Muzzel break blew off on the first shot!
- Thread starter Clayne B
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
WildRose
Well-Known Member
You can't tell now how deep the threads were cut originally, they've been partially stripped off.
My guess would be that it was loose and as a result stripped out and flew off.
I'd give the gunsmith a chance to make it right but it's probably going to cost you a a 1/2" of barrel to correct the problem no matter who fixes it for you.
Before it is reinstalled the threads on the brake need to be miked and thoroughly inspected. If it is slightly oversized that would be the source of the problem. No matter how tight you install a slightly oversized component like that it's just not going to take much to strip it out.
This whole mess could cost you the price of a new brake at a minimum plus if you go to anyone else the machining/installation charge as well.
Either way, he's responsible for his work and he should make it right.
My guess would be that it was loose and as a result stripped out and flew off.
I'd give the gunsmith a chance to make it right but it's probably going to cost you a a 1/2" of barrel to correct the problem no matter who fixes it for you.
Before it is reinstalled the threads on the brake need to be miked and thoroughly inspected. If it is slightly oversized that would be the source of the problem. No matter how tight you install a slightly oversized component like that it's just not going to take much to strip it out.
This whole mess could cost you the price of a new brake at a minimum plus if you go to anyone else the machining/installation charge as well.
Either way, he's responsible for his work and he should make it right.
cohunt
Well-Known Member
Wow, this thread is only 6 years old and the op said it got fixed
Last edited:
KyCarl
Well-Known Member
Those are crappy threads! They were probably cut undersize with a bad taper
And the "smith" used Locktite or some other adhesive. The red color..
Does he even know how to use wires to check it or does he just keep cutting until it fits?
Believe me he's not a machinist by any stretch! Don't let him touch it again!
And the "smith" used Locktite or some other adhesive. The red color..
Does he even know how to use wires to check it or does he just keep cutting until it fits?
Believe me he's not a machinist by any stretch! Don't let him touch it again!
NEMTHunter
Well-Known Member
Yea. People need to read before they state what the OP needs to do. Its been fixed for 6 years!! LOL
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Sometimes old threads get bumped. Still a good read and a good discussion.
Something must be up. Earlier today I replied to a thread in this same category that was 10 years old, showed in current posts. I didn't notice how old the thread was before I posted on it either.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Sometimes they seem to just resurrect themselves, I know it's happened to me as well several times.
Wayne allen
Member
I would take it back to the gunsmith and ask him what he is going to do about it.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Ya', some of these older threads seem to reappear, sometimes. Wayne allen, I'd take it back to show the guy that installed it to show him what happened. Don't know if I'd let him 'fix' it. This thread should really be in the "GUNSMITHING" section. That said, there are several things that come to mind and are important when installing a muzzle device of any kind. #1, we all assume that the threads IN the muzzle device we are going to install are perfect and made to the tightest tolerances . I do not assume either of those things. The internal threads should at least be visually examined, gaged if possible. If you happen to have a tap the size those threads are supposed to be, that'd be better than nothing to use for a 'gage'. #2, the treads on the barrel need to be lathe cut. The barrel should be set-up the same as done for chambering, so the bore is running 'true'. #3, The length of the thread is important. Some muzzle devices come with a stated length and size of the thread. If not, this needs to be checked so the barrel is threaded to the correct length. #4, The diameter to be threaded needs to be turned to the proper size. If the muzzle device has a 5/8"-24 thread in it, the area to be threaded should be turned to no smaller then .625" in diameter. If the muzzle device has a 1/2"-28 thread in it, no smaller then .500". #5, The barrel should be threaded a pass at a time until the muzzle device fits as it should. Not too tight, not too loose. Leave the thread wires in the tool box (Kycarl), because they are useless in this situation. They are just plain not needed to install a muzzle device properly. #6, Now the muzzle device is screwed on to the barrel properly. Next is to size the bore of the muzzle device so the bullet will pass through without striking the I.D. Normally, .020" to .025" is used, but use the recommendations of the muzzle device manufacturer. I never buy a muzzle brake that is already 'sized' to the caliber of the rifle it will be installed on. I prefer to enlarge the exit hole myself, after the muzzle device is attached to the barrel, WHILE the muzzle device is attached to the barrel. I like the idea of using a boring bar instead of a reamer, just to make sure the exit hole is running true to the barrel bore. A reamer will just follow an existing hole and if the threaded hole in the muzzle device is not concentric with the pilot hole in the muzzle device, the pilot hole will not be running 'true' with the barrel bore. The exit hole in the muzzle device HAS to be directly in-line with the barrel bore, or the bullet might strike, effecting accuracy or possible blowing the muzzle device off of the barrel. #7, Next, the outside of the muzzle attachment gets attention. Many times the O.D. of the barrel is not concentric to the bore in the barrel. So, the barrel is dialed-in on the outside , and the muzzle attachment is turned to "match-up" to the barrel (if desired and appropriate). Obviously, a muzzle attachment designed for attaching a suppressor should not be 'monkied with' on the outside. But, a muzzle brake can be contoured to the barrel O.D. in some instances. A might "long winded", but I just couldn't stand for some of the mis-information posted in this thread!
KyCarl
Well-Known Member
Sorry but I disagree..If you want a better class fit other than a 2 (nut and bolt)
You have to know where your pitch dia. is! Why do all the prints specify XYZ Dia.over .abc wires? They NEVER say cut until it fits...Really?
All the Action companies give a measurement over wires for the barrel fit!
I ground threads for years holding crazy tight tolerances...I know threads!
You have to know where your pitch dia. is! Why do all the prints specify XYZ Dia.over .abc wires? They NEVER say cut until it fits...Really?
All the Action companies give a measurement over wires for the barrel fit!
I ground threads for years holding crazy tight tolerances...I know threads!
