Rem. 700 Sendero Accuracy

I have the same accuracy problem whit my rem700 xcr 338rum, have fired 512rounds. And accuracy is wery bad. I bought this rifle for logrange shooting and hunting. But cant use it for this.
I have sako75, tikka t3, sauer 200str, rem700sps and they all go sub-moa.

I think remington must have bad barells, so now im loocking for new barell


regards
arnt
norway
 
My Sendero in 7RM will shoot .5 MOA with the Bergers, but it took a lot of time to get the seating depth figured out.
It will not group with them jamed into the lands, it likes them .040 off the lands. With RL-22 it will how .5MOA to 500yds. I have not tried it further.
 
Before you get too bent out of shape about your barrel,you should do one of the simplest things,bed your action.I have a Sendero with a laminated wood stock.That thing is a shooter.I took the stock off to adjust the trigger and my accuracy went to hell after that.I could not get it to shoot worth a darn anymore.I even bought a HS Precision Sendero stock and tried that,but I still wasn't getting the accuracy I once had.I bedded the action on the HS stock and bingo!that did it.So I put the laminated wood stock back on and bedded the action on it too.My accuracy is now restored and will print nice little clovers again.
 
I'm fairly new to the long range shooting. I bought a sendero II in the 300 RUM. A good friend of mine has the same gun, and loads all of our ammo. Mine is sighted in from 100 to 1000 in 100 yard increments. Most of the shooting we have done has been from 500 to 1000 at ten inch steel plate targets. For fun today I shot a three round group at 200 yards. At 200 yards it shot a .7moa. I'm pushing a 210g Berger VLD with 92g of H1000. I do all of my shooting off a bipod shooting prone.
 
Bigbutt, The only thing I have to measure with at my house is a standard tape measure. Using a standard tape measure the over all length is 3 11/16 inches.
 
victor:
You're getting a lot of good advice here, but no one has gone over the basics....

1. Check every screw and bolt on the rifle and make sure they are secure. If you have a torque screwdriver, torque your action screws to 65in. lbs.. Torque your scope bases to 25in. lbs. If your rings are steel, torque them to 25in. lbs too. If they are aluminum, torque them to 15-20in. lbs.

2. Insure your barrel is free floating. Starting at the muzzle, wrap a dollar bill around the barrel and run it up the barrel torward the action. It should move smoothly to within about 1" of the recoil lug. If it does not, if there's a point where it drags, or just flat out stops, take the action out of the stock and remove the obstruction - this can be accomplished with a file, sand paper or dremel tool. Then put your action back (torqued to 65in. lbs.) and check the float of your barrel again.

3. Check yor bore. Stick a bore light in both ends of the barrel. Put the light in the chamber end, make sure your throat looks clean and does not have any visible flaws. Look closely at the bore of your rifle - you're looking for flaws or inconsistancies. Next put the light in from the muzzle end and repeat the examination from this end. Also, be sure to examine the crown closely - make sure there are no flaws or inconsistancies.

4. Another way to check your crown....fire a few rounds and look at your crown. Does the exiting gas and particles leave a consistent/even pattern on the crown? it should.

5. Examine your shooting set-up. Although your sendero stock should be pretty stiff, be sure nothing is putting torque on your stock.

If your rifle passes all these tests you can attempt to work with this rifle - I would bed the action and recrown the barrel. The next alternative will be to rebarrel the rifle and bed the action.
 
Geat Advise Guy's..

I'd like to add my two cents worth.
I bought a new 7mmRem Mag Sendero a few months ago and I also had
major problems with accuracy.
I put a box of Hornady factory ammo through it to run the barrel in and it
sprayed 2-3in groups at 100yds off a proper bench rest.

So I took it back to the shop and had the barrel inspected..........and
sure enough the barrel was not crowned properly.
It was recrowned by a local gunsmith who lightened the trigger as well.

