Timing a muzzle brake

Purchased a couple and on one rifle it screws on easily and is only off by about 10deg(?) past where it would be lined up perfectly. It's not much at all. But enough to annoy me and my engineer OCD. So what's the best way to back it off?

Other rifle is a different story. Brake screws on hard the whole way and stops completely with about 0.300" gap. See picture.
View attachment 136287
So....what would be the best option for this situation?

Thanks for all your help
Muzzle brakes can be a literal bugger to install correctly. Your issue here with the thread not being cut deep enough on the inside of that brand of muzzle break. If you are so inclined purchase a 5/8 X 24 TP! " (I Assume that this is the Thread size) tap and place the muzzle brake in a lathe( or support it in a barrel vice )and continue to tap the threads deeper into the muzzle brake assuming that you had enough of a bore to get purchase for the threads and that is a lot. Or bring it to a machine shop or gunsmith. All this is in my opinion is a waste of time. Just send this one back for a refund! On your second one you can buy a variety of crush washers/ shims in different thicknesses and shim to correct depth. Try turning the brake lightly in a back & forth motion applying pressure on the washers keep at it a little at a time. If you need to either remove or add to your stack until you have it in time. Work slowly and carefully until timing has been achieved. Once in place do not plan on removal. Crush washers will prevent that. If you want a brake with easy install get a tunable 2 piece unit. In this manner with little effort you can remove said brake for cleaning /or to apply to another weapon providing both have the same (TPI )threads per inch. Look at the MTB Lil Bastard, in either 3 ,or four vents) This is what I currently have on my 6.5creedmoor, 308, 30-06
& 300 Win Mag FYI I'm a retired tool and die maker with 34 years experience and trying to set up a muzzle brake correctly takes (in my opinion) at least two people ,and some time plus equipment. Oh yeah when tuning the brake with a wrench place a plastic lunch bag over the two flats then place your wrench over them to prevent marring or gouging your brake. this will make a nice clean professional looking job.
 
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Purchased a couple and on one rifle it screws on easily and is only off by about 10deg(?) past where it would be lined up perfectly. It's not much at all. But enough to annoy me and my engineer OCD. So what's the best way to back it off?

Other rifle is a different story. Brake screws on hard the whole way and stops completely with about 0.300" gap. See picture.
View attachment 136287
So....what would be the best option for this situation?

Thanks for all your help

Shims from the brake vendor or smith.
 
If you can't find the crush washer readily let me know and I can mail you one or two...I have a couple extra!

I have a 1" barrel at muzzle. 5/8-24 threads. The rifle/brake that screws on difficult...I took that brake and it screws on the other rifle fine. And the thread protector screws fine on the muzzle that is difficult.

I'll try the emery cloth on the muzzle threads. Just have to find some.

I'm thinking I just need a 0.001" shim on the one rifle. And till I get the other one fixed, I don't know.


Thanks for the advice all
 
I have a 1" barrel at muzzle. 5/8-24 threads. The rifle/brake that screws on difficult...I took that brake and it screws on the other rifle fine. And the thread protector screws fine on the muzzle that is difficult.

I'll try the emery cloth on the muzzle threads. Just have to find some.

I'm thinking I just need a 0.001" shim on the one rifle. And till I get the other one fixed, I don't know.


Thanks for the advice all
Best of success!
 
I use feeler gages to figure what shims I need screw it down hand tight on it with about 1/8" offset so you can use a brass rod to tighten it down tight to line it up right
 
Well...I took my feeler gage and checked it. Had to back it off a turn to get a gap. About 0.040"
 
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