Barrel vise question on a Remage

Here's the easiest way for range swaps...and you don't need a barrel vice or have to remove scope. Get the action wrench that goes into the bolt ways. Longest model you can find. You can use any way you choose to hold it. Screw your barrel in to headspace spec. Insert the way wrench, slip the nut wrench onto the nut and torque it down. Recheck the headspace and fire away.
 
Do you use anything with the aluminum block, leather, rubber tape, rosin, etc?
I know the aluminum is softer than the barrel, but I was curious if it ever left any marks on the barrel.
No, I was going to on the remington the other day and didn't with no apparent problems. It was a stainless bead blasted barrel and it left no marks. I torqued it to 50 lbs. Not sure if it would have if I had tightened it more.
 
The aluminum usually don't leave marks unless you don't tighten it enough. If the barrel slips it will leave some marks. But they wipe away with some solvent and 0000 steel wool. Just like my brass tipped screws I use on my lathe. It leaves 4 little brass marks that just clean up real fast.
Shep
 
The most simple thing being turned into a complicated process amazes me. Go to Northland Shooters Supply and get an action wrench. You torque the bolts as directed in the instructions and then remove the bbl nut. One then screws the bbl off by hand and reverses the process. Torque the nut to 40 ft lbs and shoot bug holes. Sometimes I remove my bbl for a deep cleaning...it goes right back on with no poi change. Now I don't shoot 1000 yd BR competition so if that's your game I suspect this can be improved upon. I can't tell the difference ringing steel that far though.
 
Thanks for the information. I think I will make a bracket that will go onto my receiver hitch, weld a plate to it and mount the vise or barrel vise.

I happened to see the one below when I was looking around. Cheap price, all aluminum.
View attachment 192630

I also like the look of the Viper shown above.
This is the vice I use for my gun room and truck trailer hitch.
1589087869072.png
 
I use live oak blocks a friend milled, drilled, and split for me. Getting factory barrels off first time I sometimes line the oak holes with sheet lead and rosin if I want to minimize any marks on the barrel.
I use two oversized pieces of 1/2" steel plate drilled through each end with all-thread on each end to clamp the blocks together.
The whole mess goes in my shop vice to hold it steady, and off to work.
Redneck, but it works every time so far.
 
I use live oak blocks a friend milled, drilled, and split for me. Getting factory barrels off first time I sometimes line the oak holes with sheet lead and rosin if I want to minimize any marks on the barrel.
I use two oversized pieces of 1/2" steel plate drilled through each end with all-thread on each end to clamp the blocks together.
The whole mess goes in my shop vice to hold it steady, and off to work.
Redneck, but it works every time so far.

Saving money for other 'stuff' is always a good idea.
 
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