Correct board for how 2 build LHR rifle ???s

[ARTJR338WM]

Before I begin I wish to confirm that this board is the correct place to post my many questions for advice on how to build a LRH rifle sutable for ranges of 800yrds. I chose 800yrds as the only long range shooting facility I know of that is close enough to me to be of practicle use has a max 750 yard range.

This build will be as afordable as possable and still acheive my goals.

Ever since my last two trips to WY elk hunting where I was able to consistantly hit targets as small as a empty Coleman fuel can at 500 yrds I have been bitten badly with the long range bug. I still have that fuel can in my basement. I hit it seven times out of 10 shots using a large bolder and my pack as a improvised rest. And even the misses would have resulted in a dead elk. As near as I can figure my 10 shot 500 yard group measured approx 7.5" in vertical spread by about 8.75" horizontal spread. All three of my misses were no more than 2.5 inches from the right edge of the fuel can. I had no misses off the can in terms of vertical spread.

Bottom line is if I had been shooting at a bull all ten shots would have been in his lungs. I was shooting a M700 in 338wm at the time toped with a older now discontinued Leupold 4-12x40mm VX-III.

My last trip elk hunting in WY also ramed home the need for me to be able to shoot at as long a range as I am capable of doing under field conditions. As on the seventh day of my rifle hunt I spotted a small 6x6 right at the last 15 or so minuets of shooting light. He was well over 1000 yrds away. I was able to get a little over 600 yards from him, but that was it as the topagraphy coupled with I was on the sunny side of the drainage, made getting any closer with out getting busted by the dozen or more other elk with him impossible. Now I was not even considering shooting him, but I was trying to get with in my effective range just incase a shooter bull steped out. I sat there thinking how helpless I would have been if a big ol dusty bull had steped out. One never did. If one had, I would have simply had to watch him as I ran out of day light. Now if I had with me a rifle and a set shooting skills capable to 800yrds, I could have if conditions allowed made a shot on a big ol bull. This exact situation befell my hunting partner on this same trip, except this time it was a big ol bull and he had to let him go as he could not shoot to the distance the bull was at of a little over 500yrds.



Thanks,

Arthur.

 

[Buffalobob]

If you are comfortable with a 338 for an elk rifle then that is a good start. At least it eliminates the discussion of caliber. If you reload then you might go with a 338 Edge. If you don't reload then it is time to start.

So you have an R 700 action which can be accurazied and fitted with a new barrel, stock and trigger. There are lots of good barrel makers out there such as Lilja, Rock Broughton, McGowan, Krieger. Pretty much just toss a coin a pick one. Barrel length is usually a factor of weight and cartridge efficiency. Lots of good stocks available such as Macmillian if you like synthetic and Russo is you like laminated. A lot depends upon your preference. Several triggers to choose from such as Jewel or Timminey and probably set it at about 2-3 pounds.

Brand of scope is a long discussion but some things are pretty well established. If you are going to hunt in the open then a scope in the 6-20X range and if you will spend a significant amount of time in the timber then reduce it to a 4X-14X. Out to 800 yards it will not matter a lot.

As far as gunsmiths, there are several that are sponsor here and can build what you want.

 

[AJ Peacock]

+1 everthing BB says.

One additional thought. If you don't reload "YET", you could turn it into a 338 RUM and get factory ammo. The 338RUM is a significant step up in power from the 338wm.

AJ

 

[liltank]

My suggestion would be to stick with the 338WM and load with a premium 225grn-250grn bullet. With good hand loads and a proper barrel you would have a legit 1000yd rifle. Get the action trued, put a good barrel on around 28". Get a good sturdy aftermarket stock. If you want affordable, I will suggest Bell & Carlson. Manners should get a look as well as H-S Precision. Manners and McMillian are your top of the line. To get started with optics, you could send your Leupy back to the factory and get turrets put on and a different reticule to aid in long range. From my experience with the VXIII, they have good glass. 14x would be better, but for elk 12x should be good to go.

Tank

 

[ARTJR338WM]

Great thanks for the replies so far. To answer a few questions, yes I do reload, have been for over 20yrs, and I have never shot factory ammo out of any of my rifles except for my .22s. The short version of the load I was shooting on my last WY elk trip was:

225 grain Nosler Accubonds
75.5 grains of RL-19 mildly compressed
New fired 1X only in my M700 WIN brass necked sized only
FED 215m primers
All aspects of reloads uniformed as close to exact from round to round as possable
I do not recall amount of run out but it was a complete non-factor.

As much as I love my M700 in 338wm and trust me I do, I very much wish to build a new rifle so I will have something to do and a new rifle to develope loads for = lots more shooting.

Although I am still in the resurch phase only, based on articles and product evals I have read here I am considering these components for my build keep in mind this is simply what is my basic needs are based on my at this time limited knowledge and I have a limited budget.

<>Stainless Savage 116 long action W/Accutrigger I already have one in my gunsafe I aquierd for $100 in mint NIB condition.
<>Caliber eithor 300WM, 338WM, as I wish to keep the recoil down so I can keep the weight down as well, but if I deside on a caliber like 338UM I guess I could go with a brake.
<>Stock by B&C or HS in BDL
<>Stainless barrel most likely by PN or Llija 26-28" Rate of twist to be determined
<>Optics likely a Huskma Blue Ice
<>Lastly a compitent smith to assemble my componernts, bed the action and any other component to maximize the rifles accuracy potential

So what do those more knowledgeable than I think of my choice of components, and where are some good places to get prices for them.

