Bullet seating depth help

@rsmithsr
If I load to 2.26 as per the manual, I will only have .1875 in the neck (counting the boat tail of the bullet). Everyone has me scared about sticking a bullet in the barrel or something.

Guess as a new reloader, I should have started with an easier bullet than this little 40 gr.

Thanks,
Steve
 
have you tried to see how long a cartrifge will chamber without sticking a bullet ?
put a bullet in an empty case a 2.260 and chamber it.

@rsmithsr
If I load to 2.26 as per the manual, I will only have .1875 in the neck (counting the boat tail of the bullet). Everyone has me scared about sticking a bullet in the barrel or something.

Guess as a new reloader, I should have started with an easier bullet than this little 40 gr.

Thanks,
Steve
 
I'm not worried about getting a loaded round to stick into the lands as my distance to lands is 2.3085. I'm worried about the amount of neck tension the little 40 will have at 2.26 OAL.
 
OK boomflop, I'm give you my humble opinion on this, I been loading and shooting my 22-250 for 17 years and you know what? Till this post I never so much as gave a thought to how far in the case it was seated. I just went down and checked it and I use 50gr boattails that are .774 long they are seated in the neck .134. You couldn't pull one out with your fingers if you tried, I did. Heres what I do with every rifle I load for.. I put the bullet in a dummy case (one of the cases you use, just no powder or primer) for that caliber. Seat it in your seater but leave it hang out nice and long. Then gently close it in your chamber and close the bolt, Than pull it back out with the bolt and measure the overall length. Write it down and take your inertia hammer and bang the cartridge out long again and cycle it into the chamber again. Do this 12 times and write down each OAL. You will notice as you break the neck tension a little it will start to record the same OAL the last 6-8 times. This is OAL to the lands in your gun, Now I never run into the lands I always start about .030 and load 3 rounds then .027..then .024 and keep going down till you hit a barrel node that the groups calm down and tighten up. As you keep going they will start to open back up. Now close them down to .001 on both sides of the tightest groups and fine tune it in. You should have your powder type and charge already tuned in so you can use this as your final step. You will stick a bullet when its in the lands and you try to pull it out sometimes but never if its not touching. Into the lands shoots up pressure also. With 22 CF's I've always ended up around .020-.025 off lands. You will be OK and find where your gun shoots best. 17 years and never a bullet falling out or anything .134 into the case honest. That made my fingers hurt typing all that :) Dave
 
Last edited:
Thanks Dave! I'm new and sometimes the more questions I ask the more confused and conflicting information that ultimately makes me question my decision to start reloading due to concerns of safety.

I used the Hornady overall length gauge and found my lands at 2.3085. So even at 2.26, that would keep me .0485 off lands, so I should be safe to mag length. I was just concerned with having too little neck tension and having a bullet not exit the muzzle or something stupid. I'm gonna load them up and pull the trigger with my eyes closed for the first time. LOL
 
If you're solely relying on manuals, or the guesses of others, you're lost with basic reloading.
You should pick up a good how-to reloading book, and learn how to fish instead of just asking for fish..
 
Mikecr,

How is a "how to reload" book going to answer my question? Wouldn't that book state the same caliber into the neck as a manual does? Yet they load with less than the recommended into the neck. Is it written by smarter people than those that write owners manuals?

Maybe teach, instead of putting me down. I'm guessing by 5000 posts with no started threads and my research on Accurate Shooter (your posts) you know everything....so reach out to me as other members have instead of being a wise guy.

Thanks anyway,
Steve
 
How is a "how to reload" book going to answer my question? Wouldn't that book state the same caliber into the neck as a manual does?
No, I'm not suggesting a reloading manual, but a book on HOW TO RELOAD.
And I didn't intend to put you down. I'm sorry to come off like that.

I would like to motivate you to think for yourself -with understanding.
Consider this; If you understood this area of reloading, you could figure out the answer.
In contrast, asking around for answers will not help you understand.
You'll get hearsay, folklore, mob murmur, and crazytown,, so who will you believe?
It's not really helping

This is a good how-to-reload source. It's not going to tell you where to seat your bullets, but it will tell you how to figure that out. It will help you solve problems (yourself) easily, or I'll buy the book from you when you're done with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/096269259X/?tag=lrhmag19-20
 
Last edited:
Steve, we all learn from someone and there is nothing wrong with that. I learned from an old gunsmith who had learned from someone else before that. Book learning has its place and so does learning from others who are willing to share. The more you do it the more it will come natural, Just remember you can determine where your lands start in your barrel and the rest is trying different distance's off the lands. The rifle will tell you what it likes, it will respond as you get to the sweet spot. Start with a most accurate powder suggestion for your caliber from a good loading manual (I like the nosler) start low charge and work your way up watching how it groups and looking for pressure signs as you get towards high charge weight. At some point it will group the best, I do a couple different powders and find the best. When you get a powder the gun likes with a charge weight the gun also likes with a bullet you want to use(V Maxes are good in 22's) than you do the distance off lands and fine tune as tight as it will group. Last try several primers CCI, Winchester, Federal (I like benchrest and match primers best) and it will usually respond to a certain primer. In a nutshell that will get you to a pretty accurate load, you can work up several load combos, its a lot of fun developing your own load for your gun. After a while you'll be telling or showing someone else how to do it. Nobody on here just suddenly knew it all, Its a process. Don't stop, let it become second nature, its accomplishment - fun - and it really opens up shooting and hunting horizons. Dave
 
What got me nervous other than the guideline of one caliber in the neck was this quote about stuck bullets in the barrel:
Trust the manual for the bullet you are using, those who wrote it spent lots of time and money to prepare it. If you want to experiment, have fun and expect to have a few bullets stuck in the barrel, been there done that (not on a 223)
I took it as not enough or too much bullet in the neck will cause the bullet not to exit the barrel (stuck), however, now I'm thinking he was referring to jammed.

I have the process down. Have $1500 in tools (it's a start), however, the safety side of me tells me to ask questions about what I don't know or doesn't make sense first.

I have ran 100 pc through a .222 Sinclair mandrel, trimmed just enough off with my Sinclair Micrometer trimmer to clean up the ends. Chamfer and debur with Sinclair hand too. Primed with CCI BR4 primers......now I'm going to start at Noslers minimum and work up .2 to max and see how it shakes out.
 
Sounds like you're on top of things, should shoot well. Sorry didn't know you were already advanced well past the second post ;) Love them CCI BR primers they are so consistent. Good Shooting!
 
I definetely wouldn't call my self advanced by any stretch. However, I have done 3 years worth of research (reading books, watching videos and reading forums). I have the process in my mind, now it is putting that information to the finished product.

Thanks for your help Sir!

Steve
 
...I have the process down. Have $1500 in tools (it's a start), however, the safety side of me tells me to ask questions about what I don't know or doesn't make sense first...
I definetely wouldn't call my self advanced by any stretch. However, I have done 3 years worth of research (reading books, watching videos and reading forums)...

I think Mikecr is used to "know just enough to be dangerous", and based on your posts around here, you're in the category of "know enough to know what I don't know".

That's a good thing.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top