Reloading process questions

[SavageHunter11]

Getting set up to start reloading while a gun is being built and was wondering if I could have thoughts on my reloading process such as order, frequency, etc. For all intensive purposes I'm new to reloading, I tried it for a few months about 7 or 8 years ago, so I'm open to all suggestions. Right now I have all the equipment to follow the process I have below but if there is anything else I need I want to order it before my rifle is built.

1. Media clean fired brass
2. Anneal cases (every 3rd reload)
3. Resize body and de-prime case
4. Resize neck with bushing neck die (every reload?)
5. Sonic clean to clean primer pockets, case interior, and remove case lube
6. Trim cases to length (only when out of spec)
7. Turn necks
8. Chamfer case necks, primer pockets, and flash hole
9. Square up the primer pockets
10. Prime case
11. Weight and add powder charge
12. Seat bullet
13. Check for round for concentricity
14. Measure OAL
15. FINISHED

 

[ar10ar15man]

you have brass prep and loading mixed up
you only turn necks once
you uniform primer pockets as in depth.
you do not need to chamfer primer pockets with commercial brass, mil brass only one time if done right
the most common practice to day is to size , shoulder bump, body size and neck size in one operation with a single die.
if this is a hunting gun do what you want, if a target rifle, anneal every time. uniformity is the name of the game.

 

[SavageHunter11]

you have brass prep and
the most common practice to day is to size , shoulder bump, body size and neck size in one operation with a single die.

Are there benefits to doing it all at once? On another post what I took away is that you should resize the neck separate with a bushing die for the best results but i may have misunderstood.

 

[jasonco]

My process after firing is:
1. deprime, inspect
2. wet tumble, dry in humidifier, inspect
3. anneal (if needed), inspect
4. lube, measure, size, measure, inspect
5. measure, trim(if needed), measure, inspect
6. wet tumble, dry in humidifier, inspect
7. prime, put in loading tray
8. weigh powder, seat bullet, measure, inspect
9. put in ammo box
10. shoot, get data, collect targets, record in data book
......do it all over again

 

[SavageHunter11]

My process after firing is:
1. deprime, inspect
2. wet tumble, dry in humidifier, inspect
3. anneal (if needed), inspect
4. lube, measure, size, measure, inspect
5. measure, trim(if needed), measure, inspect
6. wet tumble, dry in humidifier, inspect
7. prime, put in loading tray
8. weigh powder, seat bullet, measure, inspect
9. put in ammo box
10. shoot, get data, collect targets, record in data book
......do it all over again

It look about the same as what I plan to follow. Couple of questions. Do you have a die specifically for depriming a case? Any reason you trim before your second cleaning or is it just your preference? Thank you for sharing your process.

 

[jasonco]

Lee universal depriming die. I'v removed the deprimer out of my die sets, except for a 5.56 bulk die set.

 

[jasonco]

Some of my brass requires a trim or I choose to trim after every firing 5.56/223 (semi-auto not bolt). The rest are set up for .002".003" FL bump size (6mm Creed, 6.5 Creed, 6.5x284N, 28 Nosler, 300 RUM) that doesn't require trimming after every firing.

 

[Rumup]

my process

1 new brass best available
2 neck turn
3 full length bushing size & chamfer
4 prime load shoot
5 deprime
6 tumble dry
7 brush the inside of neck
8 anneal
9 short full length bushing size (push the shoulder back .002)
10 trim & chamfer if need

start again at #4

 

[jebel]

This repeats some of what ar10 said, I think. In your #8 and #9 you talk about prepping flash holes and primer pockets. I uniform both when the brass is new (only once). Aside from a bit of cleaning of primer pockets, leave them alone after that (flash hole too).

I agree that neck turning is a one-time operation in the life of the brass. I also don't think it's a standard step for most people. Unless you have a custom chamber that requires it, you may be able to avoid turning, if you buy high-quality brass that already has pretty consistent neck thickness. It's a choice to be made based on what you see when you measure your neck thickness and its consistency.

Resizing body separate from a neck bushing die, versus using a full length bushing die to do all at once, is also a choice. Personally, I think you're fine with either route.

A couple other differences from my process that are not consequential. Looks good.

 

[SavageHunter11]

...you may be able to avoid turning, if you buy high-quality brass that already has pretty consistent neck thickness. It's a choice to be made based on what you see when you measure your neck thickness and its consistency.

So this makes me think I have misunderstood turning the necks. I thought the tool for neck turning made sure the neck was concentric with the body and perfectly round but the way you described it above it sounds like it cuts the case neck walls to an identical thickness. If I understand you correctly I am thinking I won't need this neck turner in my process and probably not at all for the most part.

 

[jebel]

the way you described it above it sounds like it cuts the case neck walls to an identical thickness.

Yes, turning shaves the neck thickness. If you're using bushing dies, and you find that your neck thickness is highly erratic, some might then want to turn (partially or all the way down) to get the neck thickness more consistent. The end goal is to get the neck tension more consistent. Shaving (turning) the necks will also affect the size bushing you need, of course, as your total diameter changes.

My point was that if your necks were already reasonably consistent in their thickness, you might just find a bushing that fits those stats and move forward without worrying about turning at all.

Some with custom chambers must turn necks, because the tolerances are so tight they need extra space in order for the bullet to release properly.

 

[SavageHunter11]

Yes, turning shaves the neck thickness. If you're using bushing dies, and you find that your neck thickness is highly erratic, some might then want to turn (partially or all the way down) to get the neck thickness more consistent. The end goal is to get the neck tension more consistent. Shaving (turning) the necks will also affect the size bushing you need, of course, as your total diameter changes.

My point was that if your necks were already reasonably consistent in their thickness, you might just find a bushing that fits those stats and move forward without worrying about turning at all.

Some with custom chambers must turn necks, because the tolerances are so tight they need extra space in order for the bullet to release properly.

main reloads will be with a 280 A.I. with Nosler brass, a 338 Lapua with Lapua brass, and a 6.5 creedmoor with Hornady brass. hopefully I don't have to worry too much

 

[birdiemc]

Adding to what Jabel said, if you get a jig to check run out, which I think I remember you mentioned you might, you can check you body to neck concentricity after sizing, if you have no run out and you are satisfied with neck tension and neck thickness there would be no need to turn.

 

[ar10ar15man]

that aint gonna happen

Adding to what Jabel said, if you get a jig to check run out, which I think I remember you mentioned you might, you can check you body to neck concentricity after sizing, if you have no run out and you are satisfied with neck tension and neck thickness there would be no need to turn.