Rifle rebarrel with factory take off

[Halleywood]

I'm not sure if this is the right place for this, but I want to rebarrel a Remm 700 action and was wondering if it's worth it to use a takeoff barrel in the caliber I want and have a gunsmith true the action/barrel combo.

I'm looking for an accurate rifle for LR hunting (750 yds).

This will be my first "custom" build so I'm new to this. Thanks for any help!

 

[Deleted member 46119]

It depends on how you define 'worth it' and...

The individual barrel: condition, rounds fired, throat, "break in', cold bore vs. warm bore difference.

• Take off barrels are $50 to $100 or so and of course available immediately.
• Rack barrels, prefit (in-stock, ready to ship) $200ish to around $400ish of course available immediately
• Custom, the sky is the limit.

Then there is the gunsmith fees. More for 'blanks'. My smith to install a take off or prefit charges very little. Sometimes he will do it 'while I wait'. YMMV.

Truing is an issue because if your smith chases the barrel threads, take off and prefit barrels could pose a problem. I'd specify not to chase the threads only true the face and bolt race.

I have not so far tried it. I was gonna get a 300RUM barrel as a 'spare' but it went before I saw the ad.

So...

With my smith, no truing, used take off barrel at $50 it would probably cost a total of $100 as long as I brought only the barreled action.

My Pac-Nor barrels cost more than the original rifle but shoot very well.

How do you define 'worth it'

 

[Halleywood]

jfseaman,
Thanks for the reply. The barrel I'm looking at is being advertised as a new barrel takeoff. It hasn't been shot at all.

My definition of 'worth it' would be could I expect good accuracy for a LR hunting rifle. I'm not in need of (but would love) 1 hole groups. Would the difference between this new takeoff barrel versus say your Pac Nor, Lilja, Shilen, Brux, etc. be the difference between 3/4" and 1/2" groups? Or could I expect to see groups cut in half or better, whatever the group size is?

I'm definitely not scared of paying for a better quality barrel and all the gunsmithing that goes along with it, but I'm looking for the cost benefit of spending the extra coin involved. I would expect the added cost to be at least $500 or better.

Also, if I'm understanding you correctly if I went with a take off (or prefit) barrel I wouldn't want the barrel trued to the action. Is it because it would cause fit issues? In my research it seems some barrel makers that do prefit barrels leave some material at the chamber end to do truing. Does that sound right?

Thanks again for your insights!

 

[Kurt]

I wouldn't waste my time or money putting a take off bbl on for the fact you are hoping it will be a shooter. Were as you get a say bartlein and your percentage is increased ten fold that it going to shoot. Look on bugholes.com they have lots of bbls in stock. Go from there have a chamber cut and everything trued and you are ready to roll.

 

[sean1]

I'm no expert at all but I've been pricing rebarreling and modifying a mauser. Looks like a shilen match grade barrel that's been hand lapped is around $250. My smith said $165 to do the work of truing the action, threading and cutting the chamber. So, about $365-400 give or take to rebarrel with a quality barrel.

If there is only $100-150 difference in a factory barrel and a quality one that you can choose the contour and legth and my budget allowed for it, I would go with a aftermarket barrel from a well know maker.

 

[roninflag]

Halley- you are much better off going with a bartlein, krieger or equivalent. a factory barrel is really about 50$ installed from factory. . a custom is 500$ ( 325 +175 or so). you do not say what caliber , rifle model or contour.

 

[Halleywood]

Thanks for all the replies!

I want to rebarrel a LH model 700 magnum action to a 7mm STW. I'm looking at doing a 26" #4-5 contour barrel with a break.

By the sounds of it I would probably be happier with an aftermarket barrel.

 

[MudRunner2005]

jfseaman,
Thanks for the reply. The barrel I'm looking at is being advertised as a new barrel takeoff. It hasn't been shot at all.

My definition of 'worth it' would be could I expect good accuracy for a LR hunting rifle. I'm not in need of (but would love) 1 hole groups. Would the difference between this new takeoff barrel versus say your Pac Nor, Lilja, Shilen, Brux, etc. be the difference between 3/4" and 1/2" groups? Or could I expect to see groups cut in half or better, whatever the group size is?

I'm definitely not scared of paying for a better quality barrel and all the gunsmithing that goes along with it, but I'm looking for the cost benefit of spending the extra coin involved. I would expect the added cost to be at least $500 or better.

Also, if I'm understanding you correctly if I went with a take off (or prefit) barrel I wouldn't want the barrel trued to the action. Is it because it would cause fit issues? In my research it seems some barrel makers that do prefit barrels leave some material at the chamber end to do truing. Does that sound right?

Thanks again for your insights!

I have no problems doing it. As a matter of fact, I'm fixing to build 2 custom rifles using take-off factory barrels.

My smith charges me $150 to true the action, true the barrel's shoulder, and reset the headspacing. $100 shipped for a take-off barrel, and $150 for truing and headspacing isn't a bad investment when the rest of the parts for your custom build are already there, bought, and paid for.

I've rebarreled with factory barrels several times now, and if the smith does his job, and if the barrels is a good barrel, then you should be driving tacks for less than the price of a custom barrel blank before any work done.

Then again, with a custom barrel, you have a much higher percentage of it being a good barrel, and you getting more accuracy.

So, there's always pros and cons to either direction you head.

 

[mrbigtexan]

For the price of the adams and bennett barrels, i wouldnt even consider a takeoff barrel. I used one on my 25-06 and absolutely love it!

 

[AZShooter]

I use takeoff barrels often. I usually rechamber with my reamer with specs that will help it perform. Not fond of factory chambers.

If I were to make a 7 STW with a Rem takeoff I'd start with a 7 Rem Mag barrel not a 7 STW. Both are offered in 26" so no issue there. The correct threads and bolt recess already exist so all that is needed is to rechamber with proper headspace.


A few rechambering jobs that have worked well for me with Rem takeoffs: 243 to 6mm-284, 7 Rem mag to 7mm/375 Ruger and 300 Win mag to 300 RUM.