How to develop a new load?

The first group feed from the mag and the second group was done single shot. Probably 10 to 15 seconds between each shot in the 2 different groups. The 2 different groups probably had 10 min between them
 
The first group feed from the mag and the second group was done single shot. Probably 10 to 15 seconds between each shot in the 2 different groups. The 2 different groups probably had 10 min between them
I don't let my barrel get that hot. I might shoot 2 rds first off a cold barrel after that I consider it hot. Reloading is about consistency. Barrel temp also. As close as reasonable. Take more time between shots letting the barrel cool. I try and let my barrel get very cool again. I carry a fan. After all, while developing a hunting load I'm gonna shoot from a cold barrel. I need to know where that round is going. Your doing fine. Keep working upwards. ;)
 
I think you are expecting a lot from a $300 rifle with a plastic stock. You might want to bed the stock or get a new stock (Boyds sells them) before you continue doing your load development. After that, here are some very helpful articles on reloading.
Load development Article Series
Part 1
https://blog.westernhunter.net/a-start-up-guide-to-reloading/
Part 2
https://blog.westernhunter.net/load-development-for-your-hunting-rifle/
Part 3
https://blog.westernhunter.net/group-therapy-load-testing-and-evaluation/
Part 4
https://blog.westernhunter.net/ultimate-ammo-through-advanced-brass-prep/
 
Hmm well let's try to get a baseline. First off I believe you said the factory loads were about the same size as your handloads. That's good because you're making loads at least equal in accuracy to factory. Here's a link for some free targets.http://www.6mmbr.com/targets.html
I like to use the 100 yard benchrest. I make my shots 1-1.5 inch high from my point of aim. That's close to a 200 yard zero and it keeps my point of aim the same size. I line up or superimpose my crosshair on the corner of the square on the target. I use the outer edge of the square so the point of aim is precisely the same every time. Use one target for each load or 3 shot group to start out with.
 
And yes the plastic injected molded stocks aren't the greatest for tight groups. It can be done but you have to be more careful. Try to put pressure or rest your stock on sandbags close to your mag box. That can help keep the fore end from flexing and touching the barrel. If your not using a rear bag try one. It can help a lot. And before you go out the range again check if your action screws are tight.
 
Just an FYI that I learned from guys on the Nosler forum. The BT's and Accubonds like jump. Typically 0.070-0.100" from the lands. The Partition likes to be close to the lands. I usually seat them my max mag length unless I can get them 0.020" from the lands. When I made these adjustments with Nosler bullets, they all shot much better.

Where I typically set my length now is to the most concentric length. With a flat base bullet like a Partition, it's where the base of the bullet is at the neck/shoulder junction of the brass. With a boat tail bullet, it's the junction of the boat tail/base with the neck/shoulder junction of the brass. I did a lot of seating depth tests in the past, and what I found was the best seating depths were like I described above. Some of the long VLD bullets won't allow me to do this and fit the round in my mag, so I'll go with max mag length in that case or not use that particular bullet at all.
 
I start with seating first.
I've done it both ways, and doing a seating depth test first always gets me to where I need to be. Then I work up to max charge.

Check out Bergers seating depth test. It works with any bullet.


I have a bunch of Weatherbys that I recently started loading for. With the freebore of these rifles, does seating depth impact their performance?
 
I usually check a reloading book for the bullet I'm going to use, then I make my last load the max charge & go down 3 tenths of a grain for around 5 loads. start at the lowest charge & go up looking for pressure signs, my first testing loads are usually all .020 off the lands. most of my loads are near the max charge for best accuracy except for my creedmoors, they like above book max but no issue with pressure in any temp. for starting out you will see a common denominator on what powder is most popular for caliber you like. after that you can experiment on different powders. a chronograph is a valuable tool also. there is a whole lot of different things to consider but this is my basic starting system. after you have found a load that groups well you can then play with seating depth for mag length, tighter groups,etc.
 
I have several Weatherbyhunting rifles that I've started loading for
My understanding is that they have increased frrr bore so that the bullet gets a "head start " or jump before entering the lands. It also is supposedly safer because pressures aren't as high.

How do you adjust bullet seating depth in this circumstance? Does it pay to bother with this design?
 
I have successfully loaded for a few Weatherbys. Fit the magazine and make accurate loads. I worked with three .340's. The worst one shot 1 1/8". The 7 Weatherby did five shots in 1/2" at 100 yards. The .257 was not quite that good but under an inch. My .257SLR wildcat on a six lug Mark V did 10 shots in 3/4" at 100 yards; but it does not have freebore.
 
I have several Weatherbyhunting rifles that I've started loading for
My understanding is that they have increased frrr bore so that the bullet gets a "head start " or jump before entering the lands. It also is supposedly safer because pressures aren't as high.

How do you adjust bullet seating depth in this circumstance? Does it pay to bother with this design?
I've loaded for several wby also. Start at magazine length and work powder up. Then if the accuracy not quite there bump bullet back .02" increments and see if the group tightens. If it does then work around that in .005" increments.
They will respond to seating depth with some bullets and often will shoot best at saami length. But there's no point with measuring lands. I've also found the heavier for cal bullets work better in wby. I believe they make the jump without yawing better
 
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I've loaded for several wby also. Start at magazine length and work powder up. Then if the accuracy not quite there bump bullet back .02" increments and see if the group tightens. If it does then work around that in .005" increments.
They will respond to seating depth with some bullets and often will shoot best at saami length. But there's no point with measuring lands. I've also found the heavier for cal bullets work better in wby. I believe they make the jump with yawing better


Good tips Thank you!!
 
I do a ten round pressure test to find the max safe pressure and charge weight flat spots for low ES and SD numbers. Here is an example





I can show you multiple targets that say this is pure trash. I have said it countless times on this forum. You can not use a load development method that only works some times. I hate to be "that guy" but a simple search would show this has been discussed countless times. Just because your load is accurate does not mean it will have good es(bad for long range). Just because it has a great es does not mean it will be accurate(contradictory to what Scott says). Every time I hear a new to me method I try it. In the end the fastest way to a great load is a real ladder test which is performed at distance watching for little to no vertical. After finding that vertical node then play with seating depth. I will add some caveats because some people just have to have everything spelled out. A ladder test at long range is not going to yield small vertical from a rifle that is not capable. If in the case you can not get small vertical with an accurate rifle I would try a seating depth test and then reperform the ladder before moving on to different components. If you want the quickest way to a great load google Jason Baney ladder or Alex Wheeler ladder. Every ladder test I have performed has given fast repeatable long range accuracy with very few components used.
 
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