What to use, whidden vs hornady vs redding vs forster vs "?" dies

[Alibiiv]

Presently building a .270 Ackley Improved. Building the rifle on a Ruger 77 ts, 26 in (1-8) Lilja barrel, pillar bedding, some trigger work. I'll be doing some 300-500 yard deer/antelope hunting with the rifle, plus play with it at the range for performance out to 300 yards. I'm indecisive about what die set to go with to get the best performance? I'm planning on Whidden hydroform dies, however not decided on anything else for the reloading dies. Should I purchase a match set or custom set. Hornady seems to make a nice match die set, however Redding, who I have no experience with, is also supposed to make a good set of dies also.There are so many die companies out there to choose from. I'm not 100% sure about what dies will do the best job for what I intend to do. Would like come comments/input to make the right choice the first time and not reinvent the wheel. Thanks

 

[cape cove]

I don't believe you would be making a mistake with any of the die makers you mentioned for work out to 300 yds. I have used all except the Whidden and get good results although I am partial to Forster. According to what I have read on other sites Whidden is also a great die. In any case I believe you will need custom dies if your cartridge is the 270 AI then all should be do a great job. If it were a standard cartridge I would recommend a Redding body die to size the body and bump the shoulder back and a Lee collet die to do your neck. This really cuts down on case neck run-out. The seating die that comes with the collet die set is a dead length bullet seater which I find is the best seater that comes with standard die set. You may even be able to use a 270 Win collet die set for your 270AI. I use my 25/06 collet die to size the necks of my 257 Weatherby mag and it works great. This would have to be checked out.

 

[Alibiiv]

I don't believe you would be making a mistake with any of the die makers you mentioned for work out to 300 yds. I have used all except the Whidden and get good results although I am partial to Forster. According to what I have read on other sites Whidden is also a great die. In any case I believe you will need custom dies if your cartridge is the 270 AI then all should be do a great job. If it were a standard cartridge I would recommend a Redding body die to size the body and bump the shoulder back and a Lee collet die to do your neck. This really cuts down on case neck run-out. The seating die that comes with the collet die set is a dead length bullet seater which I find is the best seater that comes with standard die set. You may even be able to use a 270 Win collet die set for your 270AI. I use my 25/06 collet die to size the necks of my 257 Weatherby mag and it works great. This would have to be checked out.

Hello cape cove thank you for your reply, it is much appreciated. My thoughts are along the same as yours are. I'm new to the wildcat reloading and had a concern that one particular manufacturer might be better than another for whatever reason. As I wrote in the original posting, "I don't want to reinvent the wheel," I'm thinking Whidden for the hydroform die and then Hornady custom match set for the reloading dies. I really haven't checked into what Forster has to offer, will have to do that.

 

[BountyHunter]

Who made the reamer? Send a reamer print to the die companies and see if their die will match up with your chamber. Your gunsmith can give you a copy if you do not have it.

However, that is the first part of wildcatting figuring out the chamber and reamer specs BEFORE you chamber.

You need to match the dies to the chamber, not who has the best looking die or one you like, especially with a wildcat!!!!

For example, PTG makes reamers for Redding dies. So if you use a standard PTG reamer, redding dies will normally work.

 

[bigedp51]

I prefer the Forster full length benchrest dies with the high mounted floating expander. The expander enters the case neck while it is still held and centered in the neck of the die.

That being said you can remove the expander from any non-bushing full length die and your cases will be as concentric as they ever will be. Then just use a expander die on the necks and also have very little if any neck runout added by expanding the case necks.

Also Hornady One Shot case lube is a "dry" film case lube that does not need to be removed. And when you spray the cases the inside of the case necks will also be coated.

 

[243winxb]

Redding type S Fl sizing bushing die. Send them 3 fired brass from your rifle. Get a price quote first.

