7mm Rem Mag Reloading

[aaronw06]

Hey guys, I have been a long time lurker and the advice/information on this site is awesome.

Right now I am currently working with 162 ELD-X and 7977 powder, I haven't really seen anything specific to this scenario so I figured I would ask.

I shot a ladder test the other day starting at the IMR Starting Loads ( 64.0gr) and finishing with Max Load ( 69.5gr) .
The tightest group actually was found at max load with a center to center of 1.3" @ 200yrds with no pressure signs. This ladder was tested with Remington Brass, CCI 250 Mag Primers and .020 from lands.

What would you recommend as the next step, adjust seating depth? If so how large of intervals would you use? I am pretty new at reloading and to the ELD-X bullet. I know my gun loved the off the shelf precision hunter 162.
My ultimate goal is to shoot up to 1,000 yrds but also use this round as my hunting round during deer season. I necessarily do not need to take deer at 800 yrds.

Currently the gun is setup as a Remington 700 ADL, 26" (sport )barrel, JP muzzle brake, trigger at 3lbs and a filled, bedded stock. Right now I am currently using the factory stock until I finish my 300 BLK AR. I filled the voids in the stock, bedded the action and floated the barrel. I am a DIY guy so I know its not as great as an aftermarket chassis but I enjoyed doing it.

Thank you for any advice on this, there is some much information it has started to become overwhelming.

-A-Aron

 

[Jerry M]

Tag

 

[Dosh]

06, welcome to the forum. 1.3" @ 200 is quite good for the factory rifle you described. Good to hear 7977 is getting used so we can hear the results. Haven't tried the 7mm ELD-X but the BergerVLD responds to seating depth well. Sounds like you have a black plastic stock. If you are looking for more accuracy try an aftermarket stock which when bedded will shrink your groups. Very seldom do two rifles like the same exact load, trying other powders and primers sometimes helps as well. Good luck

 

[aaronw06]

06, welcome to the forum. 1.3" @ 200 is quite good for the factory rifle you described. Good to hear 7977 is getting used so we can hear the results. Haven't tried the 7mm ELD-X but the BergerVLD responds to seating depth well. Sounds like you have a black plastic stock. If you are looking for more accuracy try an aftermarket stock which when bedded will shrink your groups. Very seldom do two rifles like the same exact load, trying other powders and primers sometimes helps as well. Good luck

Thank you Dosh
I originally started this as a budget $1k gun and a reason to experiment with reloading. I will say once I started to hear steel ring at 700yrds... I was hooked.

How are the VLD in regards to seating depth, do they like a small jump? If I am not mistaken the ELD and VLD are a secant bullet? I appoligize if I am off on this, newbie syndrome.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thank you Dosh
I originally started this as a budget $1k gun and a reason to experiment with reloading. I will say once I started to hear steel ring at 700yrds... I was hooked.

How are the VLD in regards to seating depth, do they like a small jump? If I am not mistaken the ELD and VLD are a secant bullet? I appoligize if I am off on this, newbie syndrome.

You are correct, they are both Secant Ogives. VLD's prefer to be close to the lands as well. I seat mine 0.015" off the lands.

Also, you're shooting around 5/8 MOA, which is not bad for a factory rifle.

 

[aaronw06]

You are correct, they are both Secant Ogives. VLD's prefer to be close to the lands as well. I seat mine 0.015" off the lands.

Also, you're shooting around 5/8 MOA, which is not bad for a factory rifle.

Thank you , that was in the back of a truck with a rear sandbag, we haven't finished our shooting bench yet. My buddy I shoot with shoots his 50bmg off the top of his bronco at 1400yrds ( farthest shot we have), yes I know that's pretty redneck haha gun)

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thank you , that was in the back of a truck with a rear sandbag, we haven't finished our shooting bench yet. My buddy I shoot with shoots his 50bmg off the top of his bronco at 1400yrds ( farthest shot we have), yes I know that's pretty redneck haha gun)

I'm from Alabama...Been there, done that.

 

[LaHunter]

When you state that your 'max load' was 69.5 grains with no signs of pressure, what are you basing 'max load' on? Is this the listed max load in the reloading manual?

This may or may not be 'max load' for your specific rifle. You may want to continue increasing the powder charge in .2 or .3 grain increments to determine at what point you start seeing pressure signs. A sticky bolt is a good indicator. This COULD be as high as 1.0-2.0 grains higher than the published max load. You MIGHT find that your groups get even better, or you may see the groups get worse, but at least you will know the peak accuracy. After this, I would start working on seating depth. Just make sure you keep your seating depth so that you are not touching the lands because this will surely result in a big pressure spike.
This is what worked well for me.
With my rifle, and the specific powder, bullets, primers, brass prep, seating depth, etc, I see optimum accuracy when my ammo is loaded slightly above published max.

By the way, 1.3" groups at 200 yards with a factory rifle is pretty darn good!

Good Luck

 

[aaronw06]

Sorry I didnt clarify, yea this is the max load based off the IMR data. I was a little nervous to go above that being this is still all new to me.
Bolt lift was like normal and the only other things I know to look for would be primer and bolt face imprint on case., none of those I saw.

 

[aaronw06]

I do have a question in regards to case prep.
I have been full length resizing as I was told if I hunt with the gun (I do ) it may be best to full length to eliminate any issues with chambering. I do not necessarily consider my gun dirty, but it doesn't shoot on a bench.

What are your thoughts? Also what kind of brass life are you getting from FL resizing? I have remington and hornady brass.

 

[MudRunner2005]

I do have a question in regards to case prep.
I have been full length resizing as I was told if I hunt with the gun (I do ) it may be best to full length to eliminate any issues with chambering. I do not necessarily consider my gun dirty, but it doesn't shoot on a bench.

What are your thoughts? Also what kind of brass life are you getting from FL resizing? I have remington and hornady brass.

As long as you shoot the same brass in the same rifle without mixing them with other guns, you can neck-size them and they'll be fine for hunting.

The only rifles that I FL size each time, is semi-autos for guaranteed feeding and extraction. Bolt-actions and single-shots I neck size until I start getting some resistance when I close the bolt, then I FL size them the next time....The neck size until I get resistance, then FL size....repeat, repeat...

Not a fan of Remington brass or Remington factory ammo (past personal experiences), but I do use Rem brass for my .30-06 AI, only because over the years I have picked up TONS of once-fired Rem 30-06 brass on the ground at the ranges, so I have lots of it sitting around. I also use a lot of Hornady in several calibers. Mostly I use Lapua and Nosler for my precision bolt-actions and hunting rifles. For 7mmRM Nosler is good stuff...it's what i use in mine. Per lot, my weight variance is usually under 1 grain.

 

[LaHunter]

I FL resize every time using the Redding Competition Shell Holders. By using these I am working the brass just enough to achieve a .002" headspace clearance. Do a google search on these shell holders. I have brass that have 4 firings with no evidence of being near the end of their useful life.

Good Luck

 

[aaronw06]

Thank you guys for the information. How can you tell if the case is about to separate?
I had a guy tell me to take a small piece of filler rod bent at a 90deg and feel for any valleys in the case. I have been doing this but i feel my lack of experience may overwhelm me.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thank you guys for the information. How can you tell if the case is about to separate?
I had a guy tell me to take a small piece of filler rod bent at a 90deg and feel for any valleys in the case. I have been doing this but i feel my lack of experience may overwhelm me.

Taking a curved o-ring pick will work, too.

Also, this is where most of your separations are going to happen... Right where the web meets the wall.