I must first deside on the components of the rifle and their cost before progressing to the next phase of finding a smith.

As I said, I am still in the development stage so try not to laugh to hard at some of my selections as my knowledge is limited. Also keep in mind for all suggestions I have a limited budget.

Or is the best place to start with a actual gun smith who can guide me through the selection process in the first place.

As a side note, what type of MV can be gotten with 338RUM using 250grn bullets?
I know the 338RUM takes something like 20% (guessing here) or more powder than my 338WM can. I can get over 2800 MV with my 338WM and 225 Accubonds, so I would be interested in what a 338RUM can push a 250grn bullet with hot reload that is still with in safe pressure limits. I thinking at least 2850 or so.

Thanks,

Arthur.

 

[AJ Peacock]

...

As a side note, what type of MV can be gotten with 338RUM using 250grn bullets?
I know the 338RUM takes something like 20% (guessing here) or more powder than my 338WM can. I can get over 2800 MV with my 338WM and 225 Accubonds, so I would be interested in what a 338RUM can push a 250grn bullet with hot reload that is still with in safe pressure limits. I thinking at least 2850 or so.

Thanks,

Arthur.

I ran some numbers in QuickLoad and with 26" barrel you'd probably top out at 2840 or so unless you want to really push some pressures. With a 28" you'd probably get 35-40fps or so more with a 250gr pill. The guys actually using a 338Rum will be able to tell you more. I shoot a 338Edge on a Savage platform with a 28" barrel and get 2750fps with the 300gr Sierra Match King.

If you are building on a Savage platform and have patience, you could do the entire build yourself.

AJ

 

[liltank]

If you are building on a Savage platform and have patience, you could do the entire build yourself.

AJ

+1. The Savage will save you money because you can do it by yourself at home. For the Savage action I would suggest looking at Stockade Stocks. Kevin Rayhill the owner specializes in stocks for Savage rifles. I have used one of his stocks. They are top notch and will be my next stock purchase for my next Savage build. If money is something to be concerned with, you can purchase a money saver stock from Stockade that will allow you to purchase a stock that is already bedded and just needs skim coated with filler and painted. This gives you a blank canvas to work with and saves a considerable amount of money over an ordered finished stock.

I would also suggest one of Kevin's lift kits for the Savage bolt assembly. It smooths the lift action and lightens it a little bit. You could order a prethreaded barrel for you Savage and screw it on. If you use a break, you will need a gunsmith to install and time the break if it is a directional ported break. If it is a standard break with holes all around it, then you could have the barrel thread to fit the break you want and screw it all together yourself. Since you have the accu-trigger, you won't need to purchase an aftermarket trigger.

As far as caliber is concerned, that is up to you. The RUM would definitely be the better option. I wouldn't bother with 250's. I would load the 300 Berger OTM. They are wreaking havoc in the midwest on Elk, Mulies, Whitetail, and Pronghorns at all distances. Pushing a 300 SMK or Berger at 2750 will give you really good ballistics to as far as you feel comfortable shooting.

With that said, I believe the 300WM and the Berger 215 or 230 bullet will perform admirably to 1000yds on anything you want to poke. You'll want a minimum of a 26" barrel. If you want to get into new optics, Vortex gets the nod from me. I have the Vortex Viper 6.5-20x44 w/target dot. It is a great scope. Clear glass and very good turrets. I'm a turret twiddler, so I don't play with ballistic reticules.

When you order parts, make sure you get a precision ground target recoil lug. They are perfectly flat and thicker than the stamped OEM recoil lug. If it has the smooth barrel nut, I would suggest taking it off and getting the notched barrel nut. Let me know if you have any questions about assembly. I have put a couple Savages together. My current .308 shoots .25MOA regularly to 800yds.

Barrels I am going to suggest Lothar Walther. I took the suggestion from a guy who built Savages for he and his wife. They both use Lothar barrels and have won a few F-class competitions this past year. I put together a 300WSM with a factory Savage barrel for my cousin that shoots .5-.75MOA too.

Tank

 

[ARTJR338WM]

Thanks again for the superb information. You guys have realy succeded in giving me the long range bug, ESPECIALLY since I can acheive my goals using a afordable platform like the Savage.

Its going to take some more time to get me up and going as I have still much to deside before i commence building, but thanks for pointing me in the right direction(s)

I must worn you all though be prepaired for more than a ferw requests for advice and help as I move this project along.

Be well and take time this X-Mass to give thanks for all this greatest of nation we live in has given us.

Be well,

Arthur

 

[liltank]

Thanks again for the superb information. You guys have realy succeded in giving me the long range bug, ESPECIALLY since I can acheive my goals using a afordable platform like the Savage.

Its going to take some more time to get me up and going as I have still much to deside before i commence building, but thanks for pointing me in the right direction(s)

I must worn you all though be prepaired for more than a ferw requests for advice and help as I move this project along.

Be well and take time this X-Mass to give thanks for all this greatest of nation we live in has given us.

Be well,

Arthur

No problem. We'll all be here to answer your questions.