Run-out help needed

I won't argue that a full length bushing die is better than a lee collet, and intend to use them in the future.

I'm still learning, but with my skills and equipment I expect less than .33" at 100 yards in perfect conditions.(usually first thing in the morning). When I was full length sizing, I couldn't beat .5". Average was probably close to 3/4"

Full length sizing may be most accurate, if done correctly, but Lee collet neck sizing, with moderate loads, has made me more accurate.

That said, I have been meaning to buy a redding type s in .223. But a collet die probably won't be a purchase you'll regret. While everyone can learn from the best shooters in each discipline, some peoples requirements and expectations can differ.

Give it a try, you might love it.
 
I'm looking forward to trying it out. I think just the information I learned from everyone on this thread is worth more than the price of the die. I will report back on how it works out. Who knows it might be the ticket. Thanks all. Mike
 
Full length sizing may be most accurate, if done correctly
That's the key to success, but only with the right die and setting it up correctly.

Most folks don't set their full length sizing die up correctly and/or they use the wrong type. Most any tool set up not quite right or is the wrong one for the job will fail.
 
My Lee Collet Die arrived yesterday so today I get to play.

I use a RCBS press and if Im reading the Lee instructions correctly it states that when the ram is fully raised to turn the die down another 2 turns. After doing some research on the internet it appears that the 2 turns may or may not be adequate and some trial and error may be in order.

For those folks that use the Lee collet die do you have any other recommendations on how I should proceed for the initial set-up? I dont want to blow the aluminum cap off the top of the die like I read about on the internet. Thanks for suggestions you all might have. Thanks. Mike
 
I use a rock chucker supreme, and I set it up so it sizes with the lever horizontal. It takes a bit of a push to fully squeeze the neck, but when the press progresses further, it compounds the leverage, meaning a little force from your had is significantly more force at the ram. Just get some brass in there and make sure sizing it down about .001 less than with a bullet in there.
 
My Lee Collet Die arrived yesterday so today I get to play.

I use a RCBS press and if Im reading the Lee instructions correctly it states that when the ram is fully raised to turn the die down another 2 turns. After doing some research on the internet it appears that the 2 turns may or may not be adequate and some trial and error may be in order.

For those folks that use the Lee collet die do you have any other recommendations on how I should proceed for the initial set-up? I dont want to blow the aluminum cap off the top of the die like I read about on the internet. Thanks for suggestions you all might have. Thanks. Mike
I would have prefered a PM but this forum only allows 5000 characters in a PM useless . I can post this because I wrote it.

Hope this helps .
Using The Lee Collet Die.
I started using Lee collet dies when they first came on the market and have found that they are very good for the purposes for which they were designed .
I have found that there is a lack of understanding of how to use the die properly and as a result people fail to see the advantages that the die can deliver over standard neck sizing dies.
This is not the fault of the product , it is just a lack of understanding of how the die works and what it will feel like when you operate the press correctly.
Standard dies use a neck expanding ball on the decapping rod and size by extruding the neck through a hole and then drag the expander ball back through the inside neck.
The collet die achieves neck sizing by using a split collet to squeeze the outside of the case neck onto a central mandrel which has the decapping pin in it's base .
One advantage is that there is no stretching or drawing action on the brass.
The inside neck diameter is controlled by the diameter of the mandrel and to some extent by the amount of adjustment of the die and the pressure applied to the press .
This results in less misalignment than can occur in standard dies because of any uneven neck wall thickness in the cases .
Cases will last longer in the neck area and require less trimming. If cases have very uneven neck wall thickness then this can cause problems for the collet die they definitely work smoother and more accurately with neck turned cases but it is not essential.
When you first receive the die unscrew the top cap and pull it apart check that everything is there also that the splits in the collet have nothing stuck in them then inspect the tapered surface on the top end of the collet and the internal taper of the insert to make sure there are no metal burs that might cause it to jamb.
Next get some good quality high pressure grease and put a smear onto the tapered surface of the collet .
Put it back together and screw it into the press just a few threads for now . The best type of press for this die is a press of moderate compound leverage that travels over centre .
Over centre means that when the ram reaches its full travel up it will stop and come back down a tiny amount even though the movement on the handle is continued through to the stop .
eg. is an RCBS Rockchucker.
This arrangement gives the best feel for a collet die sizing operation.
Place the shell holder in the ram and bring the ram up to full height then screw the die down until the collet skirt just touches on the shell holder , then lower the ram .
Take a case to be sized that has a clean neck inside and out and the mouth chamfered and place it in the shell holder.
Raise the ram gently feeling for resistance if none , lower the ram.
Screw the die down a bit at a time .
If you get lock up ( ram stops before going over centre) before the correct position is found then back it off and make sure the collet is loose and not jammed up in the die before continuing then raise the ram feeling for any resistance , keep repeating this until you feel the press handle resist against the case neck just at the top of the stroke as the press goes over centre and the handle kinder locks in place .
This takes much less force than a standard die and most people don't believe any sizing has taken place .
Take the case out and try a projectile of the correct caliber to see how much sizing has taken place.
If it's still too loose adjust the die down one eighth of a turn lock it finger tight only and try again .
Once the die is near the correct sizing position it takes very little movement of the die to achieve changes in neck seating tension .
This is where most people come undone , they move the die up and down too much and it either locks up or doesn't size at all .
It will still size a case locking it up but you have no control over how much pressure is applied and some people lean on the press handle to the point of damaging the die. A press like the RCBS Rockchucker , that goes over centre each time gives you a definite stopping point for the ram and the pressure that you apply .
There is a small sweet spot for correct collet die adjustment and you must find it , once found , how sweet it is ! Advantages : With a press that travels over centre it is possible to adjust the neck seating tension within a very limited zone. No lubricant is normally required on the case necks during sizing .

