Painting Barrelled Actions

Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
17
Location
Western Oregon
I am considering painting my barrelled actions and wonder if anyone has informaion on this.

I may choose to have it done professionally. However, I am also thinking of trying a product from Midway called Duracoat. If anyone knows anything about this do it youself painting please let me know.

Actions are currently blued with stainless barrels.

Thanks,

Zane
 
The aluma-hyde from Brownells works pretty well , it getts realy hard after it has cured. I've actualy had better success with the aluma-hyde than with their bake on finishes .
Alot of guys use BBQ grill paint , its pretty tough and dries fast , I would think that any quality epoxy paint would work well if the surface is cleaned right
 
I've used model airplane paints, the fuel resistant type, on some test barrels. It worked very well when allowed to dry for a while and the solvents didn't seem to bother it much.

Has anybody else done this? I'm hoping it works well because the number of colors available is much higher than other options -- you can get flat, semi-gloss and gloss as well.
 
I have used 3 types of paint to coat rifles/barreled actions.
1 rustolium camo flat spray paints, works ok, I used it over some of the "stone texture" paint for a 3d look. effective, semi durable, but not professional. Hoppes will take the stuff off if you let it soak more than a few minutes.

2 Dry flim coating done by airborne coatings. this company coats mostly exhaust systems for cars, but our local branch here in OKC has an entire line that is low temp enough (they are baked on) that you don't have to worry about the metalurgy of the steel, and in colors ranging from flat black, to bright pink. There are a few IPSC and IDPA pistols around here sporting their Sky blue, Chevrolet orange, and hot pink finishs. Great for metal parts, but you can't do stocks. I have had 4 guns done in this finish, one of which I gave as a gift, if that gives you some idea what I think of them. Extremly durable, and cheap. Really cheap. Cleaners won't touch the stuff.

3 duracoat done by my gunsmith. Also very durable, though not as scratch resistant as the dry film. This stuff is great for doing camo on whole rifles, and looks very professional when they are done. MUCH more expensive than the dry film coating. Safe for solvents too.
Personally, the next camo rifle I build will have a stock/ rings/scope done in durocoat camoflage, with the barrel reciever/bottom metal done by airborne in OD green.
 
If your looking for a product that works over metal, plastic, wood then Duracoat will work great. It comes ready to spray with the addition of hardener (really an activator).

You have several hours you can use in sprayer yet dry to touch in 20 min and ready for assembly in a day but better to give it a few days to really appreciate the hardness and quality of this finish.

The best deals for this finish can be found by calling 800-830-6677 and ask for Steve @ Lauer Custom Weaponry or you can check out their web site at: http://www.lauerweaponry.com

They have been profecting this finish since '94 and rather than ordering just a single color, I like to get there color kits which include 4 or 5 different colors and enough hardener for all. The only other item you will need will be some reduce to keep product spraying smooth.

I like their Woodland Signature Pac for color content. these are matte finishes in this pac with many patterns which can be done with these colors. But they have some other very neat packs as well.

You can get just there Matte Black for just the action and barrel and it gives a very nice flat finish and very sharp appearance when the surface has been sandblasted.

Also if you choose not to do it yourself or wish to do entire rifle try: http://www.ironbrigadearmory.com they also spray on some really neat patterns.

Hoped this helped,
Ben
 
abinok, I see you too like to play. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If you want to try a kool cheap tactical finish go to your loacal automotive paint store and ask for a product called, "chip guard" its the black stuff they use at the bottom of quarter panels and is chip resistant.

Spray this stuff on a wood stock for a truly black tactical finish, which has a pretty neat surface finish. You cannot destroy this finish it clings like a varnish and wares incredibly well. Not so well on metal or plastics.

Its textured finish will smooth out over time with handling but it does not ware off.

Its a great finish if your ever looking for that cheep black tactical look. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Ben
 
I have an Encore thats painted with the heat resistant flat black for wood stoves etc.... I then painted over with camo paint from Napa( I suspect it was Krylon flat camo colors). Took it on a 7 day trip through the mountains in NM and it held out fairly well. I put it on in an ASAT pattern and it blended in really well.

I'd rather have a professional finish that won't wear off at the muzzle or wear points, but this one was cheap enough.

Jeff
 
[ QUOTE ]

I'd rather have a professional finish that won't wear off at the muzzle or wear points, but this one was cheap enough.
Jeff

[/ QUOTE ]

rost495, Yes, this is a problem with most all painted finishes I have seen. At any points with wear or tight tolorances the finish will most always wear off. The better finishes will not normally come off at the muzzle as I normally find this with the cheaper or quicker applied finishes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

When the painted finishes are applied from a professional like ironbrigad armory they will put a nice parkerized finish under it so as the painted surface is removed from the wear spots there is still a durable finish protecting the metal. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Thanks for pointing this out as it certainly can make or brake the idea of a painted surface to many. For those wanting to do it yourself, the Duracoat is the best on the market and what many professionals use as this (firearms) is what it was designed for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Thanks,
Ben
 
Yes i use krylon or Napa(same paint),I got a inside a few years ago when a was rebuilding a hk91.HK uses Krylon.Also had great luck with aluminum hyde.Ipaint everything except a brannew gun,normally flat black or gloss flat black,whet to green for a change.And the best thing for 2$ and 1 hour your gun is back to new.I don't believe in anything to pretty,can't get good use of it.
 
Well i put a pic on general cat,I forgot to mention Glyptinol,engine paint,smothes things out and is made for HEAT transfer.
 
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