PSE TAC 15/15i crossbows and broadhead accuracy tips

[Len Backus]

Be very serious about sorting arrow/broadhead combinations right away. I have had phenomenal accuracy with Phat Head broadheads when shooting thw same arrow repeatedly for groups. But -- when I started shooting multiple arrows with broadheads my groups opened up so much I thought something was wrong with my shooting or with the bow itself. Of course, much of the confusion and disappointment was because we are dealing with such an amazingly accurate crossbow and our expectations are about a mile high. Remember, using the same arrow and broadhead I have been getting 1 to 2 inch two-shot groups out to 100 yards. Prior to culling, I have seen 5 and 7 inch five-shot groups at 50 yards. (Again, can you imagine the hubris to be complaining about that kind of accuracy )

Once I conceded that the arrow/broadhead combo is not going to give us good groups with multiple arrows without serious culling I made quick progress.

I think the key is to cull at 30 to 50 yards where you are not as likely to loose arrows. If I were starting over, I would still buy Phat Heads for sure. If I were serious about it I would buy not less than a dozen Phat Heads to get me started. I would attach them to 12 arrows right away and start shooting all of them for groups. Number the arrows and keep track of the POI of each shot with each arrow. Quickly eliminate any that shot poorly at these close distances.

Then move out to more serious ranges with those that grouped together at, say, 50 yards. I now have 5 arrows that are good out to 80 yards. Four of the 5 gave me a 4 inch vertical this morning and horizontal was 5 inches. I'll try these same 5 tomorrow am out to 100 yards and maybe further if the wind is low enough.

 

[J E Custom]

Be very serious about sorting arrow/broadhead combinations right away. I have had phenomenal accuracy with Phat Head broadheads when shooting thw same arrow repeatedly for groups. But -- when I started shooting multiple arrows with broadheads my groups opened up so much I thought something was wrong with my shooting or with the bow itself. Of course, much of the confusion and disappointment was because we are dealing with such an amazingly accurate crossbow and our expectations are about a mile high. Remember, using the same arrow and broadhead I have been getting 1 to 2 inch two-shot groups out to 100 yards. Prior to culling, I have seen 5 and 7 inch five-shot groups at 50 yards. (Again, can you imagine the hubris to be complaining about that kind of accuracy )

Once I conceded that the arrow/broadhead combo is not going to give us good groups with multiple arrows without serious culling I made quick progress.

I think the key is to cull at 30 to 50 yards where you are not as likely to loose arrows. If I were starting over, I would still buy Phat Heads for sure. If I were serious about it I would buy not less than a dozen Phat Heads to get me started. I would attach them to 12 arrows right away and start shooting all of them for groups. Number the arrows and keep track of the POI of each shot with each arrow. Quickly eliminate any that shot poorly at these close distances.

Then move out to more serious ranges with those that grouped together at, say, 50 yards. I now have 5 arrows that are good out to 80 yards. Four of the 5 gave me a 4 inch vertical this morning and horizontal was 5 inches. I'll try these same 5 tomorrow am out to 100 yards and maybe further if the wind is low enough.

+1
All arrows even though they are the same size and weight have slightly different spines and
tuning the broad heads to the Fletch and weighting them will not produce the optimum results.

Numbering the arrows and shooting them out of order and logging them on the target will give
better results after shooting 4 or 5 times (Groups)

The reason for mixing them up to shoot them is to avoid shooter error. (The first time I tried
numbered arrows after a few shots I caught my self allowing for the errant arrow by holding
off center). I guess I just wanted them all to shoot perfect.

So I just started grabbing any arrow and shooting it with out looking at the number.

After I sorted the good shooting arrows I tried to adjust the type, weight and orientation of
the other arrows and weight seemed to have the most effect but sometimes just rotating
the broad head would correct it and as long as it hit the same spot I used it.

But those arrows were marked to keep them separate from the others because they had to
be set up differently than the "Good" ones.

Just the way I tune arrows.

J E CUSTOM

 

[OkieBowie]

Re: PSE TAC 15/15i accuracy tips

Posting this here, since I can't start a new thread yet.

A Quick accuracy Tip / Heads-Up:

If you have not recently checked your crossbow scope mounts, do so now vs. finding out in the field the mounts are just starting to come loose. Also check any scope to rail adapters.

Even if you happen to have the correct set of Allen/Torque/Phillips bits to tighten a loose mount in the field, that is the last place you want to be fiddling and then introducing doubt.


My FYI comes from having just gotten back from the range and noticing a very slight sensation of movement between the scope and the frame/pistol-grip. A check of the scope rings found them to be tight. The adapter (scope maker's) between the scope rings and rail mount appeared tightly clamped. But after removing the scope, I found the adapter screws were snug, but not tight. Some tightening and all was well.

