Recoil management-poor shooting

Had a 1lb Mercury recoil reducer in my custom CZ550 505 Gibbs...yes it SLOWED the recoil pulse, but the shove with and without it was the same.
Do the figures; 9lbs total weight (with the recoil reducer fitted) 600g bullet at 2350fps 148g Retumbo in Norma brass. 8lbs without the recoil reducer.

Cheers.

I think that I handle recoil pretty well.....but, I believe that would peg my "fun meter" pretty darn quick! ;) Though, I'd like to try it once.....probably "only" once!😁 memtb
 
Yep, an 8lb CZ 550 in 505 Gibbs, not really sure how ya got the weight down that low on the ole rifle but, mostly on those types if she's 10.5lbs of rifle, just about always like another 8oz of mercury in there workN on my side. ThinkN this Sako 300 wsm guy solveD his own problem anyways, still likeN the C&H tubes, like that mercury in there sloshN forward ,helpN enforce those physics laws .havagood1
 
Hmmmm! I believe I'd try the Hammer 130 gr. solid Hunter bullets. I load my 300 WSM to 3380 fps with them. If that's not manageable for you, add an up-vent muzzle brake and a slip-on recoil pad! Mine takes elk at 600 yards!
 
Dear all,
Thank you very much for everyone's input. I'm feeling a little silly after reading all these responses and then checking my gun cabinet and finding an uninstalled limbsaver recoil pad lying around in the drawer... It is sure installed on the gun now! Also, I have a past recoil shield but, I accidentally left it at home before I went to sight in the gun and I aggravated the situation by only going in my T-shirt... You would think with a DVM and Ph.D. I could figure this out, but clearly commonsense is not nearly as common as one would believe. Anyways, I hope to get back to the range in a couple weeks, this time with the recoils shield on my shoulder and the limbsaver pad installed, and hopefully will be able to print some decent groups.
Speaking of which, any advice for a YouTube video which actually shows the proper technique shooting an unbreaked, relatively lightweight magnum rifle off bipods from a bench would be helpful. I'm really thankful for all your advice,
It would be interesting to see some videos of guys actually shooting decent groups with a high recoiling rifle where the guy doesn't have a massive shoulder to cushion. I think there's probably a lot of older guys like myself that use the same style I do just because there wasn't brakes on anything back in the day and the rifles didn't have less recoil built into them. Even a 30-06 took some practice to get decent groups.
 
I think that I handle recoil pretty well.....but, I believe that would peg my "fun meter" pretty darn quick! ;) Though, I'd like to try it once.....probably "only" once!😁 memtb
I can assure you everybody that shot that rifle was in awe of the amount of muzzle flip.
Have a video of a guy shooting it, front leg rises a good 2' off the ground and his glasses, ear muffs and hat all come off his head.
Shooting my VC 500 Nitro 3 1/4" next to it is a breeze in comparison, that shoots 570g pills at 2150fps, rifle weighs 15lbs though.

Cheers.
 
I have a REM. 700 300 RUM. It has a carbon fiber stock and is light. The big thing it is ported. I shoot a 200 grain bullet and recoil is comparable to my .270 Win with 130 grain bullets. Porting is the key for recoil. I have previous exp with a .458 Win Mag. Unmanigible until ported. I think porting would change everything.
 
Yep, an 8lb CZ 550 in 505 Gibbs, not really sure how ya got the weight down that low on the ole rifle but, mostly on those types if she's 10.5lbs of rifle, just about always like another 8oz of mercury in there workN on my side. ThinkN this Sako 300 wsm guy solveD his own problem anyways, still likeN the C&H tubes, like that mercury in there sloshN forward ,helpN enforce those physics laws .havagood1
It was the fancy exhibition grade stock that made it so light. One of the prettiest, but lightest, English walnut stocks I have come across.

Cheers.
 
U gotta get a brake for the rifle....otherwise your groups will continue to suffer and your confidence will plummet. I've seen plenty of guys miss really close shots when the combination of nerves, excitement, and anticipated recoil does a number on them. I would get some real recommendations on which brake to use and hop to it.
The biggest improvement I saw with groups was when I started using better triggers...so if your factory can be adjusted, I'd lighten it. If not, a new trigger is not expensive and a must for me.
I'd also follow the other advice and shoot a lighter load. Dead is dead....
To top it off, I'd make sure I had myself a thick pad.
Then I would practice a lot from a hunting position. U won't likely have a lead sled in your blind or treestand.
good luck
 
A good muzzle brake not only reduces recoil but allows you to see your shot in the scope. Just got my first muzzle braked rifle from Ryan pierce and wouldn't go back watching a deer get hit and knowing you hit it at 600 yards at 25x is worth the loud noise. Sight in with ear protection
 
I shoot a very light Weatherby Ultralight, in 270 Win. I have a fairly hot 130 grn load, but the rifle came with an excellent recoil pad. That's a BIG HELP. Even with a good recoil pad on the rifle if intend to shoot 15 or more rounds from the bench, I put on my PAST recoil shoulder pad for that pre hunt range session. At 72 Years old, I do not enjoy sharp recoil . The PAST shoulder pad works very well. Since my rifle came with a thin 24 inch Krieger S/S fluted barrel, I prefer NOT to add any sort of a break.
 

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Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
Feel your pain. Flinch is a bad thing to deal with and will screw up short shots, much less long range mountain shots. Sight in with led sled. If your within 3", won't take much from there. Then only dry fire that rifle every day to get rid of that flinch. Brake isn't a bad idea and will help recoil, add'l pad etc. I also got a moldable fiberglass pad that goes into a shoulder sleeve to spread recoil. Got it for a high volume dove hunt in Argentina and was only guy without giant bruise at end of trip. But my suggestion is get it sighted in then only dry fire. Gotta get rid of that flinch.
 
It would be interesting to see some videos of guys actually shooting decent groups with a high recoiling rifle where the guy doesn't have a massive shoulder to cushion. I think there's probably a lot of older guys like myself that use the same style I do just because there wasn't brakes on anything back in the day and the rifles didn't have less recoil built into them. Even a 30-06 took some practice to get decent groups.

Would sub 2" inch, 3 shot groups @ 300 yards, from the bench, with a rifle producing 59+ ft/pounds recoil qualify?
To be clear, for general bench work I wear a PAST recoil shield......for extended sessions. For a half dozen rounds or so, for a zero check.......not needed! memtb
 

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