7mm wsm brass question

[DartonJager]

I presently own and dearly love my 300wsm and have hundreds of .284 bullets and would LOVE to buy a rifle in 7mm WSM but scarcity of brass has me holding off. I fear buying a rifle who's only source of brass might end up being factory loaded ammo. I can find plenty of brass in both 300wsm and 270wsm but have no idea how to or the difficulty of converting 270wsm or 300wsm brass to 7mm wsm.

So is 7mm wsm brass going to dry up forever and if it does how hard is it to covert 270 wsm or 300wsm brass to 7mm wsm?

I have seen Bertram brass in 7mm wsm but is it worth the $1.70 each VS WW?

Thanks,
Art.

 

[slv hunter]

Don't know much about availability, but you could use 270 wsm brass with mild load and bullet seated so it's jammed to fire form to 7wsm. Someone will chime in with where to find some hopefully. Good luck

 

[HuntFarther]

You can take 300 wsm brass and start necking it down to create a false shoulder. And then fireform. Don't take anything at all. I say 300 wsm instead of 270 wsm, because you need the false shoulder to blow the case out. The 7mm wsm has larger case and shorter neck. If this makes sense.

 

[newrycurt]

What about Bertram brass, how readily is that available?

https://bertrambrass.com/product/7mm-winchester-short-magnum-unprimed-brass-count/

 

[J E Custom]

As HuntFarther said, Use 300 WSM brass and size in a 7 WSM die. take the case and try for fit in your chamber and when you have a .003 to .004 thousandths crush fit stop sizing. The case will feel tight, but the bolt will close (Just like doing an Ackley) This will hold the case firmley in place and allow it to fire form with minimum case stretch.

Both rounds are the same overall length, But the body of the 300 is .037 thousandths shorter so the shoulder is moved forward during fire forming.

As to the Bertram brass, if it is sized for the 7 WSM it will probably be ok
But when moving the shoulder forward It may not fire form properly because of its hardness . So i would buy any of the available brass like Winchester or Norma. The Norma is arround $1.00 a piece and the Winchester is around $.50c each when you can find it.

J E CUSTOM

 

[tbrice23]

As HuntFarther said, Use 300 WSM brass and size in a 7 WSM die. take the case and try for fit in your chamber and when you have a .003 to .004 thousandths crush fit stop sizing. The case will feel tight, but the bolt will close (Just like doing an Ackley) This will hold the case firmley in place and allow it to fire form with minimum case stretch.

Both rounds are the same overall length, But the body of the 300 is .037 thousandths shorter so the shoulder is moved forward during fire forming.

As to the Bertram brass, if it is sized for the 7 WSM it will probably be ok
But when moving the shoulder forward It may not fire form properly because of its hardness . So i would buy any of the available brass like Winchester or Norma. The Norma is arround $1.00 a piece and the Winchester is around $.50c each when you can find it.

J E CUSTOM

This is exactly what I did when forming 300wsm cases to 7wsm.

Used Winchester for one barrel and Norma for my present barrel. Over all I prefer Norma for its consistency but have after sorting and neck turning I have no complaints about Winchester.

 

[cohunt]

I bought bertram 7wsm brass about 3 months ago, then it went oos...but it's already back so it seems hes going to try to keep it in stock.
I think hornady sells 7wsm brass also but I haven't tried it.
Or you can buy factory loaded ammo and shoot it for brass-- then you have a few more options.

 

[J E Custom]

One thing often over looked, many times Reloading cartridges can cost as much or more that loaded ammo. With brass costing $1.00+ per round, bullets costing .40c+ each and add the powder and primer cost and a cost of $2.00 each round Loaded doesn't sound bad.

If you buy loaded ammo, you don't have to load or fire form and chances are that you can hunt with it if only at short distances. So nothing is wasted.

In many cases reloading is not cheaper like it use to be, only better quality.

