SO TRUE!
Reloading to replicate another caliber?
- Thread starter TR1Hemi
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But, but , but I rinsed it with gasoline before lighting the furnace............................................WARNING!!!
Do Not, repeat DO NOT melt down car batteries for casting bullets (or casting anything else for that matter)!!!
There are some VERY toxic and nasty chemicals in there and some nasty things created in the melting process
In fact, one thing ive heard is that both the main content and the dross/slag produced can offgas some particularly nasty gasses that are heavier then air, which means they can hang around in a low spot for long time... making them dangerous for a lot longer than you might think. And some of the solid things produced arent very friendly either.
Also, i hear that due to modern battery physical and chemical construction, the lead is hard to get to, the yields will be low, so even in a "post apocalyptic scenario", the effort required vs the yield output just isnt worth it
Car battery lead often contains arsenic, so melting that lead can mean youre burning / vaporizing arsenic.... from what i understand... and thats only part of the danger
TLR - CASTING WITH OLD BATTERIES IS BAD JUJU
Shumba1
Well-Known Member
I do the same. Start close to the beginning book loads and just look for accuracy. Mostly shoot steel from 200 to 600 yards (max at my range) with my 308 and 6.5 CM. My 6.5CM shoots really tiny groups with 140 grn BTHP at 2,600 fps. I could easily push to 2,700 fps, but no reason to as I can easily hit out to 600 yards at the lower velocity. Easier on the gun/action/barrel and me, but still accomplishes the mission. Now, if I were to take it hunting, I would go with my 143 ELDX at 2,700 fps load.
Same with my 26" barrel 300 WM. I can get to over +2,900 fps with 215 Bergers and great accuracy. I load down to 2,800 fps and get equal/better accuracy, but easier on me and the rifle. 2,800 fps still gets me to +1,500 ft. lbs. of energy at 1,000 yards in elk country. More than enough!
Same with my 26" barrel 300 WM. I can get to over +2,900 fps with 215 Bergers and great accuracy. I load down to 2,800 fps and get equal/better accuracy, but easier on me and the rifle. 2,800 fps still gets me to +1,500 ft. lbs. of energy at 1,000 yards in elk country. More than enough!
There are reasons for having longer barrels and different cartridges in the same caliber. I chose not to go with 26nos and 6.5-300wby and go longer barrel on my 264wm to solve more burning powder, keeping pressures down and making throat last longer. I have 5 cartridges in 26cal along with various barrel lengths from 18-32". The 5 are, 6.5gren, 6.5creed, 260rem, 6.5prc and 264wm (wm being the only ba). 30cals are in 2nd place with 3 (300bo, 308win & 300wm). No need to push the heavies per caliber without a larger case.
I pretty much subscribe to the Axiom: "Don't be hard on your equipment." If I find a low node, I pretty much leave it alone as long as it has the velocity and terminal energy to dispatch the deer, groundhog, pig, or whatever else I'm shooting at. Sometimes, I even ask here to get opinions after doing some of my own research. Most of my "hotter" loads always seem to be about 1.5 to 2.0 grains below published max. I learned quickly that every rifle is different and have at times, experienced pressure with load combinations much earlier than I expected to see it. The best way to get a Creedmore to shoot faster is to buy a 6.5 PRC or a 6.5-284 if you ask me.
I shoot for accuracy. None of the weapons I currently load for are running max loads. My 80-year-old body no longer allows hunting per se; now I'm chasing the mythical .000" group. I do get a wide berth at the range when shooting my 338 Lapua; it seems folks are muzzle blast shy; I don't blame them, which is why I ask for a lane that's the farthest from others. I do find some like to see impact; the rifle, which my native American brother-in-law calls "Big Thunder," moves a lot of real estate.
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
Look for a recycling yard that take batteries. You can turn them in all at one time. I wouldn't drive a hundred miles to do that. Look on either facebook or on the net for loacations. Most will take any kind of metal.
It's a little off the subject, but bring others up to speed.
Now back to the subject: I have reloaded for 62 yrs now. First it was because I could reload cheaper than store brought. Labor not included. Then after acquiring addional firearms, it expanded into developing loads for those firearms. A quest to get the tightest groups I could get. Changing out powder, Primers, and bullets. Then adding cases to the items being used for reloading. What the bullet did on contact with the animals I was hunting. Grouping is the most importance. Velocity was the next, but I look at what the reloading manuals show to start with. I have arange of velocity that I hold too. Velocity is generally around 3200 to 3300 fps. Some of my smaller calibers are in the leage of 3900 fps. So with that it kind of limits what I am going use for bullet weight. The other is what I am going to use that firearm to hunt for. That in away determine the weight of the bullet I am going to use. I won't use a 25/06 for elk or larger game. I know that that smaller calibers will work, I personaly feel they are to small to really take them down. You can use whatever, but not me.
Do I go over stated limits of powder stated by the manuals, YES in some cases. I also look at how the powder does if possible with temp changes, because I hunt in weather that changes as much as 130+ degree between lows and highs. Some powder change over 1.5 fps per degree. That can change your POI by a great amount. Especially at longer yardages. At 50fps change at 1000yds can be as much as 14". Gee guess what you have missed. I known that there are scopes, and other equipment to adjust the elevation to make that shot. One shot one kill. So velocity is my friend, and the same velocity really help. No brainer to figure out you drop with one rifle or another if velocity are about the same. I go into watching what my reloads are doing in acquiring velocity YES. VERY CAREFULLY, AND AND EACH CASE IS LOOKED AT BEFORE THE NEXT ONE IS PLACED INTO THE CHAMBER.