If you still cant get enough neck tension to hold the bullet properly for a particular purpose then you will have to polish down the mandrel.
Be careful polishing the mandrel down and only do it a bit at a time as a few thou can be removed pretty quickly if you overdo it.
You can't get extra neck tension by just applying more force. The amount of adjustment around the sweet spot is very limited and almost not noticeable without carrying out tests.
For example , to go from a .001 neck tension to a .002 or .003 neck tension you would be talking about polishing down the mandrel.

There are some other advantages but I will leave you the pleasure of discovering them .
One disadvantage that I have found with the collet die is that it needs good vertical alignment of the case as it enters the die or case damage may result so go slowly.
Also some cases with a very thick internal base can cause problems with the mandrel coming in contact with the internal base before the sizing stroke is finished.
If pressure is continued the mandrel can push up against the top cap and cause damage . If you are getting lock up and cant get the right sizing sweet spot, then check that the mandrel is not too long for the case you can place a washer over the case and onto the shell holder and size down on that.
It will reduce the length of neck sized and give the mandrel more clearance. If it sizes Ok after adding the washer then the mandrel could be hitting the base.
This is not a usually problem once you learn how to use them .
The harder the brass is the more spring back it will have so very hard brass will exhibit less sizing than soft brass because it will spring away from the mandrel more. If this is happening to excess then use new cases or anneal the necks.
Freshly annealed brass can drag on the mandrel a bit in certain cases because it will spring back less and result in a tighter size diameter.
I have experienced it. I always use some dry lube on the inside and outside if I get any dragging effect . Normally you don't need lube.
I make up a special batch 1/3 Fine Molly powder. 1/3 Pure graphite. 1/3 Aluminiumised lock graphite. Rub your fingers around the neck and It sticks very well to the necks by just dipping it in and out and tapping it to clear the inside neck . After a few cases it coats up the mandrel .
Other dry lubricants would work also.
Use the same process for normal neck sizing also.

I noticed a definite improvement in the accuracy of my 22-250Rem. as soon as I started using a Lee collet die instead of my original standard neck die.
Readers are encouraged to utilize the benefits of responsible reloading at all times. Although the author has taken care in the writing of these articles no responsibility can be taken by the author or publisher as a result of the use of this information.
John Valentine. © 21/01/2002.
*****
 
Bullet bumper thanks for the guidance. I followed your instructions and it worked well ( I think). The going over center felt more like it simply just bottomed out and locked the handle in place. After neck sizing the case neck dimensions were reduced by .003 I dont know if that IS good or not. I could not seem to get any less than that consistently

The one area that I seems to have some trouble with was consistency on the die setting. I would run a few pieces of brass and then remove the die from the press and take the die apart to check and make sure all the parts were moving free. When I screwed the die back in I had to turn it back out a further distance than the previous setting to get the same results. Maybe that is because of the rubber o-ring. ???

I liked your method vs the instructions provided by Lee. I did try turning the die in 2 full turns like Lee suggests but the handle was pretty stiff. Im assuming that the idea there is to press down only so far on the handle and you are done. With practice I imagine someone could get very good at gauging how much pressure to push done on the handle.

Later this week I will finish loading some rounds and hopefully there will be less runout. Thanks. Mike
 
Bullet bumper thanks for the guidance. I followed your instructions and it worked well ( I think). The going over center felt more like it simply just bottomed out and locked the handle in place. After neck sizing the case neck dimensions were reduced by .003 I dont know if that IS good or not. I could not seem to get any less than that consistently

The one area that I seems to have some trouble with was consistency on the die setting. I would run a few pieces of brass and then remove the die from the press and take the die apart to check and make sure all the parts were moving free. When I screwed the die back in I had to turn it back out a further distance than the previous setting to get the same results. Maybe that is because of the rubber o-ring. ???

