I loaded some Bergers today and at the range it took a lot of force to pull the case out after I fired a round. Like it took me a few minutes of pulling to get the brass out. I cloed the bolt on a loaded round and didnt shoot the bullet and tried ejecting the round. Same thing happened where it took extensive force and a few minutes to relase the bullet. Something is terribly wrong please help.
Bullet eject issue
- Thread starter teampete
- Start date
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Broz
Well-Known Member
Either your brass is improperly sized, or cases / chamber is dirty. Or the bullet is seated so long that it s being forced into the rifling as you close the bolt.
Are you using Lee collet dies? if so are there ridges on the necks from the die?
Start with these thing to check first.
Jeff
Are you using Lee collet dies? if so are there ridges on the necks from the die?
Start with these thing to check first.
Jeff
Kevin Thomas
Well-Known Member
Teampete,
Neck sizing by any chance? Any other signs of pressure upon firing the round? Ejector marks? A loose primer pocket when you went to decap? I'd start by resizing the brass, full length, and verifying that it chambers easily before proceeding to charging or bullet seating. Go from there, and you'll figure out what the problem is here.
Neck sizing by any chance? Any other signs of pressure upon firing the round? Ejector marks? A loose primer pocket when you went to decap? I'd start by resizing the brass, full length, and verifying that it chambers easily before proceeding to charging or bullet seating. Go from there, and you'll figure out what the problem is here.
Yes i am neck sizing with a lee collet die. I did everything the same with some nosler ammo and everything was fine. ONly difference was that the nosler was put into brass that was only shot twice and the bergers were put into brass shot 3 times. I think the brass body has grown from 2nd to 3rd shot? What do you all think? If I FL size it, is the brass still good and usable. Its winchester brass
boomtube
Well-Known Member
Check the neck diameter of a fired case, then chek the neck of a loaded round. The loaded round should be at least 3-4 thou smaller than the fired neck.
If there isn't a difference, or it's backward, you have a bomb with bullets held squeezed in place in the chamber neck and massive pressure is what's making the fired cases stick.
If there isn't a difference, or it's backward, you have a bomb with bullets held squeezed in place in the chamber neck and massive pressure is what's making the fired cases stick.
When I got home today I cycled the fired brass and it stuck in the chamber and took excessive force to pull it out. I FL sized it and then cycled it through and it was very nice smooth. Obviously the brass was flaring up somewhere below the neck. Anyways I will FL size them all. Is this brass still usable?? How do I know when brass is no longer good to use. They have only be reloaded about 3 times. Also, I have some primed brass that I will need to FL size. When those primers get knocked out, are they still usable?? I would hate to loss any 215M primers seeing how I cant find them anywhere,
justgoto
Well-Known Member
It seems that it isn't hard to chamber but hard to extract. If that is the case, that is odd.
I would use the brass again if there is no sign of case head separation, or splits in the neck, or loose primer pockets.
case head separation:
You can use a wire to feel the inside of the case for a crack about there. That is a 30-06 case.
I'd keep the primers.
I would try to determine the cause of the stuck case; maybe the loads are too hot?
I would use the brass again if there is no sign of case head separation, or splits in the neck, or loose primer pockets.
case head separation:
You can use a wire to feel the inside of the case for a crack about there. That is a 30-06 case.
I'd keep the primers.
Why don't you adjust the decapping pin so it won't push the primer out. I have never been comfortable pushing out live primers anyway.
Kevin Thomas
Well-Known Member
Teampete,
Yes, the brass is perfectly usable, even if you F/L resize them every time you fire them. In fact, that's what I recommend. Use a case gage or a bump gage to make sure you're not setting the shoulder back too far, but that smooth easy chambering is what you're after. Trust me, it'll save you some headachaes and frustration down the road.
Yes, the brass is perfectly usable, even if you F/L resize them every time you fire them. In fact, that's what I recommend. Use a case gage or a bump gage to make sure you're not setting the shoulder back too far, but that smooth easy chambering is what you're after. Trust me, it'll save you some headachaes and frustration down the road.
Thanks for all the info everyone. I am almosy certain its not from pressure because when I cycle a round and don't actually shoot it, it still sticks. After shooting it a few times the brass has expanded too far.
I always thought neck sizing would give me better accuracy and longer brass life??
I have a lee fl length die. Do I just adjust the top of the die to bring in the decap pin??
Lastly, how do I partially fl size or is that not recomended? I took my calipers to the very base of my case near the belt and that's where there was a difference in case size. So I am pretty sure that's where it was catching. If I partial size will the belt area not get sized?
Again thank you everyone.
I always thought neck sizing would give me better accuracy and longer brass life??
I have a lee fl length die. Do I just adjust the top of the die to bring in the decap pin??
Lastly, how do I partially fl size or is that not recomended? I took my calipers to the very base of my case near the belt and that's where there was a difference in case size. So I am pretty sure that's where it was catching. If I partial size will the belt area not get sized?
Again thank you everyone.
boomtube
Well-Known Member
"I always thought neck sizing would give me better accuracy and longer brass life??"
Yeah, that is standard web/magizine/gunshop/campfire B.S. Just FL size your cases.
Yeah, that is standard web/magizine/gunshop/campfire B.S. Just FL size your cases.
If it sticks just while cycling something is way wrong. Does it stick with factory loads? Any marks on the case? Stick to basics (ie fl resizing) and work up to more complicated later. As for campfire b.s.... depends on your application.