I am somewhat concern with adjusting my bullet length to lands. Once I have max load. I do reduce the powder load and adjust my bullet to lands looking for better groups. No creator primer, no ejector marks, just flatten primers is my top load or hot load.
Most double based powders have a problems with temp change. I do realize that higher velocity can be acheived with them, but it comes back to temp change. A lot of the Reloaders change over 1fps per degree. Take the means of 65dr that still 65fps between low and high. That over 14" at a 1000yds above or below depending on the weather, and temp change.
Do I push my reloads up above manual spect at times, but I am using powders that temp change of 65 dr as the means and SD. Max 23.4 pfs between the coldest temp to the hottest temp. That's under 8" over either way of 65 degrees as the means. At a 1000yds it still a hit. and generally in the kill areas.
So there a lot more than just hot or cold loads for your rifle. I do see it all the time here with cases having ejector marks on the base of the cases. So even going as far those loads are not hot.
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memtb
Well-Known Member
You can still get wheel weights……just be ready to discard a lot of unusable stuff! memtb
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
It's the age old 300WSM is just as fast as 300WM. It's like engine discussions , "no replacement for displacement". More horsepower gets it done.
We all have pushed a cartridge but learn to gain performance through other means, longer actions, more freebore, longer barrels, high energy powders, less drag bullets, heavier higher BC bullets, better brass.
When all else fails, bigger boomer!
We all have pushed a cartridge but learn to gain performance through other means, longer actions, more freebore, longer barrels, high energy powders, less drag bullets, heavier higher BC bullets, better brass.
When all else fails, bigger boomer!
Lenny Foffa
Well-Known Member
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- Mar 6, 2017
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I have no interest in trying to get my 308 or my 30-06 to shoot the same bullet at the velocity of my .300 Weatherby Mag. The reason I bought the 300 Weatherby was to have a caliber , with a bigger case , that fired a .30 cal bullet faster and hit harder than the 308 or the 30 -06, at any given range . I also have no interest in getting my .300 Weatherby Mag to shoot like a 300 RUM. The current published data offers many .300 Weatherby Loads that provide more than enough energy and velocity, at extended ranges ,to get the job done . If I should ever require MORE ENERGY and MORE VELOCITY at Greater Ranges or see a need to shoot a Heavier Bullet then the 300 Weatherby will allow, then a decision must be made to either Re- barrel the 300 Weatherby to a larger caliber, ( Ex: 375 H and H ) .An example I could think of would be a once in my life Brown Bear hunt. or, ( I love this part ) Buy a New Rifle!!!!
tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
My wife finally stopped asking me why I have "so many" rifles and pistols". Each does a job the others might do, but the gun is the right tool for the job.
I reload for a few reasons. I like to practice, and I practice with what I would shoot in the field, or for protection. The price of a reload is close to a 1/3 of factory ammo.
I like to make big holes. I have found my reloads let me make big holes. Factory ammo varies too much. Most noticeable when the distanced become greater.
I like to have ammunition on hand. When the market has low or no ammunition, I am okay. Probably could shoot for a year before being affected by market shortages.
Reloading causes me to search, and find why I miss. If everything is the same on the ammo, the day is still, same location, then the factor is probably me. Hopefully not worn out equipment.
I reload for a few reasons. I like to practice, and I practice with what I would shoot in the field, or for protection. The price of a reload is close to a 1/3 of factory ammo.
I like to make big holes. I have found my reloads let me make big holes. Factory ammo varies too much. Most noticeable when the distanced become greater.
I like to have ammunition on hand. When the market has low or no ammunition, I am okay. Probably could shoot for a year before being affected by market shortages.
Reloading causes me to search, and find why I miss. If everything is the same on the ammo, the day is still, same location, then the factor is probably me. Hopefully not worn out equipment.
tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
That scares me. I have seen a few rifles that had had hot reloads. Shattered actions, and torn to pieces.
I had one "hot" load in my .3338LM.
I fired it, the ground shook, smoke came out of places that are not supposed to smoke, a dust cloud arose. Let it cool down, the bold would not move up. Went home, got a long brass rod, open and removed the bolt, dropped the rod thru the barrel. The brass did come out, after several drops of the rod. Swollen and a bit deformed.
But why? I am anal and my powder is maximum ±0.50 grain. If anything is not proper, I empty and start that brass over. I have numbered each brass with an acid pencil.
Finally it clicked. 120℉, I had left a few rounds sitting in the sun.
My fault, thankfully no damage.
My rounds now stay next to my skin. Inconvenient, but all cartridges are 96.5 ± 5℉.
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
What type of powder were you using? I just got done above on powder and temp change. I had that problem a great many years ago with IMR powders. It was great in the cool weather, but in hot weather it put the pressure over the top. Never used that powder again.
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I am glad to hear what sounds like logic and sanity. I have had to stop myself when heading down the hotrodding road. Mostly with AR15 platform cartridges, 6.8 SPC and 6.5 Gren, if I can't get it done with medium loads, hot loads probably are not either. I either need to move to the AR10 platform (which are just too heavy), or some bolt action in the 243, 7mm-08, 6.5 Cr, or 308 class.
