I don't see any mention of using a sonic cleaner. I use this before sizing, and dry tumble with corn cob media after trimming ect.
I use this method as well.
I don't see any mention of using a sonic cleaner. I use this before sizing, and dry tumble with corn cob media after trimming ect.
I am intrigued about the Imperial Dry Neck lube idea. Have you loaded any and let them sit for a few months then fired them? If so how did they chrono? Any change in the ES?Many people complain about it peening the neck. Some have even shown pictures of it. I SS clean mine after every firing. I also anneal after every firing. As far as the peening I believe that comes from tumbling them too long. As to the clean neck I use Imperial Dry Neck Lube (graphite) to seat and prevent a cold weld. They also seat a lot easier with the Imperial neck lube. You will find a lot of theories and conclusions. To me as with all do what you feel works best for you. One person will say do it another will say don't . None of the theories have been proven to me and I like clean brass. My info and opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it .
Certainly Not challenging your results, and I'm sure that many many times your scenario has been repeated, without any issues at all. But there is still that possibility. Because I have experienced it, I am a bit leery aboutI shot ammo that had been loaded and stored for a year in a warm and dry environment that I would not normally have kept for a registered match. I ended using when I came back to the US for a competition in an approved match @ 500 yards at Camp Atterbury. That is the ammo that I shot a 200-20 X Iron sight and prone setting that range record , had it been a registered match it would have been a US National record . That brass was SS tumbled before loading over 6-12 months before shooting . And yes those had been fired cases , never annealed ,,,.
I wish that guys would stop trying to deny that cold welding exist. Just because you have not had it happen or did not recognize it does not mean that it does not happen. It in fact does and I have experienced it many times in the last 51 years I have been reloading. I wonder how often a stray shot or one out of the group that is that annoying flyer is in fact a cold welded case and bullet.
Yes 60K psi of pressure can break a cold weld easily but it will have a different point of impact.
There are lots of conditions that cause it and so it is hard to put your finger on. The worse case is where not all the cases and bullets are cold welded the same. As Oldtime experienced. A good way to test is to seat your last years loads a little deeper and if you have a pop or noticed resistance to moving the bullet then you have cold weld.
If you are shooting ammo that has been loaded for a while and get erratic performance then check for cold weld by trying to seat the bullets a couple thou deeper and then test again.
When I started Moly coating bullets my cold welding stopped. There are so many variables to cause this condition. Brass composition, type of bullet jacket, type of lube in neck, environment the ammo is stored in, How long in storage. What happens to the lube in the neck if organic it can turn into gunk or glue with time in hot or humid environment. I could go on and on but you get the picture.
Now I do not use Moly as much as I used to, not sure why, got lazy I guess. Moly does not make a bullet more accurate nor faster, it does allow longer strings before cleaning and it does keep the barrel cooler during long strings both of which are good things and oh yea it also prevents cold welding.
Thank you all for sharing yoOne of the many problems with
Thank you all for sharing your experiences, knowledge, and opinions.
I think I will stick to vibrating in walnut husks after sizing and brushing the inside of the neck before charging.
Larry
ur experiences, knowledge, and opinions.
I think I will stick to vibrating in walnut husks after sizing and brushing the inside of the neck before charging.
Larry
I wish that guys would stop trying to deny that cold welding exist. Just because you have not had it happen or did not recognize it does not mean that it does not happen. It in fact does and I have experienced it many times in the last 51 years I have been reloading. I wonder how often a stray shot or one out of the group that is that annoying flyer is in fact a cold welded case and bullet.
Yes 60K psi of pressure can break a cold weld easily but it will have a different point of impact.
There are lots of conditions that cause it and so it is hard to put your finger on. The worse case is where not all the cases and bullets are cold welded the same. As Oldtime experienced. A good way to test is to seat your last years loads a little deeper and if you have a pop or noticed resistance to moving the bullet then you have cold weld.
If you are shooting ammo that has been loaded for a while and get erratic performance then check for cold weld by trying to seat the bullets a couple thou deeper and then test again.
When I started Moly coating bullets my cold welding stopped. There are so many variables to cause this condition. Brass composition, type of bullet jacket, type of lube in neck, environment the ammo is stored in, How long in storage. What happens to the lube in the neck if organic it can turn into gunk or glue with time in hot or humid environment. I could go on and on but you get the picture.
Now I do not use Moly as much as I used to, not sure why, got lazy I guess. Moly does not make a bullet more accurate nor faster, it does allow longer strings before cleaning and it does keep the barrel cooler during long strings both of which are good things and oh yea it also prevents cold welding.
I do almost the sameI don't see any mention of using a sonic cleaner. I use this before sizing, and dry tumble with corn cob media after trimming ect.
Hard to argue with someone of your proven experience.One of the problems with walnut hulls is you'll need a polishing compound to sine and clean the brass . That polish stays on the case and that goes down the barrel ! This is why I went SS liquid it leaves the brass clean and all carbon is removed , AND if you use the right sizing lube that problem is taken care of as well. . Yes on rifle case you will get some peening of the mouth . I rectify that by trimming after tumbling and I chamfer on my late with the tool in the lathe , it is really fast .