I liked your method vs the instructions provided by Lee. I did try turning the die in 2 full turns like Lee suggests but the handle was pretty stiff. Im assuming that the idea there is to press down only so far on the handle and you are done. With practice I imagine someone could get very good at gauging how much pressure to push done on the handle.

Later this week I will finish loading some rounds and hopefully there will be less runout. Thanks. Mike
That is exactly how it should feel , you have it right .
The position of the die changes when you remove it because the lock nut moves and also the rubber O ring . A collet die is very sensitive to thread adjustment and only needs a fraction of a turn to change things . After a while you get real proficient at resetting the cam over with the first case of a batch and then it's all automatic. The cam over feel is more important than where the die actually is because variations in neck thickness between brands and batch's can change things . Don't remove the die during a batch of brass.
The best thing to do with Lee's instructions is throw them away.
They don't advise cam over because most of their press designs CAN'T do it.
.003 neck tension is fine and good for big calibres and heavy bullets also. Autos etc. You can still crimp if you get any bullet movement .
Or if you don't want to crimp polish down the mandrel .001 more.
Variations in neck thickness will change neck tension to some degree .
.002 would be ok for smaller calibres and hand fed ammo .
With my cam over method it is much easier to gauge how much pressure you are applying because you have a stopping point . Just leaning on the handle gives variable results as you get tired and some just lean on it until the die breaks.
 
This whole run-out/concentricty thing is an interesting topic and I wonder how much it affects LR precision and accuracy?

A few years ago I bought a used Rem Sendero 25-06. It had a Tasco scope on it and came with some Rem factory ammo. Without cleaning it, I took it out and shot a few of the factory rounds from it @ about 110 yds. I shot a sighter then adjust the scope, then shot 3 more rounds. They measured .244" c-c. I took it home and proceeded to clean it and it took a bout week with Wipeout soakings to get it clean. I decided to take it to a local smith to bore sight it, and he said it was one of the worst firecracker barrels he had ever seen, and was greatly surprised at the group I had shot. Well I bought some Nosler BST's and worked up loads in 3 powders for it and RL17 was the fastest. So I loaded up a few for accuracy testing and it was consistently sub .5 MOA @ 212 and a good .5 MOA to 427 yds. Did not yet own a concentricity gauge. When I did get one, I found that my bullet run-out was in the .006-.010 range for the most part. The Rem factory ammo was the same. Sooo... we have a badly fire cracked barrel shooting factory ammo and handload ammo with some run-out, to . 5 MOA accuracy to 427 yds. It seems to defy logic.

Another interesting experience.... I had a lot of 150 gr Nosler BT's loaded for my M77 7 RM, which finally died on me. These were loaded with a good ole set of RCBS FL and stnd Seating dies. I decided to run them through my S&W 1500 7 RM for kicks. I tried chambering a round for fit and they were about .050 too tight. So I decided to run them through the seater again to shorten the COAL. As i was doing this, I noticed a very slight cam-over at the end of the stroke and didn't think much of it. BTW, these cartridges had been loaded about 12 years prior. Got to the range and chambered one and it was a little difficult closing the bolt. I fired and chambered anothe with yet again some difficulty in closing the bolt and fired again. I was seeing no signs of excessive pressure. The 2nd shot was touching the 1st. I chambered a 3rd with same difficulty and fired again. The 3rd shot was touching the second forming a .4 crescent shaped group. I was quite pleased at this point and tried to chamber a 4th, but this one was more difficult then the others so I decided to make an inspection. I found that all the case had wrinkles in the shoulder and some also had wrinkled necks. Apparently over 12 years the bullets had fused to the necks and when I re-sized them, it wrinkled the brass. 12 year old ammo produced with average dies and wrinkled brass shot out of a factory rifle in an unbedded wood stock shot a .4 MOA group. And, these bullets have roughly the same .005-.010 run-out as others I have loaded. Interesting to say the least.

I'm not really sure what the moral of the story is? I won't argue that less run-out is a good thing, but I wonder how much effect it has in the big picture?

I think when I get my next custom barrel project done, I'll separate some cartridges by bullet run-out and give it a look.

To the OP.... I highly recommend Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. A little on the outside, i apply with fingers and basically rub it on, not too much. I also stick the case neck into the wax about half way to get a little there and it makes a BIG difference. I stroke my sizing and seating Sloooowley. This seems to help and has reduced my run-out a good bit.

Mark
 
This whole run-out/concentricty thing is an interesting topic and I wonder how much it affects LR precision and accuracy?

