stripped allen screw removal

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Truc, Apr 10, 2012.

  1. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    Really bummed just got my rifle bedded and went to remove the bases to install a 20 MOA base and my new Vortek scope when the last screw stripped. Does anyone know how to remove an allen screw on a base that the wrench slips? Apparently I used too much blue loktite.
     
  2. Centxshooter

    Centxshooter Well-Known Member

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    I used JBweld the last time i did something liike this. Put a little on the wrench and let it set 24hrs. I also used heat to help get it started.
     

  3. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    when yo say heat, do you mean heat gun heat or more?
    Thanks
     
  4. Centxshooter

    Centxshooter Well-Known Member

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    I used a heat gun to help loosen the locktite. Hopefully some more ideas out there since I am sure I have not stripped my last screw :)
     
  5. Aldon

    Aldon Well-Known Member

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    I had a set of bases that similarly seemed permanently destined to stay on the rifle for same reason. One of the smiths on here suggested I carefully drill the top off the hold down screws. Do not get too carried away with drill. Once the heads are off, and you remove the base, I used the needle nose vice grip pliers to turn the screws out. Heat gun to soften the locktight may be good just do not over heat the metal.
     
  6. Centxshooter

    Centxshooter Well-Known Member

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  7. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    Hold on now. Before you try anything drastic try this:
    1- tighten down your other screws again to put down pressure on the base. This takes SOME pressure off of the one that's stripped.

    2- use a soldering gun to heat a specific spot (the screw head for example) instead if a "torch" or soldering flame.

    This should work.
    IF it doesn't, repeat the steps but ADD the step with j.b. weld on an Allen wrench you intend to use only once.

    If these both fail, TAKE IT TO A SMITH who has a drill press, & a way to clamp everything in level. If you try this step with a screw gun your playing Russian roulette, & eventually, when you do take it to your smith, after royally messing it up, he will be very unhappy with the pile of $#!? you lay on the counter to say the least.

    These DIY methods are proven to work & save $. BUT to truly save $ stop BEFORE you mess it up. You'll be $ ahead by doing so.
     
  8. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    Get a set of the little different sized Torx bits that fit in a changable screwdriver. Find the bit that it just a wee bit to large. Then tap... I said "tap" it into the stripped allen head. Once you have it in use some heat to soften the locktite and then spin it out.

    Jeff
     
  9. Red hunter

    Red hunter Well-Known Member

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    If the torx bit wont get it I usually go to a metric allen set that is a little larger with some heat.
     
  10. etisll40

    etisll40 Well-Known Member

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    I like the slightly oversized bit method, and carefully tap it in to get a nice fit. Probably first use some kind of vise to hold the gun. I really good hair dryer seems to be best for heating it up. I use one on my graphite shafted golf clubs so as not to burn anything. The shaft come right out.
     
  11. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    I used to get about two dozen jobs like this a year at work. Two little tricks I used might help. Measure the allen wrench across the flats to see if there is a metric wrench (or vise versa) that is a few thousandths bigger. Heat the screw head with a soldering iron, and jam the wrench into the female hex. I have had them where I used shim stock as well, but that dosn't work as well. If you have to drill the bolt head off, use a tap drill size for the screw thread. If by chance you have a set of left hand drills and the soldering iron your probably home free. It takes about 230 degrees to melt the loctite, so the iron is plenty good enough. And lastly don't use Loctite 242 on small screws like that; no matter who says it's OK!
    gary
     
  12. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys thanks a lot. I took Win Mag's advice and stopped an thought about it for two days and took it up to a gunsmith who had just bedded it and he got it out for me and didn't charge me. Did not ask him how he got it out but was talking about drilling and retapping.
    Now my new Vortek Viper 5X15 HS is mounted and looks good, just waiting on those Matrix 165 VLD's to show up. By the way this is a 270 WSM w/ a 26" Hart Barrel. It does not have a tactical stock just a clean Walnut stock that is pillar bedded.
    Thanks again!!!!
     
  13. silvertip-co

    silvertip-co Well-Known Member

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    When you drill it use a LH drill bit and go easy. Often times just the heat of drilling will back a screw out. Often what will happen as you drill with the proper size LH drill bit is you will drill off the screw head and then you can remove the base then just back out the remainder of the screw. Good luck and go slow.
     
  14. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    When dilling out a socket head cap screw thru the head use an old drill bit that's been recound many times to where it's a little on the short side. Then take the drill bit to the grinder an increase the relief to a little more than double. It will help the drill bit snag into the metal. Also run the drill at a fairly low speed. 150 rpm is about right. Problem here is that your using pretty small drills, and they'll snap off easy. Probably better off just drill off the bolt head with a tap drill. I had a small pencil torch like the ones electricians use for circut board work. Have a buddy heat the bolt head up while you are drilling it out. Never use a regular torch! I have noticed over the years that the bolt quality used in the ring and base kits has been on a steady down hill slide. Must be sourcing them to China.
    gary