Bore scopes

Yes, Teslong… used for a few years. You will soon find out what really cleans your barrel and what does not. Now it takes me about five minutes and I use less products than ever. cleaning without a horoscope is like shooting random powder charges to find groups and then saying your barrel doesn't like the powder. Blue tooth flexible version works for me. When I help a friend clean their barrel, I can send them home with a video. If you are smart enough to reload, you can figure out how to setup, focus, and use it. Or not….
I just got the Teslong that WIFI to iPhone and now in search of a new cleaning product. Any help would be appreciated. I thought my barrels were clean, as patches would come out clean, scope shows carbon.
 
I just got the Teslong that WIFI to iPhone and now in search of a new cleaning product. Any help would be appreciated. I thought my barrels were clean, as patches would come out clean, scope shows carbon.
There are two methods to clean out a barrel… mechanical or chemical. I choose mechanical. If you want chemicals around that will dissolve all the chit that collects in your barrel, knock yourself out, just don't drink or smell any.
I choose JB Bore paste, Iosso paste, Flitz or any number of other mechanical cleaning products. They are all a mechanical rubbing compound that scrubs out the carbon and copper. They do wear down the barrel lands, so instead of getting 3000 rounds out of a barrel , you may only get 2980 clean accurate rounds. I use Iosso paste and it cleans my barrel up in just a few minutes. Then I flush and swab patches with rubbing alcohol and finish it off with Lockeze graphite solution. Very simple and inexpensive. I find first shot accuracy to be the same as the next ten shots and beyond. Just saying what works for me… take it or leave it.
 
We have a somewhat older one that has a small monitor, memory card. so you can look on a computer. I mainly use it to check New Barrels that we bought to see if there are any defits before chambering. or to look at a customers bore.
I think that the average or more shooter can save themselves a lot of head aches if they never used a bore scope.
 
We have a somewhat older one that has a small monitor, memory card. so you can look on a computer. I mainly use it to check New Barrels that we bought to see if there are any defits before chambering. or to look at a customers bore.
I think that the average or more shooter can save themselves a lot of head aches if they never used a bore scope.
Very respectfully, you are in the Stone Age on this one. An $89 investment into the flexible Wi-Fi model is light years ahead of what you are communicating here. You don't need a monitor…. Use you iPhone or iPad and it is perfect. Get on board withi this one it is a big advancement. I want you to be on the cutting edge. Love you guys.
 
Very respectfully, you are in the Stone Age on this one. An $89 investment into the flexible Wi-Fi model is light years ahead of what you are communicating here. You don't need a monitor…. Use you iPhone or iPad and it is perfect. Get on board withi this one it is a big advancement. I want you to be on the cutting edge. Love you guys.
You missed my point.

Yes our Bore Scope is in the stone age. I was comparing ours to the new Bore Scopes with BT and phone computer connect.

The "I think that the average or more shooter can save themselves a lot of head aches if they never used a bore scope.".
Is in reference to some shooters finding things inside their barrel that is not effecting their shooting, but they keep chasing issues because of their interpretation on what they see from a bore scope.

Yes I would like to get a new Bore Scope, but the one we have works just fine
 
Remember that JB Bore Bright is more aggressive than std JB.

Possible Application techniques that can be used, depending on the severity of the carbon build-up:

Patch on a punch type jag

Patch wrapped on a smaller caliber brush or on a worn brush

Stiff plastic brush, best brands are Iosso and Montana Extreme

Fine grade of Bronze wool wrapped in a bronze bristle or plastic brush, this will not scratch the very finest cut rifle and button rifle barrels. One package of this will last a life time for most shooters. You wind the wool in the brush, add JB, JB Bright, Flitz, Flitz bore cleaner, Thurro Clean, etc then scrub away. The Bronze wool will get compacted, you may have to add more. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266545883278

On the very worst cases of carbon and copper fouling, you can use the JB and JB Bore bright or other, on a Bronze bristle brush, but this method sound be only used as a means of Last Resort.
 
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There are two methods to clean out a barrel… mechanical or chemical. I choose mechanical. If you want chemicals around that will dissolve all the chit that collects in your barrel, knock yourself out, just don't drink or smell any.
I choose JB Bore paste, Iosso paste, Flitz or any number of other mechanical cleaning products. They are all a mechanical rubbing compound that scrubs out the carbon and copper. They do wear down the barrel lands, so instead of getting 3000 rounds out of a barrel , you may only get 2980 clean accurate rounds. I use Iosso paste and it cleans my barrel up in just a few minutes. Then I flush and swab patches with rubbing alcohol and finish it off with Lockeze graphite solution. Very simple and inexpensive. I find first shot accuracy to be the same as the next ten shots and beyond. Just saying what works for me… take it or leave it.
I have been using lockeze graphite in my barrels after they are cleaned up. Do you find that copper does not stick in the barrels as bad? Have you ever had pressure issues if you left too much in your barrels? I'm thinking of trying the spray can type of graphite as it maybe finer. Thanks
 
I have been using lockeze graphite in my barrels after they are cleaned up. Do you find that copper does not stick in the barrels as bad? Have you ever had pressure issues if you left too much in your barrels? I'm thinking of trying the spray can type of graphite as it maybe finer. Thanks
Interesting. Keep us posted, please
 
Benchrest shooters use Speedy's method as barrels are cleaned after every 7-10 rounds. I have cleaned using that method for decades on my short-range benchrest rifles. I know that this method will not work on large cases where 60+grains of powder are used.