A few years ago I bought a used Rem Sendero 25-06. It had a Tasco scope on it and came with some Rem factory ammo. Without cleaning it, I took it out and shot a few of the factory rounds from it @ about 110 yds. I shot a sighter then adjust the scope, then shot 3 more rounds. They measured .244" c-c. I took it home and proceeded to clean it and it took a bout week with Wipeout soakings to get it clean. I decided to take it to a local smith to bore sight it, and he said it was one of the worst firecracker barrels he had ever seen, and was greatly surprised at the group I had shot. Well I bought some Nosler BST's and worked up loads in 3 powders for it and RL17 was the fastest. So I loaded up a few for accuracy testing and it was consistently sub .5 MOA @ 212 and a good .5 MOA to 427 yds. Did not yet own a concentricity gauge. When I did get one, I found that my bullet run-out was in the .006-.010 range for the most part. The Rem factory ammo was the same. Sooo... we have a badly fire cracked barrel shooting factory ammo and handload ammo with some run-out, to . 5 MOA accuracy to 427 yds. It seems to defy logic.

Another interesting experience.... I had a lot of 150 gr Nosler BT's loaded for my M77 7 RM, which finally died on me. These were loaded with a good ole set of RCBS FL and stnd Seating dies. I decided to run them through my S&W 1500 7 RM for kicks. I tried chambering a round for fit and they were about .050 too tight. So I decided to run them through the seater again to shorten the COAL. As i was doing this, I noticed a very slight cam-over at the end of the stroke and didn't think much of it. BTW, these cartridges had been loaded about 12 years prior. Got to the range and chambered one and it was a little difficult closing the bolt. I fired and chambered anothe with yet again some difficulty in closing the bolt and fired again. I was seeing no signs of excessive pressure. The 2nd shot was touching the 1st. I chambered a 3rd with same difficulty and fired again. The 3rd shot was touching the second forming a .4 crescent shaped group. I was quite pleased at this point and tried to chamber a 4th, but this one was more difficult then the others so I decided to make an inspection. I found that all the case had wrinkles in the shoulder and some also had wrinkled necks. Apparently over 12 years the bullets had fused to the necks and when I re-sized them, it wrinkled the brass. 12 year old ammo produced with average dies and wrinkled brass shot out of a factory rifle in an unbedded wood stock shot a .4 MOA group. And, these bullets have roughly the same .005-.010 run-out as others I have loaded. Interesting to say the least.

I'm not really sure what the moral of the story is? I won't argue that less run-out is a good thing, but I wonder how much effect it has in the big picture?

I think when I get my next custom barrel project done, I'll separate some cartridges by bullet run-out and give it a look.

To the OP.... I highly recommend Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. A little on the outside, i apply with fingers and basically rub it on, not too much. I also stick the case neck into the wax about half way to get a little there and it makes a BIG difference. I stroke my sizing and seating Sloooowley. This seems to help and has reduced my run-out a good bit.

Mark

It's called age hardening of the brass cause by stress corrosion . Now that does not mean you see a heap of corrosion in the traditional sense .
the neck shrinks tighter on the bullet and neck welding can take place where the bullet bonds to some degree to the case neck .
I did a 10 year test on this and it is worse for reloads that may already be a bit hard and worse if cases are subjected to ammonia products.
Worse for uncoated bullets and high neck tensions to start with.
Here is a couple of photos one showing the neck shrinkage after 10 years loaded and teh other showing where a part ofa projectile was bonding with the cartridge brass . Moly coated bullets had the lowest grip and were laest affected.
Some of the uncoated bullets had very high neck tensions and took much greater leverage to pull the bullets and some that I fired with a face shield on produced higher recoil and flatter primers than new reloads with the same loads.
 

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If it was shrinkage, it was not visible to the naked eye. The necks are still straight in those cases where only the shoulder wrinkled and not the neck.

If I get some time, I'll post pics.
Look forward to the photos
If your bullet seats all the way down in the neck you will not see a wasp waist like my bullets . This phenomenon is not linear , it's not predictable , it's variable and inconsistent , but it does happen. I have even seen split necks .
There is many factors that increase or decrease the severity of stress corrosion .
We only need to know it can happen .
What my crude test proved was that Moly coating a bullet reduced the bad effects and that stress corrosion in brass does exist .
The shoulder in your ammo wrinkled because the neck tension was higher than the strength of the shoulder .
If the case necks are a bit dirty when an uncoated bullet is seated then as the brass does age it only takes a few thou shrinkage to increase neck tension dramaticly . I think reloaded ammo with no bullet sealer / lube or crimp is more prone to this than New Military ammo because oxygen and moisture in the air can get in over time . However even the Army likes to use up it's small arms ammo after about 7 years or so.
 
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