Wanting to build a rifle for F-Class

[rdm]

I'm wanting to improve my shooting at longer distance and think f/tr looks like a safe, fun way to do it.

I have a Winchester Stealth in 22-250. It is in the H-S Precision stock. My thinking is to rebarrel to .308 Win with a Krieger barrel, skim bed the stock, put a Leupy 6.5-20 on it and shoot. Option #2 would be to pillar bed in a Manners GAT stock and go with a box magazine. Oh, this rig will probably be a varmint/ hunting rig also.

Question #1: Is there a bullet/powder combo that you recommend? If so what twist are you shooting?

Question #2: What barrel contour would you recommend?

Question #3: How long does the barrel need to be? I'm leaning toward 24".

Question #4: What do you think makes a good f/tr stock? Since I would be shooting off a bipod, I don't think a wide fore-end is needed. Can't track in bags off a bipod. Is an adjustable LOP/comb preferred?


As I stated, I'm mainly doing this to improve my marksmanship at distances over what I regularly shoot. I want to have fun and improve, but I want to be able to compete as I gain experience also.

 

[BountyHunter]

If you are going to shoot the FTR class with a 308, you are limited to 18.8 lbs with bipod. FTRclass is only 308 and 223 with bipods. The Open class has all the race guns. Top end guys are using 6.5-284 and others are using a 6mm of some type (Dasher, BRX, BRDS, or 6x47). I would suggest stayin in the FTR class. You will learn to shoot in the wind with a 308 at 1000 for sure.

In FTR, no need for the "F class" style stock and in factr harder to mount a bipod on. Shoot whatever stock you want with a 6-9" swivel bipod with pod lock. Personally do not think adj cheek is necesarry but up to your tastes and fit . The A5 type seems to work well from Manners, Joel Russo (Here) or something similar. IMO for the FTR class, just stay with the stock you have and do a rebarrel and trigger. Might add the Shawn Carlocks Defensive Edge cheekpiece.

barrel - 24-28 inches. Pick a contour/length to give you the desired weight and handling characteristics for the hunting you want as this is not a "dedicated FTR" gun. Twist 1-11.

I have the M24 contour and little too heavy for my tastes but it is on a USMC return stock, kind of fits the model.

I would lean towards something a little lighter such as PA taper, LV etc.

Load info Bullet- 178 AMAX or 175 SMK Case- Laua and Win Powder- Varget (44-45 gr), RL15 and 4064 Primer BR2, WLR and 210

Shoot for 2600-2650 MV

Bases- Will need a 20 MOA base as it will take 37-40 MOA to get to 1000

Scope- Right now for the money, the best is the Sightron S3 LR either the 6-24 (100 MOA) or 8-32 (70 MOA) both under $800 from Larry Scott on 6mmbr.com. Optics as good as if not better than NF, lots of elevation, lifetime warranty and clicks almost as good as NF.

You can use a rear bag or shoot off a soft bag.

Midway has shooting mats on sale, you will want one!

good shootin

BH

 

[blipelt]

The 6X47lapua has been very successful around here in ND for f-class. 105 to 115 sent out a 28inch tube at 3000-3100fps. It is also not uncommon to have 10-30mph winds we are shooting in.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/my-first-official-1000yd-f-class-competition-42098/ Liz is shooting a 6X47lapua


Brent

 

[Nodak7mm]

+1 on Joel Russo as BountyHunter had mentioned. Great guy to work with.

Nodak

 

[Buffalobob]

You will want a cheek piece as your neck will get tired towards the end of the day.

You will need to decide on the chamber reamer. A special match chamber will set the throat for the 175 grain bullets. It is not so tight that you have to turn brass and yet it still is a small chamber and throat. The 175 SMK is fine for shooting animals- (see picture).

Definitely would want a Joel Russo stock if I was going to replace the stock.

While the 308 does not get big benefits from long barrels it definitely can be hurt by short barrels. Unless you really can't stand it then 28 is a good lenght for F-class.

The Luepold V3 is a proven performer and 20 power is just right

An option to think about is the Savage FTR rifle.

 

[rdm]

Thanks for the help. Great info. Let me pick your brains some more.

I'm really leaning toward a Krieger heavy target contour (#9 I believe), stainless, 26", with 11" twist per the advice I've been given here. I'll be sure to ask for it to be cut with a match chamber. I will have the reciever and bolt trued. All by Krieger if possible. Around $850.

I was digging through a spare parts drawer at the house and found a Tubbs 4-way adjustable buttplate I forgot I even had. I'll probably cut down the H-S varmint stock and install the buttplate and a cheekpiece I found on desert warrior products website. I will have to widen the barrel channel for that contour and skim bed the barrelled action. I'll only have to buy the cheekrest and some bedding compound going this way. So for around $70 I get the joy of butchering and rebuilding a perfectly good H-S Precision varmint stock.

