In order to bring out the beauty of that wood, you need a "Gloss Finish"!
Any Stock Finishers here ? I have a couple questions
- Thread starter CjC73
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
I disagree. When using something that will highlight the grain of the wood, that is what shows off the beauty. Both of these tables I did have a satin finish and the beauty shows just as well if not better than a gloss.
Attachments
Very nice tables there. Yep, agree with you, never cared much for those overly glossy Weatherby rigs. Satin and hand rubbed oil finishes have a bit higher class look.
Last edited:
Sorry to differ: Claro& Black Walnut, s need gloss to show off Fiddleback & Crotch figure. As does Maple.
The smaller table is walnut and the crotch figure shows perfectly. I don't mind anyone disagreeing, we all are entitled to our opinions. For me the glossy finish reflects the light which will cause a glare making it to where you don't see the wood.
PutInOut
Active Member
I got the stock from Richards microfit stocks. I sanded a lot to shape the rollover, grip and fore end tip. Installed pillars and bedded it with jb weld, first time I ever did s bedding job.
Muledeerhuntingfreak
Well-Known Member
The whole problem of using a gloss finishes. You can't send it out and rub more oil on to make it go away and make it look like it never got scratched. That is why you use boiled Lynn seed oil. There's lots of videos. There's a really good one on YouTube. Look it up the guy does awesome work.
Great advice all...thank you...
I was hand rubbing the oil in. Some coats I'd dab the oil on withy finger then use my palm to rub it in. Also, during the first 10 coats or so, I was wet sanding with 400/600/.... Didn't seem to be filling in any pores, or at least it didn't look that way.
I didn't like the way the pores were still not filled after so many coats of oil. So I sanded it down with 320 and now trying to get as much oil out before I start over. Sandpaper is gumming up quick while I do it now.
I'm going to use some permalyn sealer to fill in the pores and go from there. Just curious as to how far do I have to take it down before I start in with the sealer. This is where it's at now. The first picture is where I tried using some light heat to draw out the oil.
I was hand rubbing the oil in. Some coats I'd dab the oil on withy finger then use my palm to rub it in. Also, during the first 10 coats or so, I was wet sanding with 400/600/.... Didn't seem to be filling in any pores, or at least it didn't look that way.
I didn't like the way the pores were still not filled after so many coats of oil. So I sanded it down with 320 and now trying to get as much oil out before I start over. Sandpaper is gumming up quick while I do it now.
I'm going to use some permalyn sealer to fill in the pores and go from there. Just curious as to how far do I have to take it down before I start in with the sealer. This is where it's at now. The first picture is where I tried using some light heat to draw out the oil.
Allen Lone wolf
Well-Known Member
I sand my stocks going all the way to 800 grit then I use 0000 steel wool until it's smooth as glass also use a tac cloth to remove any dust. Be careful not to touch with your bare fingers in this final stage as not to leave the oil from your skin in the wood which will leave spots. I use thin rubber gloves to start applying tung oil .it will absorb into the wood at first. I et each coat dry overnight then repeat.I always put 30 coats. I will post picks of results on 2 rifles one is exhibition grade and the other #5 extra fancy both Claro fiddle walnut.
Attachments
Only time (my opinion) a low luster finish is correct is on the King of Gunstock woods , English or Circassian. ( same species , just different growing areas).
As long as the oil you used before is similar, you don't need to strip it. Permalyn is a very high-quality Linseed oil impregnated with urethane for durability/water resistance. Build with the sealer until the surface starts to gloss then add cutting (sanding) the surface after coats until the pores are filled. Lastly do the final coat and buff to finish. Rotten stone can be used on that last coat.
As to sheen, the only place a high gloss finish belongs on wood is the local bar countertops. High gloss detracts from fine figure. Flat finishes hide it too in a different way. The satin you get with oil is the perfect gloss level to let the figure shine and not detract from it.
That said, spray-on finishes that are natively glossy use flattening agents to lower the gloss. Those agents cloud the finish, more with additional coats and to get progressively lower gloss levels. When spraying those finishes on, I build with the glossy sealer then final coat with 1-2 of the lower gloss top coat. The oils don't do that but take a substantial amount of time to apply and traditionally don't protect as well. Permalyn solves the second issue.
Years ago Steven Dodd Hughes did an excellent write-up on finishing wood gunstocks in Shooting Sportsman. I think that article is also in one of his books. I'll check in a bit when I get a chance to review.
PutInOut
Active Member
Ebony fore end tip is ALWAYS a classic and beautiful touch.
