FL sizing 7mm

After further testing, JE Custom you were right on the mark, put in a .004 shim under the brass on top of the case holder and waaa laaa, shoulder shrank about .002-.003 and cases are fitting perfect with a nice easy bolt. Although I don't think a good annealing wouldn't hurt. Once again, thank you to all who responded!
 
After further testing, JE Custom you were right on the mark, put in a .004 shim under the brass on top of the case holder and waaa laaa, shoulder shrank about .002-.003 and cases are fitting perfect with a nice easy bolt. Although I don't think a good annealing wouldn't hurt. Once again, thank you to all who responded!

Now that you know how much you need, you could take .004" off the face of your shellholder, the part that contacts the die, and you can deprime at the same time as sizing so you don't have to do extra steps due to a shim being in the way. To me it seems easier than having to deprime, the go to the extra step to size. Do both at once.
 
Problem with that is he may be getting spring back from work hardened brass. When he does get new brass, he may be creating a headspace issue. I suggested new brass, easier than annealing and safer if you don't know how to do it properly
 
I thought he said that he only neck sized for the first 5-6 cycles. If so, there is no work hardening, just simple shoulder migration over time. Unless 40deg shoulders, bumping will always be needed -eventually.
He probably does not need body sizing either. Just shoulder bumping, like with a body die, so that he can continue bushing partial neck sizing as he has.
 
if after 5or6 firings fl sizing is not working .his brass has probably work hardened. next is inconsistant neck tension, split necks, case head seperation. he has 200 hundred cases with 5 or 6 firings. cut one in half and look at a cross section. is it getting thin in any areas. if he is trimming each time where is that brass coming from? new brass is not that expensive
 
He did not FL or size shoulders for first 5-6 cycles.
Firing does not work harden anything. It's only cycles of up/down sizing that works brass to harden it.
 
As stated above, I've only neck sized with a redding competition bushing die, I believe the brass has just reached the point as to where it just needs to be bumped in the shoulder a little. Brass is still in great shape, not shooting max loads, also as stated above once I used JE Customs idea of shimming between the holder and the case the fl die worked great and cases are running smooth. I also anneal for my fclass cases so it's not a big deal.
 
Chambers and dies vary in size and its not unusual for a rife and die to not match each other.

I have one shell holder I lapped .004 off the top for a European made Mauser .270 made in the mis 1950s.

At the Whidden custom die website they have a warning to "NOT" screw the die down to contact the shell holder. They tell you their dies are shorter than other manufactures and start high off the shell holder and adjust downward.

WARNING
Failure to adhere with below warning could result in damaged and unsafe brass!

The Whidden Gunworks Sizer Die is engineered with a shorter overall length (OAL) compared to other manufactures of sizer dies. This means you can set the shoulder back further if desired based on your specific application. This die is not intended to be used while bottomed out or screwed flush with the shell plate. Doing so will result in the shoulder being set back too far, possibly rendering the casing unusable. During initial setup screw the die flush with the shell plate then back off 1-1 ½ turns, NOTE: Each full turn of the Sizer is approx. .071" so it does not have to be turned very far to make a noticeable adjustment. Instructions are included with each die set and can also be found at www.whiddengunworks.com-reloading-dies-instructions.

NOTE, also at the Whidden website they have click adjustable resizing dies for cartridge headspace.
http://www.whiddengunworks.com/click-adjustable-sizer-die/


What I find humorous is at the savageshooters website when the home gunsmiths change barrels and use a new unfired case as a headspace gauge and they run into trouble. Their first post is "My FL resized case will not fit my chamber." This is because they put one layer of scotch tape on the bottom of a new case thinking it will be the equivalent of a GO gauge and comes up much too short.

On the flip side of this I have a Lee FL .223 die that sizes the cases smaller in diameter and pushes the shoulder back further than my RCBS small base die.

Bottom line, a Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge will tell you far more than a Wilson type case gauge. And with "most" resizing dies Redding competition shell holders or using a feeler gauges between the die and shell holder is the norm.

Just remember with resizing dies nothing is written in stone and dies do vary in diameter and headspace length.
 
if after 5or6 firings fl sizing is not working .his brass has probably work hardened. next is inconsistant neck tension, split necks, case head seperation. he has 200 hundred cases with 5 or 6 firings. cut one in half and look at a cross section. is it getting thin in any areas. if he is trimming each time where is that brass coming from? new brass is not that expensive

He has probably never had to trim his brass yet as he is only neck sizing with bushings. I'm running 300 WM brass on its 7th firing and did a body/shoulder bump after the 6th firing and my brass has only grown .005" over trim length. He probably is to the point that he needs to anneal though. Even just neck sizing with a bushing is going to work harden the brass. Just not as fast as dragging an expander ball back through.
 
He has probably never had to trim his brass yet as he is only neck sizing with bushings. I'm running 300 WM brass on its 7th firing and did a body/shoulder bump after the 6th firing and my brass has only grown .005" over trim length. He probably is to the point that he needs to anneal though. Even just neck sizing with a bushing is going to work harden the brass. Just not as fast as dragging an expander ball back through.
Gord0, you right on as well, haven't needed to trim yet either, length is still good to go. Sounds like your 300 and my 7 work the brass about the same! And yes, annealing is next.
 
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