a new rifle

AJ300MAG,

sorry about that... did I mention I was REALLY happy with the 2 rifles he built me??

grin.gif
wink.gif
 
AJ,
I believe you're right, tolerances tightened up considerably, and Mobil 1 both! After 500 - 1000 miles, all my motors get is Mobil 1, and they still crank over in the winter too.

Lots of things in a motor that are fitted for a specific tolerance known to work, and there are "various" opinions as to what those are too. Same with an action.

I believe that every action needs to be measured in certain areas before work, some only after. Depending on how an action's threads are offset, off axis, mine may not be trued with the same thread as another.

If Chris were to follow a set blueprint, he'd probably be removing way more material at each step of truing than he ever needed to just to be sure that every action would true up with the spec's in those plans, and some smiths "might" just actually do this.

Most of it's like honing for pistons though, each one gets special attention as it may be slightly different, clearance is paramount.

Decking a block, line boring the crank and cam journals, correct warpage and core shift. After doing it though, you can produce excess pressure on timing gears or a slack chain, critical deck and valve clearances etc.

How one machining step affects other areas is accounted for, just less to account for in an action is all. Each one is really its own animal to be dealt with.
 
I don't follow specs set by a blueprint- Remington's tolerances are way to sloppy to cut 'em to certain specs. I simply remove as much material that's needed to get everything trued up. Some actions it takes alot, some very little.
Ric, If it will help you to stop slobbering, I'll have my 4 year old girl draw you a picture of your rifles!
grin.gif
 
action blueprinting,
the true and correct way to blueprint an action is to open the bolt raceway to a true and known consistant dimention. this is done with a custom made cutter mandral and bushings. my shop uses a .705 inch mandral to open the raceway. the reciever is then indicated in a fixture in the lathe to less than .0001 inch with the mandral and two dial indicators. at this point, the lug seats are recut. then the threads are cut singlepoint in the lathe while in the same fixture, because the factory used a tap and the threads are never perfectly straight. the last step in the reciever process is to recut the reciever face. once the reciever is done, you set up the bolt in the lathe and indicate it in. then you cut .o50 in deep and make 2 stainless steel sleeves to go on the bolt. they are put on and turned down to .0003 in smaller than the bolt raceway. while still in the lathe, you recut the back and front of the locking lugs. lastly you recut the bolt face. now you have a perfectly truely lined up action.
 
Barnard Actions are made to very tight tolerences straight out of the box. The bolt is ground to fit the bore. The outside is also ground concentric to the bore.
1000 yard accuracy no worries.
smile.gif
 
Warning! This thread is more than 21 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top