 

[Deviant]

Presently building a .270 Ackley Improved. Building the rifle on a Ruger 77 ts, 26 in (1-8) Lilja barrel, pillar bedding, some trigger work. I'll be doing some 300-500 yard deer/antelope hunting with the rifle, plus play with it at the range for performance out to 300 yards. I'm indecisive about what die set to go with to get the best performance? I'm planning on Whidden hydroform dies, however not decided on anything else for the reloading dies. Should I purchase a match set or custom set. Hornady seems to make a nice match die set, however Redding, who I have no experience with, is also supposed to make a good set of dies also.There are so many die companies out there to choose from. I'm not 100% sure about what dies will do the best job for what I intend to do. Would like come comments/input to make the right choice the first time and not reinvent the wheel. Thanks

If you send Whidden 3 pieces of fired brass they will make you a custom die for your chamber. Whidden dies are top notch. I have all brands you mentioned but Whidden gets my vote.

 

[Alibiiv]

Who made the reamer? Send a reamer print to the die companies and see if their die will match up with your chamber. Your gunsmith can give you a copy if you do not have it.

However, that is the first part of wildcatting figuring out the chamber and reamer specs BEFORE you chamber.

You need to match the dies to the chamber, not who has the best looking die or one you like, especially with a wildcat!!!!

For example, PTG makes reamers for Redding dies. So if you use a standard PTG reamer, redding dies will normally work.

I'm not sure who made the reamer, however the gunsmith, Olson Gunsmithing, told me that he would send a blueprint copy of the reamer if I wanted one. I'd like to get the die making process going, Whidden told me that there is a 2-3 month waiting period for the hydro forming dies. Whidden is asking for 3 fired casings to be sent to them to make the dies, however a blueprint of the reamer will also work. I was going to wait until I was able to shoot my rifle when I get it back from the gunsmith, however it takes 2 months to get a barrel from Lilja. I'm not expecting this rifle back until April or May, then a 2-3 month waiting period for the hydro form dies and then another waiting period to get the actual die set made for full length sizing, it's going to be next Thanksgiving before I can actually get down to serious shooting. This build started taking life last June or July. The donor rifle is a Ruger 77, round top, tang safety. First encounter was finding someone who was familiar with, who was good working with Rugers and who wanted to build the rifle for me. Some smiths flat out told me that I was making a mistake going with the Ruger, others simply wanted to sell me a custom or blueprinted Remington action, others told me that they get a whole lot more money to do the build because Rugers required special tooling to work on them. After some time a forum member (FEENIX) told me about Olson Gunsmithing in Montana. I called Dennis and he told me that he really likes working on the Ruger 77ts and has done many builds on them. I told him what I was looking for, he recommended Lilja barrels, I was very happy with the suggestion and now he is building my rifle. Thank you for your reply.

 

[Sflutes]

I like the Redding micrometer better than the Forster but i think it's a Ford vs Chevy thing. One or the other will give you satisfaction. I've got both.

 

[BountyHunter]

I'm not sure who made the reamer, however the gunsmith, Olson Gunsmithing, told me that he would send a blueprint copy of the reamer if I wanted one. I'd like to get the die making process going, Whidden told me that there is a 2-3 month waiting period for the hydro forming dies. Whidden is asking for 3 fired casings to be sent to them to make the dies, however a blueprint of the reamer will also work. I was going to wait until I was able to shoot my rifle when I get it back from the gunsmith, however it takes 2 months to get a barrel from Lilja. I'm not expecting this rifle back until April or May, then a 2-3 month waiting period for the hydro form dies and then another waiting period to get the actual die set made for full length sizing, it's going to be next Thanksgiving before I can actually get down to serious shooting. This build started taking life last June or July. The donor rifle is a Ruger 77, round top, tang safety. First encounter was finding someone who was familiar with, who was good working with Rugers and who wanted to build the rifle for me. Some smiths flat out told me that I was making a mistake going with the Ruger, others simply wanted to sell me a custom or blueprinted Remington action, others told me that they get a whole lot more money to do the build because Rugers required special tooling to work on them. After some time a forum member (FEENIX) told me about Olson Gunsmithing in Montana. I called Dennis and he told me that he really likes working on the Ruger 77ts and has done many builds on them. I told him what I was looking for, he recommended Lilja barrels, I was very happy with the suggestion and now he is building my rifle. Thank you for your reply.

