G1–G7: Nearly had a heart attack!

[Comancheria]

So as all those on this forum who breathlessly await news of my activities are no doubt aware—I dropped about 5 Gs on a new Swarovski dS and Talley 40 mm mounts.

Have not mounted it yet, but started reading through the setup instructions for the scope and the associated smart phone app called "dS Configurator." Since I will obviously be using long-range bullets with shapes benefitting from use of the G7 BC, I eagerly searched for the point in the app where you obviously have to tell the Configurator which model—G1, G7, or whatever you are inputting for your bullet of choice.

And what do you know? The program only accepts G1 BCs!!!!!!

Now of course I knew that this scope's on-board ballistic calculator works out to "only"
1,100 yards—and that is probably well beyond my personal goal of how far I intend to take shots on game.

BUT, (I assumed,) the inability to use a ballistic model best suited for modern bullets would result in major discrepancies out at 700, 800 yards, and beyond. HOW CAN THE SCOPE KNOW HOW TO CALCULATE THE CORRECT BULLET PATH? I shrieked.

I went into mild panic mode

Silly me—I finally researched the issue (as I should have done before) and found out the G1 BC is just fine for the modern whiz-bang bullets of today—out to well past the advertised 1,120 yard limit of the calculator in the the scope. Less than an inch difference between the models at 1,000 yards.

So I assume that Swarovski Optik figured why bother.

 

[aushunter1]

Don't know about all of that but with that exxy glass I hope you are going to lap the rings before you mount the scope?

 

[joseph singleton]

Don't know about all of that but with that exxy glass I hope you are going to lap the rings before you mount the scope?

After he's done licking his wounded wallet on the 5 G's....

 

[Lefty G-gear]

Wow! - It'll work out for ya!

And I learned something today, to boot.

 

[Quicksilver338]

Don't know about all of that but with that exxy glass I hope you are going to lap the rings before you mount the scope?

better yet bed it into the rings after lapping.

 

[Comancheria]

Funny y'all should bring up the subject of lapping and (gasp!) bedding. I too have always thought that lapping was essential to a quality job--but then the last time I mounted a Leupold on .243, I used cut-up Coke can pieces for shims on the bases!.

I am something of a mechanical klutz--So I have been dreading having to think about the whole subject. "Self," I said, "shouldn't a set of rings that costs north of $250.00 and designed for a specific scope model and tube ("dS" is stamped right on the mount) be of close enough tolerances that lapping would not be necessary?

So this morning I ran a Google search on "lapping Talley scope rings". The first thing I came up with on the Talley site were these FAQs:

• Can I lap Talley mounts?

We do not recommend lapping any of our mounts. Since they are machined, it really eliminates the need to do so. Since the lightweight mounts are horizontally split, you can lap if you would like.
We highly advise against lapping our steel rings. Since they are a vertically split ring, lapping can knock them out of round.
Our Picatinny rings, although horizontal split, do not need lapped either. They are a match grade ring and are perfectly round when they come off the machine.
Note: If you lap any Talley rings, it will void any return policy since the mounts have been modified.

• Do you recommend the use of Loctite or thread locker?

Using Loctite for the screws going in the receiver is perfectly fine. We recommend using Loctite Blue 242. We do not recommend using Loctite on the ring screws.

Nothing about bedding the rings was mentioned, but I assume the answer would be the same.
I suspect I will have to bed the Pic rail, however, to the 700 action. It is level, of course with no MOA tilt. Thanks VERY much for you comments as always and best regards.

Russ

 

[Quicksilver338]

Why are some top builders bedding rings then? I buy quality rings and have never lapped or bedded, I have seen cheaper rings dig in or wear on a scope unevenly or let the scope slip.

 

[Rich Coyle]

There's no way I will install a scope with out lapping. Period. As soon as the compound starts cutting on Talley's you wonder why they say what they say.

 

[Comancheria]

Doggoneit, Rich! I had it all figured out that I wasn't going to have to do anything— and you have to go and $?!& in my punch bowl!

 

[cjl2010]

I would ditch the talleys.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Doggoneit, Rich! I had it all figured out that I wasn't going to have to do anything— and you have to go and $?!& in my punch bowl!

I love Talleys. All my light rifles have them.

 

[aushunter1]

Funny y'all should bring up the subject of lapping and (gasp!) bedding. I too have always thought that lapping was essential to a quality job--but then the last time I mounted a Leupold on .243, I used cut-up Coke can pieces for shims on the bases!.

I am something of a mechanical klutz--So I have been dreading having to think about the whole subject. "Self," I said, "shouldn't a set of rings that costs north of $250.00 and designed for a specific scope model and tube ("dS" is stamped right on the mount) be of close enough tolerances that lapping would not be necessary?

So this morning I ran a Google search on "lapping Talley scope rings". The first thing I came up with on the Talley site were these FAQs:

• Can I lap Talley mounts?

We do not recommend lapping any of our mounts. Since they are machined, it really eliminates the need to do so. Since the lightweight mounts are horizontally split, you can lap if you would like.
We highly advise against lapping our steel rings. Since they are a vertically split ring, lapping can knock them out of round.
Our Picatinny rings, although horizontal split, do not need lapped either. They are a match grade ring and are perfectly round when they come off the machine.
Note: If you lap any Talley rings, it will void any return policy since the mounts have been modified.

• Do you recommend the use of Loctite or thread locker?

Using Loctite for the screws going in the receiver is perfectly fine. We recommend using Loctite Blue 242. We do not recommend using Loctite on the ring screws.

Nothing about bedding the rings was mentioned, but I assume the answer would be the same.
I suspect I will have to bed the Pic rail, however, to the 700 action. It is level, of course with no MOA tilt. Thanks VERY much for you comments as always and best regards.

Russ

At minimum I would be checking the alignment!

 

[Rich Coyle]

If you can get two round rods with perfectly square ends that fit the rings, you can check to see if the two flat surfaces actually butt up squarely and are on the same centerline. They should look like one rod when they are touching if the rings are correct.

 

[aushunter1]

I often change scopes or when getting a new rifle I found that having the right tools a must so bit the bullet & bought this wheeler kit.
Just like if your reloading having comparators & headspace gauges etc.

It makes life so much easier & the torque wrench is also used when checking or removing/reinstalling a stock to the barreled action.
Win Win!