Help me setup new rifle

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by NEB, Feb 24, 2011.

  1. NEB

    NEB Member

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    Guys,

    I became interested in long range hunting a few years ago and I built a Savage 6.5-06 (Stockade Woodchuck, SSS benchrest trigger, 27" varmint contour Douglas barrel, EGW 20MOA base, and TPS rings) with Zeiss Conquest 4.5-14X50 with target turrets and duplex reticle. I spent a couple years familiarizing myself with the gun and setup a drop chart with Hornady A-max bullets. I hunt whitetails in GA mostly in clearcuts and powerlines. I used the rifle two seasons and was not able to take a long range shot because the bucks I see in these situations don't stand still very long and conditions change quickly. I use a Leica range finder, and it is fairly quick/accurate; however, I am not quick enough (or proficient enough) to range, focus, dial, aim, and shoot before the animal begins to move again.

    Enter question: I came across a great deal on a Weatherby Accumark 7mmSTW. The gun was used for crop depredation (hogs/deer) and was carried in a truck for opportunity shots across ag fields and was not shot often. It is in great shape, and the gent who owned it has health problems and cannot handle the recoil anymore. I want to set this gun up for long range, but rather duplicating what I did with the Savage, I want to set it up for quicker shots (it is much lighter than my other rifle so I figured it would be a good candidate). Should I set this gun up with standard mounts (i.e., Talley) and a scope with a ballistic reticle? Or should I set it up with a scope with a BDC type turret (i.e., Kenton Industries)? Windage is not a big issue for me, since I pick my long range opportunities when conditions are calm. Do I absolutely need a parallax adjustment or should I pick an optic with lower power to eliminate this step? Bottom line, I need to be able to range and adjust elevation as quickly as possible to take a buck while he sniffs the air for a sweetheart.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    Why not a ballistic reticule on your 6.5?

    Tank
     

  3. NEB

    NEB Member

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    Tank,

    I want to keep the 6.5 the way it is for a couple of reasons. First, I like having a gun that I can crank elevation and windage for the days I shoot targets (it is just fun, what else can I say). Also, I figured if I have two different setups I can figure out which one works better for me. We all know the 6.5-06 and the 7STW will eventually burn up their barrels, and when that happens I want to know which direction to go with a new and improved long range rifle when I rebarrel.

    By the way, I really like the Zeiss Conquest I have. I was considering one for my 7STW, but thought about going with the Rapid Z 800 or a custom turret to speed up the shot sequence. Then I started thinking about a scope 9 power or less to do without the extra step of parallax adjustment. Long story short, I started getting a little information overload and thought I would give you guys a chance to help me out. Tank made me stop and think for a second, and I appreciate that!

    Oh, one more detail, my longest shot opportunity on my property is around 750 yards.

    Thanks again.
     
  4. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    Here ya go: SWFA SS 10x42 Tactical Riflescope

    Single power, ballistic reticule, and parallax adjustment is where the power ring would normally be. I bet because of it being a normal mil-dot reticule, you could use the Nikon "Spot On" calculator to come up with some idea of what your reticule will shoot. Thumbs up for a 7STW. I would want to know about exactly how many rounds went down the tube though.

    Tank
     
  5. ubettcha13

    ubettcha13 Well-Known Member

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    Hours Vision reticle Either in their line of scopes or option on most great glass
     
  6. pyroducksx3

    pyroducksx3 Well-Known Member

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    For me I would think that a scope with a first focal plane and marks consistant with how you measure wind would be the quickest way to get on target. For example the new vortex viper pst with a MOA ebr reticle in the first focal plane, Or a nightforce FFP. I prefer MOA but there are other reticles for other measurments. There are some who dont like the FFP type reticles but I like the fact that no matter what magnifcation you are on the marks have the same value. I would think this and having a scope chart vs computer would be much faster. Just range, check chart, hold and shot vs. Range, input data, get solution, dial, shot. Both have stronger and weaker points. Its an option and you can still use both methods and just choose which one fits your situation.
     
  7. NEB

    NEB Member

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    I had a SS 10X42 on my first long range toy, a Savage .308 win. It was good at daylight shooting, and it was awesome at holding zero and tracking, it was severly lacking in the low light area you encounter during the whitetail rut.

    I don't want to boast, but even if the STW is burned up, I got such a great deal that I could not have bought the action and stock for the price I paid. If he won't shoot, it will get rebarreled.
     
  8. WyoElk2Hunt

    WyoElk2Hunt Well-Known Member

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    Try a G7 nightforse scope or a greybull precision leupold scope.
     
  9. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    Long range isn't typically conducive to taking quick snap shots unless you have an ambush setup and pretty much know where your target will be. So, only you will know what you are comfortable with and we don't discuss ethics here. Where I hunt, we can almost always get closer. So, I feel obliged to have a very certain shooting solution when we hunt long range.

    That said, and if you need to reduce your time to get on target and fire, then the 7STW may give you a slightly bigger margin for error provided it's a good shooter and will stabilize VLD bullets. Besides, who doesn't need another rifle?

    Any reticule inscribed with elevation holds that you can verify at the practice range will be faster than dialing turrets. You need sufficient reference points, but not too cluttered.

    Thirdly, you can set your zoom to 10x or less and worry less about paralax. Or, set you paralax for some reasonable distance and practice for consistent cheek weld at multiple ranges.

    The right tools are one thing. But, the right kind of practice will be the biggest challenge. ...perhaps a tour in Afghanistan? Then you don't feel so bad if you wound 'em and they run home and die. :D