Muzzle brake timing?

Hired Gun

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Apr 21, 2003
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North Bend, Oregon
I saw a post awhile back that gave a good description on the machine work required to get a muzzle brake to line up. I just did my first one and overshot just a bit. Before I go another lap I would like to see that post again. Anyone know where it is or would like to share their technique on how to hit it on the first try.

Thanks
Shawn
 
HiredGun:

There is a direct relationship between threads per inch and their pitch. One of the greatest resources for every machinist and gun smith is the MACHINIST HANDBOOK.(you can buy a used one off e-bay or one of the book websites for a few dollars) If you are doing modern CNC a newer addition might be in order. It is the best resource out there. It has the formulas to use with every type of screw pitch. Doing it by the numbers will save you many inches of barrel and even more hours of frustration. I was tought trig but the matn teacher never cared enought to mak it useful in the shop. I went back and took algebra and trig again 40 years after graduating from college. The trig teacher at the community college made trig work in usefule applications.

After installing your action and head spacing it make a tick mark on the bottom as a refrence point. I do this with a scribe so it can't be wiped off. Mark 90 degrees on both sides with a sharpie marker. Now you have some refrences to do your brake alignmnet. Mark the bottom of the muzzle with a sharpie when you have he muzzle done.

If your muzzle brake threads are 32 tpi one revolution = 1/32 of an inch. Get a tape rule marked in 1/16ths or 1/32nds. Mark your muzzle brake with a begining index mark on the bottom. Make sharpie tick marks on the brake. Count the tick marks you need to go. Turn the shoulder or barke back accordingly. You may want to cut it just shy of the measured amount and lap it into perfect alignment.

Nat Lambeth
 
Thanks guys, I am pretty sure I am ready for the next one. I was just afraid to torque up hard the last few degrees. I had it and then tried to get the last bit in the lathe and I should have either just forced it or lapped it to have control over the last bit. I believe we will take another thread and try it again.

I already found that info Kirby had put up but it's still not the original thread that I had seen before. His info is helpful and now after doing one it makes more sense. I needed to cut a relief in the end of the brake to clear the chamfer or radious at the base of the barrel threads. I was sneaking up on that as we went and it kept interfearing. Now I will just get rid of the problem right from the get go. I have to wait until Thursday for open shop night at the college to do the next one.

Just an observation. Though the lathe I'm using has an electronic readout that shows .0000" it is not capable of making moves that small. It's like a digital caliper where the last digit moves in 5's

I want to get a lathe for dedicated gunsmith work. What is a proper amount to budget for and where can a guy find them?
 
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