That's some beautiful wood.
Any Stock Finishers here ? I have a couple questions
- Thread starter CjC73
- Start date
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It's been so long I can't remember, but what I paid for it in 1980 it should be exhibition grade. That was the 3rd stock from Richards that he got in before I said yea that's the one.
I wished I had it here I'd take a pic of the back behind the thumbhole, there is a design, natural, that turned out great that I actually loved that it was in there. It was probably some type of sap, it wasn't no bigger than a quarter and it kinda resembled a Matthews bow of today, but I gave the rifle to my daughter a few years ago so it's not so easy to get a pic anymore.
Yeah, there's something about black walnut...btw, that's a $400 one
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shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Making oils for gun stock finishing
Diggory Hadoke provides recipes and instruction for making gun stock oils.
www.vintageguns.co.uk
epoletna
Well-Known Member
Shortgrass: Thanks for that link. I have ordered some alkanet root and will be making myself some red oil. I have long wondered how to make it.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
No problem! I'm just full of obsolete information!
When I say I was an amateur gs they didn't come anymore amateur than I was and when I pulled the trigger on the first one I built I didn't even have it in a stock next to my face. I held onto the barrel, I saw the smith that taught me what I know do this to check his brass, I pointed the muzzle low in front of me, turned my head and let it rip, I kept all my fingers, plus both thumbs, and I wasn't bleeding anywhere else so it was a good day and test.Making oils for gun stock finishing
Diggory Hadoke provides recipes and instruction for making gun stock oils.
Thanks for the link.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Every chamber I cut I hold the back end of the action against a wood fence post and touch 'er off 2 rounds. Try holding just the barrel with no back-up when testing a .375 H&H or .458 Lott and see where you end-up holding! It won't be back there near the action! (more obsolete info for most here)
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
^^^^
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epoletna
Well-Known Member
Nomad: That's a nice looking stock! Did you shape it by hand or have a stock duplicator?
1. Alkanet root will eventually fail. Not very "light" fast. Look at a dye sold by a company named Timberluxe. https://www.timberluxe.com/wood-finish
2. Sanding is for finishing, not shaping. Always use a backer when using sand paper. Wet or dry. Shape with a rasp, file's, etc. Nicholson number 50 is invaluable. Cuts smoothly.
3. Never use any type of steel wool. You'll end up with shards in the wood and they will rust.
4. Pro Custom oil by Chempak is idiot proof. I am the idiot btw. It is urethane with tung oil and dries quickly and hard. Brownells sells it.
5. There are no oils that are waterproof. None. The only way to waterproof a wood stock is either leave it in your safe or use epoxy. I've used West Systems 105/205. Perfectly clear. You can apply your oil finish of choice on top of the epoxy. Heat the wood, apply epoxy which will be drawn into the pores and harden like nobody's bidniss. Oh and your checkered diamonds will be sharp.
It took me years to get to the point where I didn't dread shaping and finishing a stock (or refinishing) for someone other than myself. I've never worked on a stock and thought it came out "great" or "perfect".
6. Time to flame away.
