New to reloading...this is my plan...

Yes, I'm getting a good complete list of individual products and getting things priced out, thanks to all the advice given so far! One of my biggest hangups is a scale. I don't know that I can justify the cost if an fx-120 to get that .01 accuracy. And if I don't do that, and want the accuracy that I'm getting, is it worth getting into? The cost of that scale alone could keep me shooting custom ammo for years...
I use an older OHAUS 5 0 5 beam scale....I also have a cheaper Lyman electronic that I use from time to time just to check myself. I use a trickler to feed my beam scale once I throw from my powder measurer, just like you'd do with an electronic.
Once you get a beam scale set, I'm not sure you can get a more accurate of a load measured....although I've never used a high-end $$ one, never thought I'd need one.
The last groups I shot were in the .2's....so it must be close.
 
The fx scales and autotrickler are very nice once reloading and long range becomes an obsession. You can get single digit sd's with a beam scale or charge master. For years my chargemaster with 4350 would give me single digit sd's, but not after I switched to rl16.

With the autotrickler, my 6.5 Addiction load has an sd of 4 over 10 rounds. My son's creedmoor load has an sd of 5. My 6.5x47 using brass that is getting close to double digit loadings is close to 10-12 for the sd. My next purchase will be an annealer. I'd like to get my sd's back down for those loads and when I start a new batch of brass see how long I can keep them there.
 
the cheap lyman electronic is not good enough to check the beam.

I use an older OHAUS 5 0 5 beam scale....I also have a cheaper Lyman electronic that I use from time to time just to check myself. I use a trickler to feed my beam scale once I throw from my powder measurer, just like you'd do with an electronic.
Once you get a beam scale set, I'm not sure you can get a more accurate of a load measured....although I've never used a high-end $$ one, never thought I'd need one.
The last groups I shot were in the .2's....so it must be close.
 
honestly for starting you can go with a 10-10 beam(very slow) or the chargemaster lite.
if you stay in the game an fx120i will become useful.
if you use a beam scale mount it on a shelf at eye level so you can actually see when it is level, not close. leave room on the shelf for a trickler .
 
On the note of electronic scales. You do NOT need the electronic scale for long range reloading. Look for a used mechanical powder measure. If you were local, I'd make you a deal on my old RCBS. Set it to throw low, and trickle up. Takes longer, as you will need to throw the charge .5 to a whole grain low to keep them all under your target weight. Or you can get a tiny little silver spoon to remove some from the pan....

Anyhow, point it, if finances are closing in on you, ditch the electronic scale/powder measure.

Where the electronic really shines BTW, is measuring a couple hundred cases to weight sort and discard the extremes. Try that with a beam scale and you'll drive yourself crazy. Or you can just buy top tier brass (Norma, Nosler, Lapua etc) and not bother to sort. Brass sorting is in the OCD end of the rabbit warren......

On the topic of annealing... One post recommended a $275 annealing machine. Other guys recommend bushing dies and separate expander mandrels. Both aim to preserve/extend brass life and make neck tension uniform over time. I think annealing is great, and I do it with tempilac, two torches pointed at each other, my cordless drill and a 9/16" deep well impact socket (more mass to heat up). Cost: one extra propane torch and a bottle of tempilaq. Best of all-- You don't need to worry about annealing at the beginning. Worry about it later...... Or if you are like some guys and get 6 firings out of your brass and are shooting bug eyes, then NEVER worry about it.
 
My reloading history started with:
1. RCBS Rockchucker
2. RCBS beam scale
3.Lyman powder measure (mechanical)
4. Powder trickler
5. Lee case trimmer (simple, cheap hand tool)
6. Vernier caliper
7. Lube pad, plastic funnel, etc
8. Three loading manuals
I was able to assemble ammo that could shoot sub MOA for twenty years. It was a labor of love (or should be). As the kids got older and my disposable income increased, I upgraded and expanded. For an increase in total investment the increase in improved accuracy marginally improved. You've got custom ammo that provides you a benchmark to compare your reloads against. IMO, start at the beginning and learn the craft, adding upgrades as needed based on acquired expertise (experience at the bench and this forum). All I know about progressive loaders is they'd make the Pope cuss. A single stage press is the way to start out. Hope this is useful.
 
i will continue to point out, that just because one person cannot handle a quality progressive like a dillon, does not mean the rest of the world has the same issue.
 
yes you are missing the point...i already said that.
but
people keep jumping in and pass around horror stories.
and then you have my post
A progressive is great if you have a need for it. I doubt it is necessary for someone starting out that shoots a 7rm.
 
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mitutoyo...PM0XUWC1QU&sprefix=mitutoy&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_7

I use this set and highly recommend it. In a game where "thousands" matter a good caliper is a must

Again, I appreciate the constant flow of ideas. No worries on getting off topic. I'm trying to absorb all of this info.

Quality calipers is something many have mentioned. I know there's dial and digital... calipers in the $17 to $300 range. What is a quality caliper? I've read about and compared a bunch but when you guys say quality, what is good enough?
 
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i will continue to point out, that just because one person cannot handle a quality progressive like a dillon, does not mean the rest of the world has the same issue.

Yet you continue to point it out?? But after ONCE why not let the OP decide what he needs?
These are your words from post #48 :
as delivered NOT A PRECISION LOADING DEVICE.
i have 2
i HAND load all my current long range ammo

So you "continue to point out" this press to someone that has never reloaded and wants to shoot long range a press that you don't use for your long range ammo!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome advise
 
you are not paying attention to the post just prior to mine,
directly above my post
"All I know about progressive loaders is they'd make the Pope cuss. A single stage press is the way to start out." by tree farmer
try reading posts in context, in order
your reply is mostly wrong as i was talking to tree farmer


Yet you continue to point it out?? But after ONCE why not let the OP decide what he needs?
These are your words from post #48 :
as delivered NOT A PRECISION LOADING DEVICE.
i have 2
i HAND load all my current long range ammo

So you "continue to point out" this press to someone that has never reloaded and wants to shoot long range a press that you don't use for your long range ammo!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome advise
 
I'm not interested in loading a hundred cases at a time, all the time. I'll load maybe 20 here and 20 there. I will only be hunting a couple times a year and shooting enough to stay proficient with my gun. I have no interest in needing to re-barrel my gun.

A single stage press will suit my needs. I think we can put the progressive loader to bed.
 
Ballistics really is a true science when you look at it. Tuning your round to the harmonics of your barrel using OBT as a starting point....using your FPS and G7 BC to calculate your bullet drop. Using OWC (if you choose) for load development.
Every science has its disciplines, and most of what you've read so far works for each user based on their own experience. Thing is, it worked for them....you choose what you feel will work for you.
My own experience....the rabbit hole. It never ends....but what I have works for me.
 
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