Sometimes fire forming is the only way but at other times it may be prudent to buy loaded ammo with the right case head stamp.

J E CUSTOM

 

[John Klingenberg]

I use 300 wsm brass for most of my reloading in 7mm wsm. I've been able to just size it my 7mm die in a single pass. The brass is pretty heavy and I've never lost a piece of brass in the process. It's a great caliber.

 

[HuntFarther]

I use 300 wsm brass for most of my reloading in 7mm wsm. I've been able to just size it my 7mm die in a single pass. The brass is pretty heavy and I've never lost a piece of brass in the process. It's a great caliber.

Just make sure you have the false shoulder to hold the brass in place for fireforming and you're good. One pass is all it really needs.

 

[mnoland30]

The available factory loads are very limited, and they don't shoot worth a darn in my Browning Ti. I love the round, but can't find any brass. I finally bought a couple of boxes of factory ammo at the gun show just for the brass. I'm too cheap to buy Norma brass, so if I have to I'll resize 300 WSM cases. I load 7mm TCU and 7-30 Waters, so fire forming isn't a big deal. My fireform loads shoot like a dream. I've considered hunting with them they shoot so well. I hunt deer and elk with a muzzleloader, so all that is left for my centerfire is Barbary sheep, ibex, oryx, antelope, and javelina. Gotta love NM.

 

[Mr1Fixit]

I presently own and dearly love my 300wsm and have hundreds of .284 bullets and would LOVE to buy a rifle in 7mm WSM but scarcity of brass has me holding off. I fear buying a rifle who's only source of brass might end up being factory loaded ammo. I can find plenty of brass in both 300wsm and 270wsm but have no idea how to or the difficulty of converting 270wsm or 300wsm brass to 7mm wsm.

So is 7mm wsm brass going to dry up forever and if it does how hard is it to covert 270 wsm or 300wsm brass to 7mm wsm?

I have seen Bertram brass in 7mm wsm but is it worth the $1.70 each VS WW?

Thanks,
Art.

I recently replaced a 300 WSM barrel on my Kimber 8400 with a 7mm WSM barrel from Pac-Nor. I bought 100 pieces of Hornady brass and am in process of fire forming my old Winchester, Norma, and RWS brass to 7mm. I found I can neck the .300 down to 7 mm in the standard die, anneal the neck and shoulder, then fire form using a light but standard load. I was pleasantly surprised to find the 150 grain fireforming loads to be very accurate. They will do just fine for whitetail deer. I'm still doing load development, but I'm optimistic the PAC-Nor barrel is going to make this Kimber a favorite rifle for me.

 

[John Klingenberg]

The available factory loads are very limited, and they don't shoot worth a darn in my Browning Ti. I love the round, but can't find any brass. I finally bought a couple of boxes of factory ammo at the gun show just for the brass. I'm too cheap to buy Norma brass, so if I have to I'll resize 300 WSM cases. I load 7mm TCU and 7-30 Waters, so fire forming isn't a big deal. My fireform loads shoot like a dream. I've considered hunting with them they shoot so well. I hunt deer and elk with a muzzleloader, so all that is left for my centerfire is Barbary sheep, ibex, oryx, antelope, and javelina. Gotta love NM.

Ah, how I miss the wide open spaces of NM.

 

[tbrice23]

I recently replaced a 300 WSM barrel on my Kimber 8400 with a 7mm WSM barrel from Pac-Nor. I bought 100 pieces of Hornady brass and am in process of fire forming my old Winchester, Norma, and RWS brass to 7mm. I found I can neck the .300 down to 7 mm in the standard die, anneal the neck and shoulder, then fire form using a light but standard load. I was pleasantly surprised to find the 150 grain fireforming loads to be very accurate. They will do just fine for whitetail deer. I'm still doing load development, but I'm optimistic the PAC-Nor barrel is going to make this Kimber a favorite rifle for me.

Pac Nor makes good barrels

.