New service rifle match shooter

Once again, dittos to Dan's comments, but I'd expand a little bit, too. Redding makes an Instant Indicator that works quite well, and L.E. Wilson, Midway and Dillon, all three sell very similar chamber type gages. Sinclair makes a set of bump gages to measure shoulder set back, and of course, there's the RCBS Precision Mic he's already mentioned. Doesn't make much difference which one you use, but USE ONE. I'm firmly convinced that 99.5% of all reloading problems associated with gas guns could be cured if more people would just use the damned gages. Along those same lines, Dan mentioned .003 set back, which is fine. I'd use that as a minimum number, though. Call it .003" to .005" to give some tolerance range here, but don't go less than .003" in any case. I see well intentioned suggestions here all the time about setting shoulder back no more than .001" for a bolt gun, and that a gas gun is no different than a bolt gun. Don't believe it. They're different, and they need to be treated differently. I've seen guys trying to use Benchrest techniques in their Service Rifles, since that will make them "more accurate." They're easy to pick out on the line; they're the guys shooting all alone on the alibi relays, hoping their gun doesn't jam like it did during their first string, and that they've got enough ammo to get through the match now. Not pretty, and you don't want to be "that guy."

His advice on the Win primers is good, and that really pains me. They used to make the best primers going for Service Rifles, and the WSR was pretty much a standard component for this game. I used them religiously. Then, for whatever reason, they decided they needed to improve sensitivity, and thinned the cups. Big time problems, lots of pierced primers, many replaced firing pins . . . wasn't pretty. I'm using Wolf now, but the 7 1/2's, CCI's or others are all good.

Lastly, his comments on the Dillon swager need to be chisled in stone. Far and away the best stand alone tool on the market for this task, and the only way to fly. There's other tools on the market, and they do a great job if you're doing a handful of cases for a varmint trip. For the numbers you'll be doing for the HP game, you need the Dillon. Unlike tthe others, the Dillon will give you perfectly swaged primer pockets, every time. Read the instructions, set it up properly for the cases you're doing (they take some minor adjustment) and you'll be using it for years. The only one better, is the built in swager on their RL-1050 presses, if you ever decide to go whole hog. Hey, loads ammo AND swages primer pockets on every stroke? Sweet!

I think you'll find most any experienced HP shooter will be more than happy to help you get into the game. Pretty friendly bunch, and always happy to get new folks in the sport.
 
Thanks, you guys are full of experience, that I like.

I do have an RL550. I've been cutting the crimps out with the chamfer tool. I was drooling over the swagging tool from Dillon, another step in the process, ugh. I've looked at the RL1050, doesn't the 1050 also trim the cases?

Thanks for the points about primers.
 
Thanks, you guys are full of experience, that I like.

I do have an RL550. I've been cutting the crimps out with the chamfer tool. I was drooling over the swagging tool from Dillon, another step in the process, ugh. I've looked at the RL1050, doesn't the 1050 also trim the cases?

Thanks for the points about primers.

Rather than spend a bunch of money on new tools, you could do it like I do - send the once fired brass to Dick Whiting in West Virginia for processing. It only costs a couple cents apiece and YOUR brass will come back with not only the primer pockets swaged but also sized, trimmed, chamfered and polished. Ou just need to prime, charge and seat. How easy is that? If you want to do your own resizing on subsequent loadings, the hard part will be behind you.
 
And besides, it's not another step in the process, it's a one-time deal. Swage them once, and forget about 'em. So long as you don't mix them with other crimped brass, you're good to go.

Another solution would be to check with John Johnson at Brassman Brass. He often has new unprimed, unfired Lake City cases. These, of course, have not crimp, and are treated exactly the same as any other commercial case. Great guy to deal with and very decent prices.
 
If you have a chronograph, you may want to check the velocity of those loads. The charge is a bit light. You will find that most guys shooting a Wylde chambered service rifle use 23.5 - 24.0 of Varget with the 77gr. Even if your groups open up to 1/2 MOA or so with the heavier load, you will be all right. By the way, most highpower shooters I know test using 10 shot groups.

You sound like you are well on your way. Having experienced competitors help you get started is the way to go. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions.

See you at Camp Perry.

Dan

My second best group was .410 with 24.5 gr of varget so I may just stick with that load then, I am resizing the cases like normal and just weight sorting them, but really not paying much extra attention to them as a .410 group is good enough for me! well back to the range for round 3!

joshua
 
And besides, it's not another step in the process, it's a one-time deal. Swage them once, and forget about 'em. So long as you don't mix them with other crimped brass, you're good to go.

Another solution would be to check with John Johnson at Brassman Brass. He often has new unprimed, unfired Lake City cases. These, of course, have not crimp, and are treated exactly the same as any other commercial case. Great guy to deal with and very decent prices.

Thanks again,
Brass Man Brass, is easy to work with. That's where I got a lot of my once fired cases.
I opted to prepare my brass myself. It's not bad. One more step, like was said, once.
I'd like to put together a team when I get home. I have a few interested friends. I don't think they want to reload their own. So I may be doing piles of reloading for 4-8 shooters.
 
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