Graphite Treated Barrel Test (Pics)

I work at 6 nuclear sites, where we use gallons of Neolube (formally DAG) annually.
Two things about it;
1. If you apply it to threading and screw parts together before it's fully dry, those parts will never come apart again. I've had to cut em apart.
2. Whatever you get of it on your hands, bench, floor, tools, is practically permanent. Never spill this stuff!

It would be interesting to know how it affects MV, load performance, and cleaning.
I suspect that you'll never get it out
I think I'll stick to the simple graphite then! LOL
 
I work at 6 nuclear sites, where we use gallons of Neolube (formally DAG) annually.
Two things about it;
1. If you apply it to threading and screw parts together before it's fully dry, those parts will never come apart again. I've had to cut em apart.
2. Whatever you get of it on your hands, bench, floor, tools, is practically permanent. Never spill this stuff!

It would be interesting to know how it affects MV, load performance, and cleaning.
I suspect that you'll never get it out
That does it for me.No Neolube Ever!
 
So would you not use this until a 100 or so rounds fired to break in a barrel first? Have anyone checked speed before and after?
 
So would you not use this until a 100 or so rounds fired to break in a barrel first? Have anyone checked speed before and after?
Breaking in a barrel is letting the sharp points of a barrel burnish in so it doesn't collect copper. So, I would use this before round one. I have an unfired, hand lapped premium barrel I will fire tomorrow. It is coated in graphite. Especially the throat. I shall report.

The barrel in the OP was a bear to get clean. Copper solvents for days. Now, its just an hour sit with wipeout and I see no copper fouling at all.
 
FYI...neolube and lock-eze are the same thing differing only in particle size and likely a handful of solvents < 0.1%. I don't suspect lock-eze will be any easier to remove. What is staying inside the bore is the same.
That does it for me.No Neolube Ever!
I think I'll stick to the simple graphite then! LOL
 
I have a Savage that shoots the first 5 into 5+ inches, then stacks them in little groups for a while and then starts pressuring up badly. You could mine copper from the barrel profitably I think, it is by far the worst I have ever seen. I am tempted to try this even though I have a good barrel to screw on it.....
 
I have a Savage that shoots the first 5 into 5+ inches, then stacks them in little groups for a while and then starts pressuring up badly. You could mine copper from the barrel profitably I think, it is by far the worst I have ever seen. I am tempted to try this even though I have a good barrel to screw on it.....
You would be a good tester! Get all the copper out of that copper mine, treat with HBN or graphite and see what happens...
 
can't you just get powdered graphite from any parts store and alcohol pads from any pharmacy and apply that way? we have been doing it that way with WS2 for years and from what you describe it does the same thing as graphite. also, we the graphite on inside of necks and no cold welding and smoother if you use a sizing mandrel.
 
Neolube and Lock Eze are both colloidal graphite differing only in the particle size of the graphite and carrier (solvent, solvent system, additives, etc). What's deposited on your bore when the carrier dissolves is the same; graphite. One is likely not any easier to remove than the other, is the point.
 
Neolube and Lock Eze are both colloidal graphite differing only in the particle size of the graphite and carrier (solvent, solvent system, additives, etc). What's deposited on your bore when the carrier dissolves is the same; graphite. One is likely not any easier to remove than the other, is the point.
Oh ok. Yes. I was thinking HBN and graphite.
 

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