If I have ever had a good idea the chances are someone else already thought of it, or it was not so hot. Now with that in mind as anyone else considered barrel threads, as in on the end on the barrel that you attach a tuner, muzzle break or moderator to.
With hammer forged factory barrels I can see how it is easier for it to be threaded like that, as the barrel starts out as a short fat tube and is hammer profiled and rifled. However on cut rifled or button rifled barrels you start off with a blank, about 33mm in diameter.
So here is the idea when you profile, any contour LV, HV etc why not leave an inch or two of barrel blank at the end of the barrel, counter bore it over bore diameter and thread the outside. It need not be the whole 33mm dia. unless you wanted a heavy integral tuner, it could be the same profile as the rest of the barrel, to that you could attach a moderator, tuner or muzzle break.
As to why do it that way, well with a conventional thread you may open up the bore right where you want the tightest part at the crown, lapping after threading goes a long way to solving this I guess but you still end up thinner metal at the crown which may or may not heat up more. In effect what is done now is to join two pieces of metal at a critical part of the barrel.
The question is why not counter bore the barrel and put the threads where they are not affecting the crown or any rifled part of the barrel.
So what am I missing?
David.
With hammer forged factory barrels I can see how it is easier for it to be threaded like that, as the barrel starts out as a short fat tube and is hammer profiled and rifled. However on cut rifled or button rifled barrels you start off with a blank, about 33mm in diameter.
So here is the idea when you profile, any contour LV, HV etc why not leave an inch or two of barrel blank at the end of the barrel, counter bore it over bore diameter and thread the outside. It need not be the whole 33mm dia. unless you wanted a heavy integral tuner, it could be the same profile as the rest of the barrel, to that you could attach a moderator, tuner or muzzle break.
As to why do it that way, well with a conventional thread you may open up the bore right where you want the tightest part at the crown, lapping after threading goes a long way to solving this I guess but you still end up thinner metal at the crown which may or may not heat up more. In effect what is done now is to join two pieces of metal at a critical part of the barrel.
The question is why not counter bore the barrel and put the threads where they are not affecting the crown or any rifled part of the barrel.
So what am I missing?
David.