I have not seen those solvents do much for carbon removal, but are great for top-layer copper, and I have every product the company makes. Good bronze bristle brushes do the work as the copper is gone by the time I have removed the carbon, Dewey and Pro Shot brushes are good for 100 strokes max, with the most aggressive use of the brush being 60 strokes and less. Tipton has a bronze bristle brush with 30% more bristles but only comes in a three-pack whereas I usually buy Dewey and Pro Shot brushes by the dozen. Softer bronze bristle brushes are just good for exercise unless you load them up with JB. I have Hawkeye and Teslong bore scopes.

Again, get a Teslong bore scope, and discover which Cleaning methods work best for you! Methods and applications will vary between barrel types and quality. For instance, a Remington 788 in 22/250 will vary greatly from a Hart barrel in 22/250.

Monitoring carbon fouling is one of the best uses of a bore scope, with you adapting your cleaning methods to the particular barrel's attentive needs which vary from barrel to barrel.

Gunsmiths and Barrel makers are NOT HAPPY with the fact that shooters are getting Bore scopes. There is a learning curve in knowing issues of what you are looking at in a barrel vs what is affecting accuracy. Every gunsmith should examine the chamber before removing it from the lathe after chambering, and the vast majority do not. The gunsmith should examine the barrel before chambering, again, the vast majority do not. The customer then finds out about SERVICE AFTER THE SALE from that company/gunsmith. Gunsmiths do not have time to deal with Nitpickers who are looking for perfection over issues that are of no consequence., but chambers that are "ringed" where a reamer flute picked up chip weldment make for some ugly chambers. Also, you can see if the chamber was cut crooked where the leade angle was cut more on one side than the opposite side causing MAJOR accuracy issues. Bore scopes raise the bar in QC.

Monitoring throat wear, and fire cracking using different powders is another fine example you will see. R#17 and all of the N500 series, H4895, IMR XBR 8208 are all very aggressive in bore wear, which can Also be verified by monitoring the COAL to the lands.

When you are shooting a cartridge with a High Heat Index powder that is normally shot out in 800-1100 rounds, the wear pattern is amazing. It is also amazing how some barrels will shoot incredibly that look like a sewer pipe, but like throwing a light switch, they just quit shooting well. So, with the bore scope, you have a fighting chance of being prepared for the barrel to quit shooting well, with a backup barrel ready to screw on or at least have a barrel blank on hand so you do not have to Wait for one to be ordered. Be aware that when YOU send a barrel to a gunsmith, they usually chamber it, Quality control of the bore condition is on YOU, and problems with accuracy and copper fouling are also on you. These issues of quality control are madness to deal with when you realize that the gunsmith did not give a rip, nor did the barrel maker. Barrel makers vary greatly in customer service after the sale, and you can take that to the bank. I order my barrels, examine them, then send to the gunsmith. Issues with a rough barrel, a barrel with inclusions from the foundry, or barrels that have a screwed-up rifling, missing or thinned rifling are addressed before the gunsmith chambering the barrel. If you think that top barrel makers do not have barrels escape their inspection process, you are grossly mistaken. Also, there are different levels of production quality between the top barrel makers. My greatest concern with Cut rifle Barrels is how rough they are. Everyone has their favorites, and mine are Krieger and Brux cut rifle barrels...just my favorite. I have shot out a lot of Hart button rifle barrels over the years, also. There are some really good relatively new rifle barrel makers out there right now, Meuller in particular that I have used.

I have shot out a lot of barrels, with only finding half a dozen or so barrels that had BAD production issues that were missed at the factory. Each one of those bad barrels cost me a minimum of $1000 and a year's worth of aggravation in getting that barrel replaced, and this was the reason I got my first bore scope. The shock in my cleaning methods was a bonus.
 
I would suggest getting one w/o it's own screen as the odds are that a computer monitor or tablet screen is far larger than any screen it might come with. I connect mine to my reloading bench computer.
That would make it easier to record video and photos also, on an iPad.
For returns to the factory or explanation to the owner.
 
There are two methods to clean out a barrel… mechanical or chemical. I choose mechanical. If you want chemicals around that will dissolve all the chit that collects in your barrel, knock yourself out, just don't drink or smell any.
I choose JB Bore paste, Iosso paste, Flitz or any number of other mechanical cleaning products. They are all a mechanical rubbing compound that scrubs out the carbon and copper. They do wear down the barrel lands, so instead of getting 3000 rounds out of a barrel , you may only get 2980 clean accurate rounds. I use Iosso paste and it cleans my barrel up in just a few minutes. Then I flush and swab patches with rubbing alcohol and finish it off with Lockeze graphite solution. Very simple and inexpensive. I find first shot accuracy to be the same as the next ten shots and beyond. Just saying what works for me… take it or leave it.
Thanks for the reply. This time of year most of my cleaning is done in the basement, and I am using a cleaner that does not have a smell. With the borescope it shows that it is doing a pretty good job, but there is still carbon in the barrel. Goes to show we can learn new and better ways of doing things.
 

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