Accurization ?????

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by cva54, Nov 10, 2011.

  1. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    I got a rem 700 .308 Bringing it in for a triger job and thinking since it is there. What els can I do to it lap the lugs or what. Any input would be great.
     

  2. theflyonthewall

    theflyonthewall Well-Known Member

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    I'm probably one of the smallest fish here in this pond......but I'd say to ask your smith to look it over and decide what needs to be done if anything. You could spend a small fortune. But the question is.....do you need to?
     

  3. Buano

    Buano Well-Known Member

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    The Rem 700 is the most worked on rifle model ever, partly because there are so many of them floating around, and partly because some of them need a lot of work. I've seen Model 700 rifles that would shoot 3/8" groups with factory ammunition on day one & others that wouldn't hold 2.5" groups with any ammunition tried. You don't tell us the details of what you have or how it shoots so I can only talk in generalities.

    To increase accuracy of a Model 700 start at the beginning of this list & go as far as you need to to get the performance you want.

    Most basic improvements:
    Tune or replace the trigger. I lean towards replacing.
    Bed the action.
    Lap the barrel.
    Float the barrel if it's not already.
    Lap lugs
    recrown the barrel

    Major work:
    True the action.
    rebarrel
    restock

    Non "shootability" improvements
    Plate or coat metal surfaces.
    Camo-dip stock & barrel

    Now you have a list of what you may want to have done. Figure which of these you can afford & justify. Those are the items you should have done.
     
  4. Outlaw6.0

    Outlaw6.0 Well-Known Member

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    Buano hit it pretty well, my input is quite similar:

    1- Tune or replace trigger (if it's the x-mark, replace it)
    2- PROPERLY bed the action (yes it can be done wrong)
    3- free float the bbl (should be done in conjunction w/step 2)
    4- Examine the crown recut if necessary.

    These steps will get you to the factory "improved" performance level, next would be action blueprinting & lug lapping etc. I don't usually recommend folks go that far w/ a factory bbl as it is still a crap shoot whether or not it will shoot. You are taking the bbl off to do it any, might as well screw on a better tube while you're at it.

    I have experienced a huge accy problem with a 7mm in the SPS configuration, those factory stocks are inadequate at very best (in my opinion). Shooting from a bipod actually shown a 2" change in POI from different loading of the bipod.... when you can grab the bipod with one hand, grab the action area with the other and actually make the stock flex... wow...
    Just another .002
     
  5. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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  6. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks all It is a stainless SPS DM in .308 sporter barrle. I can and do sub MOA at 100Y and 200 Y off the bench,bags or bipod but 3" low at 200 that is with my ammo. Yes that cheep platstik stock sucks So the rifle it self shoots good I am gettoing a new stock laminated hardwood piller bed it but leanning towards not floatting it (for now) want more that 1 shot. So do you all think lapping lugs & reset headspace would do any good?
     
  7. Buano

    Buano Well-Known Member

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    The advantage your new laminated stock offers is that it is stiff enough to resist being pushed against the barrel, which would change your point of impact. If you don't float the barrel, thermal expansion of the barrel will change the pressure on the barrel and change your point of impact much the same as the plastic stock does when you push on it. Float the barrel if you want to be able to shoot more than one shot to the same point of impact.

    Lapping the lugs helps if there is minimal contact with the lugs now. Until you check the lug contact I do not know if they need lapping.

    Resetting the headspace is only necessary if your bullet is not an optimal distance from the rifling. Most guns seem to be most accurate with a bullet 2-3 thousandths off the rifling but only trial & error will tell you what spacing works best for your bullets in this rifle.
     
  8. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    Absolutely do not hand lap the barrel unless you are willing to lose an inch or more. That is an art and even barrel makers have specialists to do that. They cut a reference mark on the end of the blank as to where to cut it off before crowning. Hand lapping slightly enlarges the bore at the muzzle end
     
  9. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks all. I was just wondering if it would worth the time and money. It is getting the stock and a trigger job thats a good start.
     
  10. permaculture

    permaculture Well-Known Member

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    Sir, do you have any recommended videos or threads related to the two above for a Rem 700 with synthetic stock?
     
  11. Buano

    Buano Well-Known Member

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    Last bedding job I did I bought a kit from Brownells. The instructions were very complete & easy to follow.
     
  12. Outlaw6.0

    Outlaw6.0 Well-Known Member

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    Buano is correct, pick up the Acraglas gel kit (Brownells), the instructions are crazy easy to follow... i've also seen a few threads somewhere that overviewed the process.... I'll see if I can find them...
     
  13. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    What you all think about the 700 tirgger?
     
  14. Buano

    Buano Well-Known Member

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    My thoughts on the 700 trigger are simple to state: Throw it away & put in a good one. It's neither the most accurate trigger nor a reliable trigger/safety system (with seemingly random failures where guns go off without the trigger being pulled) so I go aftermarket. Some here argue the 700 trigger is reliable since most 700 rifles do not fail, but I have seen ones that did & no one has been able to show me how to tell when one will fail before the failure occurs.