Savage Shadow 300 WM trouble

Hey guys - just looking for some thoughts here. Have a Savage Storm in 300 WM. This model has a pretty light weight barrel. It seems to be shooting a little erratic. Switched scopes, still goofy. Another guy at the range shot it, same deal. Action is tights. (55 in/lbs front and rear) Switched for known good glass from another gun. Pic rail and rings are torqued to spec and loctited. Load - Peterson Long brass, Berger 205 Hybrid, 77.5 H1000. Getting great ES. When I start my shooting session - I'll get 1.5" groups - then as I try different seating depths, neck tension, etc to see if I can tighten things up, the groups just go to heck. Giving maybe 10 minutes between shots. Groups are opening up to 3"-6" and POI shifts at 100 yds.

This is thin, lightweight barrel - only thing I can figure is I have to wait longer between shots. Is that reasonable? Should I be looking at something else?

Pics added to ahow typical first group and example of exact same load after trying to evaluate alternatives. Not real confidence inspiring in underlying system.
This article might help. I think you need to do the 3 screw tune. https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/
 
This article might help. I think you need to do the 3 screw tune. https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/
Seems promising...But with 2 screws - I know for a fact something funny is going on at least in the action with the bolt binding depending on how much torque I put on the screws. I have a target action and it's a bunch stiffer than this thing...and it shows that much sensitivity. (Target action has a solid bottom.)
 
Seems promising...But with 2 screws - I know for a fact something funny is going on at least in the action with the bolt binding depending on how much torque I put on the screws. I have a target action and it's a bunch stiffer than this thing...and it shows that much sensitivity. (Target action has a solid bottom.)
Do you have a detachable mag? If so they have a video on Savage's website showing three screws.

 
In my opinion, tuning with the action screws is complete bunch of hogwash. If that is affecting your tune that much, your bedding is JUNK and needs to be bedded properly. It will accomplish nothing but you wasting ammo, time and money. Even if you could get it tuned in today with that screw method, it won't be the same tomorrow or the next day. Your action is binding because what it is sitting on isn't even anywhere close to matching the bottom of the action. My suggestion is to do it right and do a bedding job or have it done..........or you can just keep tinkering and waste time & money. The choice is yours.
 
Since Stan Pete is, or was the Captain of Savage's National Championship F-TR Team I'd be more apt to follow his advise. It doesn't cost anything to follow his instructions.
 
Seems promising...But with 2 screws - I know for a fact something funny is going on at least in the action with the bolt binding depending on how much torque I put on the screws. I have a target action and it's a bunch stiffer than this thing...and it shows that much sensitivity. (Target action has a solid bottom.)

The article addresses tuning 2 screw Savages as well.
 
And I'll bet next you're going to tell me that NONE of his target rifles have a bedding job either, right?
LOL sheesh it's an article that Stan Pete wrote on tuning actions lol. Do you have more knowledge of Savage rifles than him? I'm sure he finds it useful otherwise he wouldn't advocate it. And he could bed his rifles. I generally try the easy things first before moving on to the more difficult and costly fixes. And since the OP's rifle shot better before there is no harm in trying this first.
 
LOL sheesh it's an article that Stan Pete wrote on tuning actions lol. Do you have more knowledge of Savage rifles than him? I'm sure he finds it useful otherwise he wouldn't advocate it. And he could bed his rifles. I generally try the easy things first before moving on to the more difficult and costly fixes. And since the OP's rifle shot better before there is no harm in trying this first.
I'm not trying to argue with you. If that's what the original poster wants to spend his time and money on, then who am I to tell him different? But I will tell you this.....ammo alone costs way more then he'd spend in materials to do a decent skim bedding job.....especially with a cartridge like a 300 WM.
 
I'm not trying to argue with you. If that's what the original poster wants to spend his time and money on, then who am I to tell him different? But I will tell you this.....ammo alone costs way more then he'd spend in materials to do a decent skim bedding job.....especially with a cartridge like a 300 WM.
That depends on if he can do the bedding job himself. In either case he'll still have to test fire after the bedding job or tuning the action screws.
 
And if you read that article over on Shooters forum, you'll see that the rifle was previously pillar AND epoxy bedded. It was also a custom barrel chambered in 6BR Norma. It wasn't a bone stock out of the box 300 WM rifle......just saying. I just gave my professional opinion...sorry if you don't like it.
 
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Have you tried just going back to off the shelf loads, say like federal premium? Just to make sure it's not a part of your reloading tools?
 
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