falconew
Well-Known Member
I tried the V block today. Was a pain trying to hold it and rotate it. Found some small bearings and going to make some roller V blocks. Already have a drop indicator stand.
Concentricity gage
- Thread starter falconew
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RUFFIAN R - NY
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L.E.Wilson straight dies and bushings is the way to go. All my custom's are with there dies and custom cut to the chamber all at the same time- same person.
misterc01
Well-Known Member
I usa both the RCBS and Hornady gauges.
RUFFIAN R - NY
Well-Known Member
also a good set of dies and press would aid in concentricity issues, set up being a problem
The Hornady tool is easy to use and it also provides a corrective pusher. It took me a little time to get on to it but I wouldn't use any other now. With light neck tension correcting run out is a snap.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
IMO if you're having to correct runout with the Hornady tool, you have a problem in an earlier process.
I use one as well, I didn't like the screw marring the bullet jacket so I modified a cap nut and that fixed it. I do agree with others that preventing runout is much better than correcting it. On RCBS full length dies, an O-ring on the threads of the decapping pin helps greatly against runout.
xsn10s
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I use that one too.
falconew
Well-Known Member
I have the hornady match dies with a 365 bushing in it and a brand new Frankfort arsenal coaxial press. Will make a dummy or two and check them out
nksmfamjp
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Did it make your loads shoot better? It made mine shot worse and I adjusted to nearly zero tir.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
And most importantly you have good brass to start with that's more likely straight now before it's handled, rather than some being pickled right out of the box.
You are on a good track, once you get your sled running check the brass at each step and you can see where/if any problems come up.Managing concentricity is a process, it's something where you can't really fix it - you have to work to not add it.
I use LE Wilson "new" brass mandrels on all new cases. Some guys FL size new brass (backed off to not touch the shoulder hopefully), but I don't even pull buttons back through my necks so I use the mandrel up front. Rounds the necks out, evens them out, sets them up for a good chamfer and deburr. Don't trim new out of the box cases, they'll get uneven again as the shoulders fill out completely.
Loaded runout is +/-0.001 on a bad day, trim length is +/-0.005" or so and the cases have never once seen a trimmer.
RUFFIAN R - NY
Well-Known Member
Rushing the loading process, will not help in the concentricity issue- take your time in the bullet seating process and don't just jump the bullet in !! feel the bullet, be the bullet .
I have the hornady and 21st century concentricity tools. The hornady tool has enough slop in it that without turning the case I can throw it out by .006 just by moving the shaft. Ive stopped using it. Before using one, I always check the case body for straightness. Ive found cases with quite a bit of runout measured at the body just behind the shoulder which is where the v-block or bearing is. This translated into even more neck runout. The best concentricity gauge in the world is useless without a true body to run on. Like Texan said, I went with Wilson dies and haven't touched a concentricity gauge since. Good quality dies make concentricity a non issue
misterc01
Well-Known Member
I use mine mostly for checking the concentricity. If I am more than 3 thou out. I might nudge it with the Hornady, but that is very seldom.
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