Boresighting Methods

[Roktoys84]

What is the preferred method/equipment used for boresighting?

 

[britz]

I'm very much a novice at the long range gig, but I simply start at the 50 yard line. Pull the bolt out and sight through the bore, then put the scope on the same target. Gets me on paper at 50, then I adjust from there to the 200 yard line. I don't believe in the bore scope to be honest, but that is just me.

 

[Tbone]

target

I have a Redfield target (leveled) taped to a wall in the loading room, placed about 20' from the muzzle of my rifle. I use the Wheeler Level-level-level system to get the rifle and scope level together, then bore-sight the center of the target and dial-in the scope. Most of the time, I'm not off over a couple of inches at 100 yards.

Works for me .

Jim

 

[uncleB]

The Wheeler level-level-level system sounds like quite a system, never heard of it and not exactly pickin' up on how it works. lets have a bit more info on this system
UB

 

[Tbone]

Level- ..

The Wheeler "Level-level-level" product can be seen on the MidwayUSA site as product #529349. They explain how it works better than I probally could as well as show pic.


Jim

 

[J E Custom]

I bore site like britz ,Only at 100yrds using a standard round
pistol bullseye (Black center) target to site through the bore.

Remove the bolt , set the rifle on sandbags or a good rest,look
down the bore and center the black bullseye and adjust the
scope. you may have to repeat this process several times if
you move the rifle .

It helps to use a 4' x4' piece of rapping paper as a backstop for
the target.

After you do it a couple of times you will get better. I normaly
get within 6 or 8" of center.

The reason I bore site this way is because I wont put anything
in the muzzel of a rifle in fear of damaging the crown.

On semi autos / lever actions and pumps I go to 25 or 50yrds
and start because of being unable to look down the barrel.

Just one way to sight in.
J E CUSTOM

 

[Natty Bumpo]

I bought a Busnell magnetic boresighter a while back. I had my doubts about it when I got it. It's held to the muzzle by a magnet, but you can slide it around left-right, up-down, etc. So how can it be worth a darn if it's not in a fixed position, right? Well I've used it twice on new scopes. I put a yardstick across the scope's objective and parallel to the barrel. I try to get the top of the collimator in line with the top of the scope's objective. Then I eyeball the left-right orientation and try to get it as "plumb" as I can. Then I look through the scope and center the reticle on the collimator. Both times I've been on paper when I took it to the range.

 

[Gene]

Just read an article in gun magazine (Rifle Shooter). The writer (Boddington I think) said he has tried all the bore sighters, and he still finds the set target at 25 yards and bore sight to be the best. I have Leupold and Bushnell. They don't get you any closer than his method.

 

[overbore]

A quickie

that works for me is to get the scope and reticle level, accurately measure the scope height above the bore C/L, hit my pda program for 25 yards, fire one shot accurately, reset the reticle to the impact point and I am god to go at distances greater than 100 yard for zero's at that longer distance, then make a drop chart. Overbore

 

[Roktoys84]

Does anybody use the lasers that you put in the chamber?

 

[linksmechanic]

I agree with gene. I have the leupold and have gone back to just pulling the bolt at the range. It's probably the most accurate way.

 

[GSoD]

X2

I bought it because it was cheap and thought why the heck not. Once I put it on I couldn't figure how it would keep a bullet in the same zip code let alone on paper.

But everytime it has worked.

To protect the crown I just put a peice of cloth between the magnetic sight and the barrel.

I bought a Busnell magnetic boresighter a while back. I had my doubts about it when I got it. It's held to the muzzle by a magnet, but you can slide it around left-right, up-down, etc. So how can it be worth a darn if it's not in a fixed position, right? Well I've used it twice on new scopes. I put a yardstick across the scope's objective and parallel to the barrel. I try to get the top of the collimator in line with the top of the scope's objective. Then I eyeball the left-right orientation and try to get it as "plumb" as I can. Then I look through the scope and center the reticle on the collimator. Both times I've been on paper when I took it to the range.