It's shooting much better now .5-.6'' at 100yds with Nosler virin brass
73.0gns ADI2225 and Sierra 168MK.

Can't wait to try the next round of loads with fireformed cases.

Greg
 
I'm new to the forum and I feel like I'm a little late for this party. If you're still having problems try this. I too shoot a 7mag sendero and mine is a tack driver which took a little extra work duing the break in process. I used J&B polishing compound between each round in the break in. This removed all the microscopic burrs in the barrel. Also remember that the twist rate of your barrel is 1 in 9.25 and will not shoot the light bullets in the 140 weight or lighter. My rifle likes the 150 ballistic tips and 162 A-max and will shoot these in the .2 and .3 at 100yds with no problems. Someone mention the torque screws on the stock at 65 in lbs and Remington says it should be only 45 in lbs. If you're going to shoot manufactured rounds, try Rem 150gr Accu-tip. My rifle will shoot these in the .6 to.7's at 200yds. Hornadys rounds will not shoot well regardless of the weight in my rifle. Hornady actually makes the Accu-tip for Remington. I reload the Nosler 150 straight out the manual using IMR7828 and the Hornady 162A-max with H1000 and both rounds with shoot 2 to 3 inch groups at 650yds. The key is back to the J&B polishing compound which is just lapping the barrel. I bet this will solve your problem.

Jim
 
A poor crown is certainly detrimental.

What I have seen make the biggest difference in any rifle is the overall length of the chamber. A shorter oal chamber will minimize brass flow, give more loadings and improve accuracy.

If you have access to an RCBS Precision Mic or Wilson case gauge, measure unfired brass noting the reading. Measure it again after you load it if you are a handloader. Then fire the cartridge and measure your fired case. Might want to select 3 or 4 that are the same in unfired measurement and see how they gauge after being fired.

RCBS Precision Mic is not made to perfectly mimic a SAAMI chamber, so it is only a guide. Yet, if you see the overall length of your cases before and after firing you can get an idea of the dimension of your chamber.

Most Remington chambers are a few thousandths on the longish side. You can have your gunsmith set the barrel forward to give you a .001 over minimum chamber and see your groups tighten up remarkably.

H-S Precision stocks have been traditionally torqued to 65inch pounds per H-S instruction. Might have better luck if you vary the torque from 40-50ip and try differing the values per each action screw.

Barrel might also be torqued on the receiver like it was done with a ten ton hydraulic press. If your barrel is being set forward, have the smith lap the face of your receiver and recoil lug where it bears against the receiver shoulder and rear of the recoil lug cut out. H-S Precision stocks are excellent, in my experience, but you could also lightly skim-bed your receiver to the action block.


Then there is ammunition. Unless you are handloading you won't even begin to get the control over accuracy you are seeking. Most Remington 700s will need a trigger job. About 2.5lbs trigger pull is excellent. Other receiver and bolt truing with lug lapping is not as critical as a minimum oal chamber and precision handloads. May as well save the action job for later as you may find you don't need it.

I have used J-B bore paste to remove fouling, but if you think your bore is rough, David Tubb's firelapping bullets are probably the better way to go. J-B is not meant to be a lapping compound. Ed Shilen is quoted as saying he's seen more barrels ruined from over-cleaning than anything else.
 
Grab the stock very close to the fore end so that your finger tips touch both the barrel and the stock, then loosen and tighten your front action screw. If there is movement you probably found your problem, bedding.
 
Maybe you should let someone else shoot it a few times.
My sendero shot sub moa groups with the first rounds thur the barrel.
 
It might be to late to reply, but I had the same exact problem you were having. I took the gun to it bedded and trigger work, it helped about 50 percent with accuracy. I just bought this gun about 4 months ago so have shot close to 100 rds. Towards the 100 rd. mark my groups got better and better. I shoot 210 bergers with h1000. I am shooting a three shot group all in the same hole at 100 yards. I would definately get it bedded and and shoot more.
 
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