Muzzle Break for .300 Win Mag

megastink

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im thinking of picking up a Savage 110T-SR in .300 Win Mag. I'd like to hear from hunters that shoot this caliber: what muzzle break are you using and why?

This gun will primarily be used for deer and bear from 200-600 yards from a supported position. My priority is recoil reduction, but if there's a highly recommended recoil reduction that doesn't kick the noise back to my ears, that would be preferred.

Thanks!
 
Buy yourself some electronic muffs to wear hunting. I'll second the beast self timing brake. For maximum recoil reduction the Painkiller from Allen precision. They need to be timed by a smith
 
I like Harrell's Precision breaks but would buy a 3 port break. The advantage of the 3 port is when you shoot prone it will not shoot dust in your face. The break that I have on my 300 win mag is a APA MICRO FAT BASTARD. It's the old model not self timing. It's very loud but reduced the recoil very well. I recommend Harrell's because they just work, and 1/2 the cost of others out there.
Good luck
Jason
 
Only have one rifle braked , my 338-416 Rigby Improved......it needs it from shooting in the prone position most often with it.

Have several 300's, 338's, 375's and even 416/458's that don't require brakes.
Get a good recoil pad like a Pachmeyer, should tame a 300 to be tolerable, even though the recoil is not what I would call obnoxious.

Cheers.
 
Only have one rifle braked , my 338-416 Rigby Improved......it needs it from shooting in the prone position most often with it.

Have several 300's, 338's, 375's and even 416/458's that don't require brakes.
Get a good recoil pad like a Pachmeyer, should tame a 300 to be tolerable, even though the recoil is not what I would call obnoxious.

Cheers.

We all respond to a thread according to our own experience I suppose....So - not knowing yours - or the OP's....I wonder what if your "experience" had been that you had been blown up a couple of times, and due that - had your shooting shoulder ( and other parts...) re-built?.....:D You may want to reduce the load on that shoulder via a good pad for sure - but the brake is the most effective way to make recoil more manageable for someone that has:
1. not a lot of experience -or

2.may have developed a pain sensitivity flinch -or

3. injuries/age related issues.

Brakes help a lot of folks stay in the game that may not find it as fun otherwise. I have braked and un-braked magnums as well....but - if I am going to be at the range all day, and shooting for fun and not hunting - it used a BRAKED rifle. The warranty on several of my parts has expired according to the various surgeons that have put me back together over my time as a younger and possibly more bull headed individual:rolleyes:....and it is just the attempt to take a balanced approach to my shooting so I can enjoy it as long as possible. I have much less of a "one way" to accomplish things perspective. Just me.......
 
im thinking of picking up a Savage 110T-SR in .300 Win Mag. I'd like to hear from hunters that shoot this caliber: what muzzle break are you using and why?

My 300WM is a Savage 116 Bear Hunter with an adjustable brake. You can click it to open the brake ports for sighting in, then click it closed for hunting.
I've tested it several times and there is no difference in accuracy between the two positions.
 
im thinking of picking up a Savage 110T-SR in .300 Win Mag. I'd like to hear from hunters that shoot this caliber: what muzzle break are you using and why?

This gun will primarily be used for deer and bear from 200-600 yards from a supported position. My priority is recoil reduction, but if there's a highly recommended recoil reduction that doesn't kick the noise back to my ears, that would be preferred.

Thanks!
I use a .300 Wby. Vanguard with a Charlie Robinson break (Score-High) and Limbsaver jell recoil pad. Recoils less than my .270 with a rubber recoil pad with zero muzzle rise on ignition. Highly recommend both.
 
im thinking of picking up a Savage 110T-SR in .300 Win Mag. I'd like to hear from hunters that shoot this caliber: what muzzle break are you using and why?

This gun will primarily be used for deer and bear from 200-600 yards from a supported position. My priority is recoil reduction, but if there's a highly recommended recoil reduction that doesn't kick the noise back to my ears, that would be preferred.

Thanks!
Shoot enough that you are comfortable with an un-braked rifle. I really enjoyed shooting my 8.5 pound scoped .300wm until age 65 and two shoulder surgeries.
 
If you want some semi-scientific tests/results see: Precision Rifle Blog: Summary of field test results and related pages

I've found for the best staying on target & recoil reduction the JP Eliminator works awesome! For the best recoil reduction I've had real good luck with ZROdelta brakes and they come with shims (or at least the gen1 brakes did) so you don't have to use a gunsmith to time them unless you want to. If you end up with a non-threaded barrel I recently added a Whitt Machine clamp-on brake to my 300wm that has become to much recoil for my broken neck. I was super skeptical but I measured carefully and it fit perfect and it works so well I can shoot it again. A little "ugly" compared to some in my personal opinion but I can take it off and have my plane jane 300wm back.

I've not had any complaints at the range with the ZROdelta brake on the line compared to lets say a hellfire or other straight cut brakes that just blast everyone around you.

(getting on a soapbox)
BUT NO MATTER WHAT NEVER EVER EVER take a shot with out hearing protection with a brake!!! I've even gone to using "foamies" under my electronic muffs and turn up the volume all the way so I can still hear people on the range while getting double protection. The ringing in your ears never goes away once the nerve damage has been done. (off my soapbox)
 
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