1st turned necks. Opinions please

From what I've read on this forum. Neck turn after every firing for consistency. I run new brass through dies and trim. Research this forum or start a thread because I know there are more experienced members on here with tons of info.
 
From what I've read on this forum. Neck turn after every firing for consistency. I run new brass through dies and trim. Research this forum or start a thread because I know there are more experienced members on here with tons of info.
I have never turned necks more than once. I wouldn't see the need to do it after each firing.
 
I feel that the picture that nksmfamjp is showing is what you are after. Nice job! You need to cut into the shoulder to prevent donuts. Not much, but like what shown above.
 
What's neck turning? Sorry I'm trying to learn
Truing the outside diameter of your case neck to create a more consistent neck wall thickness all the way around the entire neck. This creates a more consistent neck tension which leads to a more consistent bullet release with a final result hoping to achieve a lower and more consistent ES and SD. Others could explain it better than I can. Just buy good brass(Lapua, Peterson etc.) and you wont have to worry about it.
 
Hmmmmm - I must be the odd man out.

First, I make sure that the cutter angle matches the shoulder angle; ie: 30deg, 40deg, etc. Then I turn down until the cutter just touches the shoulder. I don't cut into the shoulder but just touch it, which is easy to see.

I prefer to turn once fired cases but that isn't always possible because unturned cases often don't fit in minimum spec chambers with enough clearance to ensure safety IMO. I know some shooters think .001" clearance is sufficient but I think that's a bit too tight for your average reloader. using average measuring equipment, and basic techniques.
 
Don't want to hijack this post, but on the question of neck turning do you neck turn virgin brass or once fired? Also, do you just trim once for initial case prep or again after several loadings (for consistency)?
Check the trim after every firing...cases stretch...but resize the case first! Then check
 
Pretty much a waste of time! Unless you are bored and need something to do!
Not when it's the only way to get the brass neck wall thickness to a dimension that gives you the necessary neck clearance... I have Peterson brass. It is amazingly thick. A load unturned neck gave me .001" clearance. So neck turning was the only way to make it work.
 
The one on the left is better than the one on the right to me. What cutter angle did you use? I get further onto the shoulder with a K&M +3* cutter, a wider but shallower cut area. My cutter makes a less abrupt transition than yours looks like, but that might just be the picture. Looks like a Weatherby so I'm not sure how the angle interacts with a radiused shoulder. K&M makes an inside reaming mandrel if I get into donut trouble, but looking at results I doubt I will using the correct cutting angle and a bushing die.

For me it's a one-and-done process on new brass. Some people disparage it, but I view it like uniforming flash holes - it doesn't hurt, it doesn't take that long, you only have to do it once. It's all voodoo anyways.
 
Not when it's the only way to get the brass neck wall thickness to a dimension that gives you the necessary neck clearance... I have Peterson brass. It is amazingly thick. A load unturned neck gave me .001" clearance. So neck turning was the only way to make it work.
That is a very good point..
 
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