Calculating Cost per Round

[WilBloodworth]

Yes, I know this topic has come up before but hey, let's do it again... it's been a few years.

Possible example (mine) of an initial Investment for first time reloader (let's exclude equipment for this discussion):
(4) pounds of powder [shipped to my door]: $180 <-- 28,000 grains total
(100) 140g Hornady ELD M bullets: ~$45
(100) 6.5 CM Lapua brass [shipped to my door]: ~127
(1000) CCI #400 SRP primers [shipped to my door]: ~$105

Let's just calculate the cost for 100 rounds (since that is the most I can load with the grocery list above). After putting the data into a calculator, the min is 40 grains and the max is 44 so let's just go with a middle-of-the-road load and use 42 grains.

For 100 rounds, we would need 4200 grains of powder. That's $27 for powder ($180 / 28000 * 4200 = $27).
Primers are 10.5 c each so 100 would be $10.50.
Bullets are simply $45
Casings are $127 (but they'll be reused)
Reload cost (reusing spent casings) would be $82.50 total or $0.82.5 per round
Load cost (including casing cost) would be $209.50 total or $2.10 per round

Given that I can probably wait (now) and find things when they are in stock or on sale, I can probably end up getting primers/powder at more reasonable prices and I can probably avoid shipping/HAZMAT fees altogether.

OTC 6.5 CM rounds (that I've seen) can be found as low as $1.50 so let's assume that is the "best price" as of today.

I've read the average number of times you can reload a casing is between 40 and 50. I have no idea if this is accurate but let's go with the best-case scenario of 50. Even with having to buy new casings every 50 reloads, the average cost per round still works out to $0.85. Therefore, I am saving (AT LEAST) $0.65 per trigger pull (ignoring the initial equipment costs).

Do I have that about right or am I missing something?

BUT... if I factor in an equipment cost of $500 (probably low), I have to shoot 770 rounds to break even.

- Wil

 

[Ucsdryder]

Nope. Once I have the components then it's "free". Go shoot and enjoy not grabbing that last round from a 20 round box thinking about how much it cost to shoot a box of ammo (factory).

 

[Ol' Red]

Nope. Once I have the components then it's "free". Go shoot and enjoy not grabbing that last round from a 20 round box thinking about how much it cost to shoot a box of ammo (factory).

That's what my kids all think.

 

[Mark37082]

Don't do it. I posted a similar thread awhile back and it did nothing but depress me. Load ''em and shoot 'em. It will be what it will be.

 

[Ol' Red]

I do have to figure out the cost of some 30-06 rounds that I will be loading for a buddy. That goes against everything I think about loading for someone else. Since he won't be there helping, the cost will be figured at today's component cost not the cost when I got them. I guess I will have to actually add it up. Probably add the cost of a bottle of Pendleton with that.

 

[WilBloodworth]

I do have to figure out the cost of some 30-06 rounds that I will be loading for a buddy. That goes against everything I think about loading for someone else. Since he won't be there helping, the cost will be figured at today's component cost not the cost when I got them. I guess I will have to actually add it up. Probably add the cost of a bottle of Pendleton with that.

Hopefully, Pendleton Directors" Reserve.

 

[ShtrRdy]

If cost per round wasn't bad enough, consider the cost of a new barrel installed for a bore burner. I had to replace the barrel on a 22-250 last year after about 850 rounds. $700 for the tube and gunsmith work -- $0.82 per shot.

 

[cdherman]

If you just want to kill some meat, and don't have the need for precision reloaded rounds, and don't enjoy practicing, and don't enjoy reloading, then don't do it. I think if you answer yes to 2 out of three of my other criteria, then even with today jacked prices, it makes sense.

Primers are still the bottle neck. If you are starting out, then buy a nice lot of factory rounds (find some Lapua) shoot them and save the brass. Get say 140 or 160. Unless you are really blasting, those should keep you shooting for a little while. Make sure they are all one lot. Not just same brand, but same load and lot. You'll get better matched brass that way. Then you will have a supply of already formed brass to your gun when the primer prices finally subside.

My thoughts.

Oh, and you will not 50 loadings out of most brass. With anealing, light loads, proper sizeing, and the right cartridge, you *might* get 20. Lots of basic brass is dead after 5-8 loads. Some less.

 

[cornshank]

If cost per round wasn't bad enough, consider the cost of a new barrel installed for a bore burner. I had to replace the barrel on a 22-250 last year after about 850 rounds. $700 for the tube and gunsmith work -- $0.82 per shot.

Yeah, or a new scope ,or barrel threaded for a break , or new break, or a stock , the list goes on .
So I use the , (it's free , after I the components ) thinking.
I don't want to know cost per round , but I do know what is in every round.

 

[FEENIX]

Life is too short to sweat the cost of reloading.

 

[ColoradoElkHunter]

Life is too short to sweat the cost of reloading.

Same can be said for hunting versus meat from the butcher shop and most fishing adventures too!

 

[xsn10s]

I try to get things at a good price. That helps with the overall cost. And I'll use blems/ 2nds brass or bullets. I only use top tier components for special big game hunts or specialized high priority ammo. At least since the this recent component crunch. I've lived through several of them.

 

[FEENIX]

Same can be said for hunting versus meat from the butcher shop and most fishing adventures too!

Yep!

 

[xsn10s]

It's kinda funny. When I first got into loading the match bullets were some of the cheapest ones. Cheaper than many hunting bullets. It's because they are some of the easiest to make.