Now I'm confused. I always thought the back of the lug was the side closest to the action. Either way, a pinch fit makes sense to me so it doesn't move around in the stock. I don't take my rifles apart unless I have to. Just me
Yet another DIY bedding question
- Thread starter GuroChris
- Start date
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25WSM
Well-Known Member
Most of my target guns are glued in. So it doesn't matter to me either.
Call it what you want as long as the recoil side bares it's good.
Shep
Call it what you want as long as the recoil side bares it's good.
Shep
So the front of the lug faces the front of the action, I'm calling BS.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
Call it what you like.
Shep
Shep
GuroChris
Well-Known Member
" A rose by any other name...." fellas lets not quibble over small stuff. I think of archery with that sort of nomenclature. I can never remember which is the belly or the back of the bow.
@ 25wsm, If I'm getting this right, so far, you're recommending Pro-Bed 2000, only tape the bottom and follow The instructions from the link, even though he uses devcon not ProBed?
Also, I'd like your thoughts on pillars. I had previously assumed that since the stock has an aluminum block they were unneccessary.
@ 25wsm, If I'm getting this right, so far, you're recommending Pro-Bed 2000, only tape the bottom and follow The instructions from the link, even though he uses devcon not ProBed?
Also, I'd like your thoughts on pillars. I had previously assumed that since the stock has an aluminum block they were unneccessary.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
The Franklin method works real good. I use the pro bed 2000 and the pro-bed pillers. Score hi has a system and it works good.
One more reply and then I will quit before I make someone mad. With an aluminum chasis or block I rough up the aluminum and bed right on the aluminum block-no need for pillars, that will basically hold the action up off the aluminum block. Which leaves most of the support on the two pillars when you tighten the action screws. The pillars wont shrink but the compound will, even if very minutely, cancelling the support of the aluminum block and the bedding.
The compound shrinks very little. Check out the tds. It only shrinks .0006cm/cm. If that is still too much for you, do a two step bed. Rough bed, then skim bed later after full cure
25WSM
Well-Known Member
I don't recommend pillers in an aluminum block stock either.
Shep
Shep
25WSM
Well-Known Member
I don't know why that is under scored.
Shep
Shep
I'm with ya. No need
25WSM
Well-Known Member
I stated in post 11 pillers not needed on aluminum bedding block stocks.
Shep
Shep
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
My own thinking is that if the metal of the block does not extend thru the stock to contact with the bottom metal, then metal needs to be added so that there is an all metal column for the action screws to pass thru. If the bedding block does contact the bottom metal then there is no place to put a pillar.
Maybe I misunderstand the point of pillars, but to me they are so that when the action screws are tight it is all incompressible metal that the screws are tightening against. If anything between the bottom metal and the action is compressible (i.e. something not metal and/or something not specifically designed to compressively loaded) then the torque on the action screws becomes a very finicky variable.
Maybe I misunderstand the point of pillars, but to me they are so that when the action screws are tight it is all incompressible metal that the screws are tightening against. If anything between the bottom metal and the action is compressible (i.e. something not metal and/or something not specifically designed to compressively loaded) then the torque on the action screws becomes a very finicky variable.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure aluminum bedding blocks go all the way through to the floor plate.
Shep
Shep
