquare

    JackRabbitSquare Well-Known Member

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    I am not worried about the weight; I am planning on building the gun for varmints and paper mostly. I figure the weight would probably be around 30lbs or so. Also with the straight tube the barrel block will be simple otherwise I have to have a custom taper cut.

    I am thinking on shooting the 140/142gr MatchKing and the 140gr A-Max, any suggestions on the twist? I think the velocity would be in the 3100 fps range.
     
  4. H-BAR

    H-BAR Well-Known Member

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    Pennell not many gunsmiths want to be bothered working on Rugers. I had entertained that very same thought and found it hard to find a quality gunsmith to make a bench type gun from one. I have a varmint/target model Ruger that is super accurate. Even after several thousand rounds the thing still shoots great. I absolutely tortured that rifle and it still is as reliable as when I first biught it. If you find a good gunsmith that will build a bench gun and find a bench style stock for it I would be interested in hearing about it. I have the train of thought that if you put a good barrel on a Ruger action that it will shoot as good as anything else.
     
  5. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    Pennell

    Think you are off on your costs a little, assuming you have a gunsmith do it all:

    Bedding block with barrel installed $300-400 30" Barrel chambered is $450-500
    Elk Ridge stock (not sure cost) $250-350
    Inletting & auto clear finish $200-300

    for that reason, I agree skip the bedding block. I have a 6.5-06AI with 28" barrel and I can easily get 3000fps. Just buy standard HV taper. John Hoover has 12 new 8.5 twist 6.5 Kriegers in now for $290, PA taper that will finish 29-30" and .930 at muzzle. Just ordered one to rebarrel mine.

    Go with the 8.5 twist, AMAX, or JLK

    Second depending on price, look at a Bruce Baer laminated stock. You can get a LG stock already inletted for $250-275, so compare to elk ridge prices and Bruce's stocks are second to none. All colors and 25 stock patterns and can mix and match fronts and rear.

    finally, I would recommend that you go with 6.5-284, the 06AI requires fireforming and only great brass is Lapua. Absolutely no difference in accuracy or velocity. No need for custom dies, get off shelf Redding comp dies. Only reason I am staying with the 06AI, is I have the reamer and custom dies already and just fireformed 100 pieces of Lapua brass and old barrel is going to be fireforming barrel.

    If you are going to get a barrel block, buy the split block. Will save you big bucks later when you rebarrel. Cost on removing barrel from single block that has barrel glued in is higher.

    Finally, you will find brass will last longer and accuracy better if keep velocity in 3000 fps range. 3100 fps is really pushing the 284 or the 06AI and primer pockets are first to go.

    BH
     
  6. JackRabbitSquare

    JackRabbitSquare Well-Known Member

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    BountyHunter, I figured the cost as $500 for the barreled action, $250 for the stock, and whatever the cost of a barrel block is. I am not sure on the cost of a block but I figured a glue-in type it couldn’t be that bad and a split type shouldn’t be too much over $250. As for the stock Elk Ridge is here in Oregon so I could run down there and explain what I want and have a unfinished drop-in with extra wood and the barrel channel cut for approx $250, not including the cost for a barrel block cut out.

    As for the dies I hadn’t really thought about that. I didn’t think that 06AI dies would be a problem but it looks like Redding only has 6.5-06. I will look into the 6.5-284, but I like the 06 and I have lots of brass for it, so maybe just a 6.5-06 and some Redding competition dies?? As to the quality of the brass it looks like Norma and Lapua both have 06 brass and I though Winchester brass was supposed to be decent.

    This is all theory right now as the money for a project just isn’t here, hopefully in a couple of months. Mostly I am just trying to figure out if the Ruger action is worth building the gun on or if I should be keeping my eyes open for a different action.

    [ 07-31-2003: Message edited by: Pennell ]
     
  7. DANTEC

    DANTEC Well-Known Member

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    I prefer 6.5/06 because the 6.5/06 family have a longer neck and that more easy to follow the throat wear , long neck seem more smooth for throat erosion too , only problem is that regular 06 reamer have a broad base and you get large base after firing

    design as 265 RCBS or 264 Williams ( midle imp case ) are very fine if you plan to go in Wildcat , reamer available from JGS

    check you neck diameter too , over 0.297 that far too broad , I use 0.297 for Hunting / varmint and 0.292 for shooting , all my 6.5/06 case are made from 270 Win to get a prefect square neck when finish at right lenght

    Forster die are very good and seater work fine for less money than Redding seater , you just need to find a S die from Reddind , 25.06 with minor modification works fine ( 25.06 AI too )

    good shooting

    DAN TEC
     
  8. remingtonman_25_06

    remingtonman_25_06 Well-Known Member

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    Pennell

    What part of Oregon you from? I'm in Hermiston. Good luck with your project.
     
  9. JackRabbitSquare

    JackRabbitSquare Well-Known Member

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    BH thanks for the offer but money is a little tight right now. Summer is the time to save up for school, and I am trying not to spend the money till I know I can.

    If I go with the 6.5-06 and not the AI I wouldn't have to fireform the brass correct? That would make the reloading process simpler and if I can get the same performance it might be a simpler answer.

    remingtonman_25_06 I am going to school in Corvallis but I grew up in John Day.
     
  10. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    Pennell

    brass and dies are your cheapest part, so do not let that drive the train. Custom Neil Jones dies for your chamber are $275 and that is shoulder bump bushing and micrometer seater die. Redding or Forester can do custom BR dies off your chamber specs or fired brass. I would go with either 6.5-284 or 06AI, and new brass for either so same cost. Do not settle for less than what you want, or will never be happy.

    One piece blocks are a royal pain for a gunsmith to change barrels (glue in barrel to block) while the split block costs more initially, but are easy and much cheaper to change barrels.

    As for the Ruger action, Phillip Yott is the first IBS 1000 yard shooter to get 100 points winning matches (1/2 point relay win and 1 pt match win) and shoots a mauser action and a win m70, so lots of guns can be made competitive. Ruger problem will be good aftermarket trigger IF you want one.

    elk ridge is good stock, I have one obtained on trade, so I had no idea as to cost now. Just mentioning the Baer so you can have a price comparison.

    Just got a call from a friend of mine who has a Snake River (west coast mftr) SS HV taper 6.5 barrel 1-8 twist that is 28-29" finished that is for sale $200 if you are interested. He won it.

    BH
     
  11. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    Pennell

    you are correct that by staying with the standard 6.5-06 you do not have to fireform but no way you get same performance. Would have to check, but I would imagine you would top out at around 2900-2950 fps if that, but could be wrong, basically 140 gr 270 Win velocities.

    Better check some more and reconsider the 6.5-284 if you are trying to keep em in 3000 fps range. Nothing wrong at 2900 if that is ok with what you are trying to do.

    BH
     
  12. 308jockey

    308jockey New Member

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    Pennell,

    I'm very new here but I have a nicely built .308 on a Ruger. There seems to be no problem with upgraded parts and stock. Accuracy is great, especially for a hacker like me. At your price range I think you'll be fine.

    Rick H.