Top it all with a Leupold custom shop VX3 long range 6.5-20x40 with TMR reticle and M1 turrets in badger base and burris XTR 30mm rings. I have this set up on my 7mm STW and really love the TMR. Around $1200.

I'll try different reloads with 175-180 SMK, A-Max, and Bergers in front of RL15 and Varget. I have a brick or 2 of Fed 210's to set them off.

I have a Harris 9"-13" swivel bipod with leg notches and podlock. Is this to tall for F-class?

Still need to snag a shooting mat though.

What trigger would recommend for the M70 short action?
Does this sound like a good place to start or just a mess?
Am I missing or leaving out anything?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to get it right and believe in the "Buy Once, Cry Once" philosophy.

Again Thanks to all who replied.

 

[Buffalobob]

As mentioned by BH, you will need a 20 MOA base.

You will also need a bag or backpack for your gear.

As far as the trigger I do not know what fits a M70 but you really need a smooth consistent trigger.

 

[canderson]

I believe that Jewell makes a trigger for the M70. After getting over the buy in price, you will love the trigger. Just remember when you shoot to have fun. I took a friend of mine with me to a 1000 yard match. He had bought a Savage F class 6.5x284 and shot it maybe 100 shots. That day he gave me a good thrashing. Get something and start shooting the competitions. Your desires will take you from there.

 

[milanuk]

If'n it were me...

I'd find a lighter (weight) profile if you can. That one weighs more @ 26" than a medium Palma does @ 30" - and what does it gain you? Nada. That weight could be put to better use for something like more options for a bipod beyond a Harris or GG&G (both pretty good anyways), and if you're using it for hunting, no point in lugging that weight around if you don't have to. Those extra inches of barrel length are essentially 'free' muzzle velocity. Not much, but every little bit counts if you intend to shoot 1k. Yes, I know there are people who claim to be able to shoot 168s @ 1k from a 20" LTR - just never seen them on the firing line at any match I've ben to. 26" should be fine - 600yds and in you'll never know the difference. 1k - the wind is going to be troublesome for anybody, regardless of what barrel they have

I wouldn't get *too* hung up on the chamber/throating - the .308 Winchester is so forgiving in this regard its not even funny. And a 'match' chamber for a .308 is still fairly 'sloppy' compared to a no-turn chamber in other calibers. There is a 'match' chamber floating about that is basically a WTC 95 Palma reamer (normally used for very short chambers with a S155MK (old style)) but throated for a 175gr SMK (or Lapua 155 Scenar). Actually turns out to be a very versatile configuration - excellent accuracy with magazine length ammo, but not so short of a throat as to preclude experimenting with heavier bullets, and not so long as to make shooting lighter bullets difficult.

Twist rate... I'd go 1-12" myself - it'll spin 190's easily, shoot 175s like a house-afire, and stuff 155s into the X-ring all day long. Then again, so will an 11, or a 10. I just tend towards the slower twist that will get the job done if possible.

The stock you have will probably be just fine - but add that adjustable cheek piece asap. Go to Karsten's Custom Camo if you need one - best $65 on gun parts I've spent. I have several of them, and several other shooters on the U.S. F/TR team use them as well. If you don't have a thumbwheel cheekpiece, these are the next best thing IMHO.

Good luck,

Monte

 

[Buffalobob]

A rifle that has its balance point too far forward will be tippy and twitchy on the rear bag. To cure such a rifle you have to add about a pound of weight to the rear stock for every inch you wish to move the balance point. It then will feel and react like a dumb bell with weight on each end and light in the middle. That is not a problem for a target rifle but it is really awkward for hunting. So if you wish to hunt with it occasionally, as I do mine then, ease up on the barrel weight just a smidgen as Monte suggests.



Humorous but true

Yes, I know there are people who claim to be able to shoot 168s @ 1k from a 20" LTR - just never seen them on the firing line at any match

 

[rdm]

After thinking about it I think I'll give the light target contour a try. Krieger lists a weight of 5.5#'s for their #7 target contour. I already have two 14+# rifles anyway.

My 7mmRM:

and my 7mmSTW:

 

[rdm]

This is the Stealth I will be building on:

and a mock up with the tubbs buttplate:

 

[X3MHunter]

Try 155 Lapua Scenars (.508 BC), Lapua Cases, CCI-BR2 Primers and Varget. That seems to get the job done everytime!
Good luck on your new rifle!

 

[rdm]

x3m, that is exactly what i've been trying to gather up to handload with.

Varget and BR2's are hard find though.

Do you know anything about the 155gr Sierra palma matchkings? Was thinking about trying them but haven't found much info on them. Sierra claims a b.c. of .504.