Good luck with this year's Archery season.

 

[vpexp]

How are you guys keeping the fletching on your Tac 15 arrows? Out of one pack of 6 arrows the most shots I was able to get out of an arrow was four shots before at least one fletch would be knocked off. Most of them lost some fletching by the second shot. Is ther something wrong with my set up or do I need to do something special to keep the flecthing on?

 

[Len Backus]

since I can't start a new thread yet

Whoops, I fixed it so you can start a thread.

Fletching problems: I experienced the same or close to it with my earliest batch of arrows. My latest are real good, though.

Couple thoughts,

1. As soon as you get your arrows check how much "height" there is at the leading edge of each vane. Take a really close cutting scissors and cut off the leading edge on any vanes that may have excess height to the leading edge of the vane, tapering it by cutting close to the shaft. If someone else understands my words, feel welcome to clarify my words with your own.
   
2. Place a tiny dab of glue at the leading edge of each vane to reinforce the attachment at that crucial spot before you start shooting the new arrows.
3. As soon as you notice the tiniest tear or loosening of a vane's leading edge, do the scissors thing to trim away the tear or loosened edge.
4. You'll need to own a fletching jig that handles the 4 vane configuration. I bought one but haven't used it yet.

 

[OkieBowie]

How are you guys keeping the fletching on your Tac 15 arrows? Out of one pack of 6 arrows the most shots I was able to get out of an arrow was four shots before at least one fletch would be knocked off. Most of them lost some fletching by the second shot. Is ther something wrong with my set up or do I need to do something special to keep the flecthing on?

It is not just you. I believe the company that makes PSE's TAC-15 arrows had a bad run.

I have had four arrows loose their fletching ranging from the first shot to the tenth shot. However, I had two sets of six and one set of three that got mixed together, so I can't say if all of them came from one set. None of the arrows had been abused (buried to the fletching in a backstop or pulled out by the fletching).
A local archery shop believes the shafts were not properly prepped so the glue didn't stick. Still, one looked like it had almost no glue in the middle.
The fletchings come loose at the front, the back, and even in the middle.

Call PSE and get a Return Authorization number to have the arrows replaced. PSE needs the feedback so they can get to the cause of the problem.

 

[ABader]

Hey Len, I bought a Tac-15 from you in December and have finally had nice enough weather to go out and shoot. The accuracey is awesome as many have posted. This thing is very fun to shoot.

I know that PSE reccomends two broad heads and have seen some info on the PHAT HEAD tips. Have you tried the GRIM REAPER Razor Tips? I Bought 100 grain in both brands and was wondering how they work. Also, what target are you using for them?

Thanks,
Alan

 

[Len Backus]

Alan, good to hear from you and that you are having fun with it.

I haven't tried any mechanical because the Phathead worked right away.

I'm sure some of the good ones will fly well. I have been wondering, though, how well they will hold up to the repeated shooting into denser broadhead targets (and removal) necessary to work out drop tables and broadhead arrow sorting needs.

Please let me know.

 

[ABader]

What target are you using for broadheads?

Thanks

 

[Len Backus]

Block crossbow

..

 

[Konrad]

Proper cleaning of either alloy or carbon composite shafts is mandatory prior to fletching with plastic vanes or natural feathers. White Ivory soap and hot water scrubbed onto the shaft with a new sponge and then wiping with a clean paper towel in one direction, one time and then air drying for ten minutes will produce a clean, oil-free shaft ready for the gluing process.

A small drop fletching glue applied to the leading end of the base of the vane is standard procedure after the vane has been glued to the shaft. I set a kitchen timer for ten minutes setting time for each vane glued while in the clamp. Twelve hours at 72 degrees F curing time will produce a bond that only a razor blade will remove. Cooler room temperatures will require a longer curing duration.

Depending on the vane selected, some bases of the vanes are treated with a primer and as such have a finite shelf life. I have found Bohnig's Blazer vanes have been both durable and extremely accurate. They also stabilize my largish fixed blade broadheads as well as my field points.

Bohnig's FletchTite Platinum glue has produced excellent results on all shaft materials I have used.

I would also suggest the Bitzenberger fletching clamp tool as there is none finer on the market…the benchmark against which all others are judged.

Remember, after cleaning, touching the shaft or the vane's base is verboten.

Numbering shafts is critical to sorting. Verifying both ends of the shaft are square is critical as well. Try placing your arrows point down on a hard surface and spinning them.
Wobbling equals poor flight. If you can see it, it will make a difference, particularly at extended range.

 

[rc40099]

I just purchased a pse tac 15i, what broadhead head should be used. I saw comments on the atom heads.
I need information type and weight.
thanks