Muzzle brake stuck on brand new barrel

[engineer40]

I have a brand new stainless steel barrel (1 inch OD at muzzle).

I have previously put a different muzzle brake on the barrel to verify the thread pattern was correct for the way I ordered it.

A new muzzle brake came in the mail today so I went to do a quick fit test and the **** thing is stuck. I only put it on hand tight. It is not cross threaded. It was threading on fine and then tightened up a bit. I put a little more pressure on it and immediately thought, "nope it's not going on smooth, better take it back off".

I couldn't get it off with my hands. So I put on my rubber work gloves that always help me get a grip on anything. Still wouldn't budge. So I got out my big cheap screw driver, put a rag over it to protect the brake and slid it through the fins on the brake. I couldn't get it to move. I even used both hands on the barrel with the rubber gloves and had the screw driver handle against the floor and putting as much weight against it as I could.

I let it sit for a few hours with some 3-In-1 oil on both the threads hoping it would work it's way down. I don't think it is. I still couldn't make any progress.

I'm thinking WD40 or PB Blaster would work better for getting down into the threads. But I wanted to check with you guys first that neither chemical would harm the barrel in any way?

Historically I just rush in head first and use whatever chemical on whatever surface. That has bit me a couple times now so I wanted to double check if stainless steel would have any adverse affects from WD40 or PB Blaster?

Thanks!

 

[bigngreen]

Sounds like it's galled, stainless does that easily, I always check fit with anti seize first and make sure it's butter smooth before trying a dry or minimal anti seize fit. It'll need cut of and rethreaded and hopefully the brake can be saved.

 

[Wado]

I have heard of using acetone and automatic transmission fluid for penetrating oil, never used it. Might Google the recipe. I have used Kroil before to get stuck suppressor bodies apart. Stainless on stainless can gall so suddenly and then it's a mess. I bought a never seize stick applicator for suppressor threads and shotgun chokes, I never assemble them dry. Hope you get it off.

 

[engineer40]

Thanks.

I had no idea something like galling could happen by hand turning parts together.

This blows. I really hope I can get them apart somehow.

 

[engineer40]

So from Google'ing, the only thing that seems to work if it really is galled, is heat. The thought of heating my brand new barrel is horrifying to me.

 

[engineer40]

What do you guys think about freezing the entire barrel + brake together. Then heat just the brake?

I really don't want this barrel to get screwed up. Thanks for any opinions on this.

 

[Edd]

If it has really galled, nothing will do what you want it to do. Galled threads are welded together. You have to tear metal to separate them.

 

[eddief]

Sounds galled for sure. Hate to say it, but you'll probably have to have it cut off and re-threaded.

Stainless on stainless needs some anti seize or extreme pressure grease when fitting.

 

[NoFences]

I would soak it in kroil. if that doesn't work, nothing will.
http://www.kanolabs.com

 

[J E Custom]

Sounds like it's galled, stainless does that easily, I always check fit with anti seize first and make sure it's butter smooth before trying a dry or minimal anti seize fit. It'll need cut of and rethreaded and hopefully the brake can be saved.

+1

Stainless to stainless will gall unless anti seize is used. Once it galls, it will not get better because the stainless has upset and will only get worse no matter what you put on it or which direction you turn it.

You can turn the brake down where the threads are galled and maybe save the barrel threads.

Don,t worry, you are not the first one to do this.

J E CUSTOM

 

[FEENIX]

That's a bummer, I hope the OP have it resolved with minimum impact.

Having said, I'm glad I saw this thread before I jump too quickly in my attempt to test my new suppressor. Gotta get some anti-seize stuff ... gun)

 

[engineer40]

"Give Me a Lever Long Enough and a Fulcrum on which to place it; and I shall move the World."
-Archimedes

"Give Me a Lever Long Enough, and a friend to stand on my barrel, and blisters covering both hands; and I shall un-gall stainless steel."
-Engineer40

 

[Pdvdh]

And the rest of the story is? Did it come off? And how much thread damage? I feel your pain...

 

[engineer40]

I had my barrel + muzzle brake in the freezer overnight. When I took it out this morning I immediately submerged the threads in PB Blaster. My hope was that when the metal warmed it would allow the PB Blaster to work it's way into the threads some. I knew that would not help with the spot it was galled, but I figured it would help giving the rest of the threads some lube.

I left it submerged for about 5 hours. Then tightened a receiver to the barrel so I could use my action wrench as leverage... along with the longest screw driver Harbor Freight sells through the brake.

I eventually got it to budge. Once it budged I knew I was in business.

I finally got it all the way off. Upon inspection, it did rip some of the barrel threads out. Luckily, not much. I think I can clean the threads up with the correct thread file.

Blisters should heal within a week and life is good again!