I make my own brakes,and garentee as good or better accuracy.I have the customer load 20 rounds... all identical.Do a B-4 and after test.They HAVE to be put on STRAIGHT...I`ve used Stainless steel,mild steel,aluminum,and delrin....They all work.Some times they`ll change POI.But only IF they change barrel harmonics in a negative way,you have to weight differently..
I just sent my Tikka back to Beretta with a quailty muzzle brake on it. I was not getting the quality of groups I was getting with my Sako TRG 22 and the Tikka was supposed to be a tack driver right out of the box. My Tikka contennintal long range hunter was a 300WM and was shooting 2-4" groups at 100 yards. I put a muzzle brake on it and it helped a little since I was not being beat to death each time I pulled the trigger. I sent it back and wanted to know if beretta would fix it since it had a brake put on it or blame the group size on me for putting on a brake? Has anyone had experence with Beretta? Please reply.
I wonder-
If ports were EDM cut into the last few inches(like shotguns), couldn't some of the muzzle pressure be relieved, prior to bullet exit?
This hopefully, without stripping/buildup of jacket material.
I have had this type of experience with Stoeger the Sako distributor for Canada, the main difference being that if the rifle will not shoot 1" with factory ammo they replace it no questions asked. I have had 2 308 WarBirds replaced the last one shot 6-8" with the brake on and 1 3/4" with it off. I don't know what happened to Sako's barrel's but my friends 338 Hunter 75 is shooting 6" groups at 100yds now, my sons 300WSM tikka has a mile of free bore and will only shoot 1 1/4" with 200gr Accubonds nothing else. Stoeger replaced both WarBirds no questions asked even though I had the brake installed, maybe it had something to do with my e-mailing Sako in Finnland to bitch!