ruger no1

[EastHunter]

Did some one have try ruger no1 as a base for long range hunting rig?

Sins im normaly a bow hunter im use to 1 shot only, wont mind having one shot in a rifle!!

Just wondering if it something y should look that way some day or just forget about it...

 

[benchracer]

I would not consider a Ruger #1 to be a particularly suitable long range rifle. Ruger #1's inherently have design features that work against accuracy and have a reputation for being temperamental and/or finicky when it comes to getting and maintaining top accuracy. In addition, building a long range rifle frequently requires an aftermarket match grade barrel. I am not aware of any barrel maker who will install their barrel on a Ruger #1 at the factory. There are smiths who will do the job, but not many of them.

Having said all of that, I don't think it would be impossible to build a long range rifle on a #1. I think that it could be done provided that one was willing to go to the expense and frustration that it would likely require to get there. If you are going to build on the #1 platform, I would start with a #1V. I would consider the current offerings in 6.5 Creedmore and 25-06 to be the most suitable available chamberings for long range use.

If you decide to take on a project like this, it would most certainly make for a unique and interesting rifle.

 

[EastHunter]

Thank for the tip benchracer.

That explain me why i did not see any rig built on ruger no1.

 

[lazylabs]

pm sent

 

[James H]

I built a 338 Lapua on a Ruger No 1. I agree that it isn't the best choice for a long range rig. They can be built very accurate but as said above can be very temperamental and it is much easier to get a bolt gun to shoot well. I used a PacNor Sendero contour barrel and just modified the factory scope base to fit. It's been some time since I shot it so I don't recall the exact groups it is capable of but I have confidence in it to at least 1000 yards.

James

 

[TOM H]

Thank for the tip benchracer.

That explain me why i did not see any rig built on ruger no1.

For many years I used a factory Ruger #1 7mag as my deer/elk rifle. Later I had it rebarreled to a 30-338mag (338mag case neck to 30 cal) I used a #4 Fluted SS barrel 26" long, forend was bedded and trigger adjusted by gunsmith. Were I hunt deer/elk 500/600yd be a long shot and that rifle was well suited for that yardage plus it is a very accurate rifle.

I also have a factory #1 300Wby and I switch my rifles around so I don't hunt as much with the #1's as I used to.

I have acouple #1's that I use varmit shooting one build on a Ruger 1V it's a tight neck 22BR other one is a Ruger 1B tight neck 6ppc kept same barrel profile as factory both have after market set triggers and forend was bedded.

I enjoy shooting the #1 same as I do a bolt rifles. I agree there alot better actions to build than a #1.

 

[BigSkyGP]

I think the biggest problem would be relieving the breach end of the barrel for the extractor/ejector, and finding a GS to do that.

I think the action is fine, it's solid. It is possible to float the fore-end. I like the fact that the action is short enough you can add a few inches to the barrel, and still be shorter than a 26" barreled long action.

I don't know about the trigger work, I like my No. 1's trigger fine. Sure mine is picky about the loads. I've got three tack driver's out of my 300WM factory barrel. Would it win matches? Probably not, I'd take it out past 600yds in a heart beat. It's the No.1 that I hunt with, elk, deer, antelope, and yotes.

 

[benchracer]

I have a Ruger #1A in 7x57. It came from the factory with very nice wood on it. It is a beautiful rifle, its balance and handling is akin to that of a quality double barreled shotgun, and it is an absolute joy to carry afield. However, it shoots patterns instead of groups @ 100 yards.

Because of that, I don't have enough faith in it to take it hunting. I haven't tried any of the accurizing tricks on it yet, so I am far from being willing to give up on it. I am confident that I will be able to get it to at least shoot inside 2" @ 100 yards after I tinker with it a bit. If I can at least get it to perform at that level, I would consider it to be good to about 300 yards and would not hesitate to take it afield for hunting at normal ranges.

The Ruger #1 is, IMO, a truly elegant rifle. While it may be a less than ideal long range rifle, it is still a fine rifle and deserving of some love. If you are lucky enough to have one that shoots well enough to be used confidently at 600 or 1000 yards, you have a rifle to be treasured.

 

[BigSkyGP]

I have a Ruger #1A in 7x57. It came from the factory with very nice wood on it. It is a beautiful rifle, its balance and handling is akin to that of a quality double barreled shotgun, and it is an absolute joy to carry afield. However, it shoots patterns instead of groups @ 100 yards.

Because of that, I don't have enough faith in it to take it hunting. I haven't tried any of the accurizing tricks on it yet, so I am far from being willing to give up on it. I am confident that I will be able to get it to at least shoot inside 2" @ 100 yards after I tinker with it a bit. If I can at least get it to perform at that level, I would consider it to be good to about 300 yards and would not hesitate to take it afield for hunting at normal ranges.

The Ruger #1 is, IMO, a truly elegant rifle. While it may be a less than ideal long range rifle, it is still a fine rifle and deserving of some love. If you are lucky enough to have one that shoots well enough to be used confidently at 600 or 1000 yards, you have a rifle to be treasured.

I Think most of the problems with accuracy of the No.1 come from the factory barrel, and/or barrel tension from the fore-stock. There is a fore tang, on the front of the reciever, when the fore stock screw is used to secure the stock, the fore-stock holds up the barrel.

I did find where a guy described exactly how to bed the fore stock, with clearance for the barrel, like you would find on a bolt gun. I think a guy, or GS could take it one more step, and put the 1-2" bedding from the rec to support the barrel. This way I wouldn't see much difference, from a No.1 versus a bolt action.

Your biggest issue would be mounts. Finding some one or place to make a quarter rib 20MOA picatinny rail would go a long ways I think.

 

[Nomosendero]

I just bought one in .264WM (Lipsey's), I just couldn't resist. I just hope it shoots!!

 

[Buffalobob]

If you have never had a long range rifle then a #1 is not the best thing to start with unless you already happen to own it. It is not a rifle I would recommend to an amateur who has not had a lot of experience tuning rifles and loads.

Not just any competent gunsmith knows enough to do a good job on rebarreling a #1. You need to find one who does enough to be familiar with the peculiar problems to be encountered and know what not to do.

The #1 is normally very sensitive to forearm pressure and you can try different things but that is just the way it is and you learn what you can do and what you should not do. The original versions had a very excellent adjustable trigger.

 

[EastHunter]

Thank for the help.

Has i see it im better to take a rem or a savage for the start!!!!!!!

 

[Gene]

I have had several factory #l's that would not shoot. Currently, the only Ruger 1 in my cabinet is a 1-V in .25-06, which I wanted for far out shots on antelope and deer. I had the foreend relieved to float the barrel, and a Moyers trigger installed (easy to do this yourself). Much to my dismay, it shoots well only with light bullets, mostly the 90 grain Speer. You could get a custom barrel installed, there are smiths to do this, and I may go that route also.

For smithing, you might want to call eabco: Ruger Number 1 and #3 Accessories - Hicks Harmonic Accurizer for the Ruger Number One with Keplinger Set Trigger and other Ruger #1 Accessories