100 clicks

Zookman,

We all started at the beginning and worked up. So, there's no shame there.

It's great that you've had exceptional results thus far. And, I commend you. Welcome aboard.

I for one am skeptical and perhaps others are as well as to whether or not you're going to consistently shoot well at long range with factory ammo be it targets or hunting.

It sounds like the only way to get your existing rifle to 1k is by maxing out your elevation and then using the reticule to hold over the target. When that occurs, you also have reduced your windage adjustment to little or nothing which will be a huge problem even if you get the slightest cross-wind because those bullets are not designed for long range and thus have a comparatively low BC.

The 20 MOA scope base as was suggested is the way to go. You will also need an accurate range finder or really good Mil dot ranging skills.

One option would be to continue practicing at 617yds and have fun while you see if that ammo continues to perform well for you after many 5 shot groups. Even if you group well with it, you may find your POI shifting from box to box much more so than would be the case with handloads.

Additionally, I really think factory ammo will begin to frustrate you at longer distances and you will eventually be compelled to handload as the sport is addictive and you will certainly want to continue.

It seems that you're leaning that direction anyhow. So, why waste money?

Read the book, "Precision Shooting at 1,000 Yards."
Purchase the necessary base and rings.
Get a good range finder if you don't yet have one.
Start hand loading with high BC bullets.
Get a good ballistics program. I use Nightforce NFBal. But, there are many others including ones that are free.

Hope this helps...
Richard
 
thanks richard i have a lot to learn we drag raced for six yrs i was glad to get opinions n help if the majority told me the same thing i would try it ! ordering some hsm 168vld's n try them
 
ordering some hsm 168vld's n try them
Sounds like a good start.

I tried HSM and Black Hills and my rifle just didn't like those loads particularly well. I don't think it was the ammo. It just didn't get along.

So, I finally bit the dust and started handloading and have only regretted that I didn't start sooner. I wasted a lot of $$$ and barrel life on factory ammo. Trying to reach out farther and farther.

Your rifle may really like them.
 
You can buy a kit for $350-450 to get started.

But, you'll be adding tools and gadgets and replacing each piece within 6-8 months with better equipment.

You really need to read up a bit before making a hasty decision. Better yet, find someone that really knows what they're doing and hang out with them.

I think there are forums that are specifically tailored towards reloading. There are probably some really good articles that have been published on this web site. So, you might try some searching on this site.
 
Your inital post said "100 clicks"....I had to assume that was all you had to work with....now you say 45 moa (180 clicks) in both directions.

And again...remember that a bullet goes "stupid" at around 1300 - 1400 fps......you will be well below this number (1100 fps) at 1K.

Your 3/4 moa @ 600 yard gun will have you pulling your hair out at 1K.
 
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How long have you been shooting? The first thing you should know is that any time you vary bullet weights or style of ammo that there will normally be a completely different grouping from the other stuff you have been shooting! That is the first thing a person needs to know is when you go hunting you should be using the exact same ingredients, if you will, that you sighted the rifle in with. Doing anything else is a recipe for disaster! It would seem that this thread shows that you should stick to very moderate distances if you plan to hunt and only shoot targets at any kind of distances!
 
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Well had a few boxes of 175 corelokts groups were @ moa ! But 3ft lower than 150's don't understand that

Get a ballistics program that has factory load data. I use the one from Nightforce, but there are many others including free ones and online websites.

The published data is based on arbitrary test barrels and won't be identical to your rifle. But, it'll let you see in advance the relative trajectory and effects of wind on different ammo that you're considering using.

It will also be very helpful if/when you start reloading. ..especially if you acquire a chrony to verify muzzle velocity.
 
Topgun 40 yrs. I've taking deer @ 300 just started shootin out to 600 + n yes I know different loads n brands don't have same trajectory. Was just trying them after work. N richard I looked it up on remington site before I shoot ! Was only 4" lower @ 500. But wasn't true! 1/4wind. N I was on wind just thought they would not b that far apart.
 
N richard I looked it up on remington site before I shoot ! Was only 4" lower @ 500. But wasn't true!
Consistency and quality control on factory ammo gets real iffy the farther out you push them.

It sounds like they were consistent within that same box giving you a 1 MOA group.

But, as you stated, it was nothing like what the mfg published. The next box may shoot a foot or two higher and may or may not group as well.

I may be overly harsh/skeptical with factory ammo. Some are better than others and while Rem Core-Lokt isn't known as a "premium" load/bullet, your rifle seems to like it.

Nonetheless, lack of consistency for long range has been my experience. At closer range, your velocity can vary a lot and still hold POI and group well.
 
If you are not going to reload, then borrow or buy a chronograph and a computer program and punch YOUR numbers into them.
 
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