Get the reamer print first!!

Forget names of dies as people are advocating. In wildcats, fit comes first, not the name. Find out which die will work with your chamber THEN go with that die. I would start with Whidden. I will say this on the hydro forming dies having had a couple. IMO they still do not negate the need for final fireforming, so go ahead and fireform to start with. Saves time and money. Just seat the bullet long where it touches and is a slight tight chambering with the bullet into the rifling. Little lube on case shoulders and fireform. It helps if you have a fireform barrel IF you are worried about barrel life. If your old barrel is 270, just have the smith chamber it also.

 

[Alibiiv]

Get the reamer print first!!

Forget names of dies as people are advocating. In wildcats, fit comes first, not the name. Find out which die will work with your chamber THEN go with that die. I would start with Whidden. I will say this on the hydro forming dies having had a couple. IMO they still do not negate the need for final fireforming, so go ahead and fireform to start with. Saves time and money. Just seat the bullet long where it touches and is a slight tight chambering with the bullet into the rifling. Little lube on case shoulders and fireform. It helps if you have a fireform barrel IF you are worried about barrel life. If your old barrel is 270, just have the smith chamber it also.

Thanks for that input. I am thinking along those lines as well. It would be nice to get the dies up and going, however I'm more interested in getting a proper chamber/fit to my rifle. I've read about some real nightmares on this forum where someone will get a build and then have all kinds of headspace problems. Recently I was trying to help a guy out on the forum who purchased a used, unfired custom build, however it was in .280 Ackley Improved and he was having all kind of FTF issues. I believe that he had the SAAMI dies and he had an Traditional chambering. He was dealing with the .014 thousandths issue between the cartridges. I'm thinking that if I can send three fireformed casings, plus a copy of the blueprint from the gunsmith, I ought to get the proper fit for my chamber. This gunsmith is building two, identical Ruger 77ts, .270AI rifles for me, one for my son and one for me. He told me that he would make both rifle chamberings the same. I suspect that the chambers will both be identical as he's using the same reamer for both chamberings.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I would go with Forester. For $12 additionally they will hone the neck to the correct size so no expander is necessary. My cases come out of the die with zero run out.

 

[Alibiiv]

I would go with Forester. For $12 additionally they will hone the neck to the correct size so no expander is necessary. My cases come out of the die with zero run out.

Just curious about what you use or do to maintain neck tension consistency. Do you always have to use the same brand/name brass? Do you use a tool like the Sinclair neck expander tool? I did see the video in this posting.

 

[LeddSlinger]

I've used them all.

Redding is nice but you can get some lemons with bad manufacturing lately. Not always a guarantee.

Forster dies are solid and have always worked well for me.

You couldnt "give" me another set of Hornady dies. I dont care how much you begged me to take them. Junk. I would use LEE before I touched another Hornady die.

Whidden is by far the best, especially when doing a custom chamber rifle. You can send them a print of your reamer and they will deliver a die set that matches your specific chamber dimensions and they cost about the same as a Redding type S set. Whidden's neck bushings are much higher quality as well. Plus he makes custom expander ball sets to adjust neck tension internally rather than externally with a bushing. I prefer the expander balls as the ensure excellent concentricity on the inside diameter of the case neck.

Now what I do. I purchase a Wilson arbor style micrometer seating die 'blank' in the appropriate bullet diameter. Then have the seater blank built with my barrel chamber reamer so it is an exact match. Finally, I send John Whidden fired cases or a print of my reamer to get a perfectly matched FL bushing sizer die and add the appropriate bushings and expander ball set. Doesn't get much better than that