G1–G7: Nearly had a heart attack!

Well, Gentlemen, as you can imagine, the mounts available for a 40 mm tube are somewhat more limited. However, the reactions among all of you are so uniform that I am going to call the dealer from whom I got the mounts—(plus a set of Talleys for a couple of other scopes—one a 1 inch tube and the other, a 30 mm)—and see if he will accept a return. (All are unopened.).

Pretty big return, but what the heck—he still made the dS sale.

Valdada, in Fort Worth, markets IOR scopes and one of their own—the G2 Recon—5.8-30x, (which I strongly considered until I realized it was way more scope than I needed)—many models of which have 40mm tubes—and Val carries quite a few scope mounts and rings for the size.

So if I can get a return on the Tally Mounts, I will either return to this thread or start a new one—seeking additional opinions.

Thanks to all who have commented!

Russ
 
You have to lap the rings. While they may be machined true that can change once they are bolted to the rifle. Talley told me that same **** but when I lapped them i found they had minimum contact. Now they are 100%
 
The biggest issue with lapping rings that cost $300+ is once they are lapped you will never be able to sell them for even 25% of what you paid for them.
 
There's no way I will install a scope with out lapping. Period. As soon as the compound starts cutting on Talley's you wonder why they say what they say.
Agreed, I don't care how well machined they are, how cheap, or how expensive I'm not putting one of my scopes into a set of rings that are not lapped with one exception the TPS rings which are self aligning and coated.
 
40mm tube :eek:

Just looked up that scope, some serious bit of kit there!

Whats it going on anyway if you haven't already mentioned it?
 
So as all those on this forum who breathlessly await news of my activities are no doubt aware—I dropped about 5 Gs on a new Swarovski dS and Talley 40 mm mounts.

Have not mounted it yet, but started reading through the setup instructions for the scope and the associated smart phone app called "dS Configurator." Since I will obviously be using long-range bullets with shapes benefitting from use of the G7 BC, I eagerly searched for the point in the app where you obviously have to tell the Configurator which model—G1, G7, or whatever you are inputting for your bullet of choice.

And what do you know? The program only accepts G1 BCs!!!!!!

Now of course I knew that this scope's on-board ballistic calculator works out to "only"
1,100 yards—and that is probably well beyond my personal goal of how far I intend to take shots on game.

BUT, (I assumed,) the inability to use a ballistic model best suited for modern bullets would result in major discrepancies out at 700, 800 yards, and beyond. HOW CAN THE SCOPE KNOW HOW TO CALCULATE THE CORRECT BULLET PATH? I shrieked.

I went into mild panic mode

Silly me—I finally researched the issue (as I should have done before) and found out the G1 BC is just fine for the modern whiz-bang bullets of today—out to well past the advertised 1,120 yard limit of the calculator in the the scope. Less than an inch difference between the models at 1,000 yards.

So I assume that Swarovski Optik figured why bother.
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2019/06/09/g1-vs-g7-vs-custom-drag-models/
 
I have mounted 6 or so sets of light weight Talleys on Remington's, Savage's and Weatherby's and none of them lined up enough for me to want to try and mount a scope. I want my scopes stress free especially when the scopes cost more than the gun. I always lap the Talleys and it is pretty clear they need it.

I have not needed to lap TPS mounts on aligned rails. I have converted most of my rifles to them when I can get them on a discount.
 
I have never lapped rings in my life. I buy quality rings (Nightforce, Leupold, etc.) Occasionally I will bed mounts to the receiver but only if I measure any stress or movement using dial gauges. I've never had a single scope move in the rings nor have I experienced any scope damage or accuracy issues. That is on well over 100 rifles across 50 years.

I would like to know how anybody can measure pre-lapped fit without affecting the fit. I would also like to know how post lap fit can be measured to be any better? Lapping marks prove nothing except that metal has been removed. It does not prove that the fit is improved.

I shoot benchrest, long range, and hunt. I'm in the camp that says talley rings are just fine.
 
When a manufacture makes a harsh statement like "They are a match grade rings and are perfectly round when they come off the machine." Its time run and run very quickly.

These companies are not manufacturing to Aero Space tolerances, they are NOT perfect! They are production made parts, made as quickly as possible to cut down cost.

I have yet to find a set of rings that were "perfectly round", hog wash.

I would love to hear their explaination on why not to use locktite on the rings?
 
Wheeler? Not repeatable from tests I read when they first made their splash. . . FWIW
Why the $250 for rings unless there is some sort of tacticool lazer etched name when there are Burris Signatures with 0 to 20 offset inserts. They may not have over 30 mm yet, not having anything that large, haven't had to look.
The inserts dont mar, can correct for factory out of tolerance alignment awa give elevation w/o having to change bases. I
I just can't understand the lap thing when these are available. The lapping of "precision machined rings", well, as stated, the centerline basically WILL be compromised. And yes, I've lapped more than a couple of items on an inspection plate to reasonably tight tolerances. There is more to it than first meets the eye. Also consider the inability of the home machinist to check his work.
Not using Burris insert rings is comparable to using pine poles instead of concrete pilings, imho.
;) ;)
 
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