Zero Stop question(s)

[johnnyk]

How does this work on the NF's? Is there something that sits below the moving turret that prevents it from going lower? Can I make one? Has anyone made one? Is there an aftermarket product for Nikons, Leupolds and Bushnells? JohnnyK.

 

[Nape.270]

Assuming you are talking about this. After zeroing my gun at 200yrds I made a ring out of aluminum with a lite press fit to fill the gap. I can still go about 5moa down. This is on my Sightron SIII 6-24x50.

 

[johnnyk]

Thanks Nate.270. That gets me thinking. I'll come up with something. JohnnyK.

 

[blipelt]

I to have thought about a zero stop for my NF. I was thinking about a set screw on the top of the turret.


Brent

 

[trueblue]

Machining a spacer under the turret works good. Will not get you as accurate a zero stop as Nightforce, but will get you on the same turn of the turret as where you are sighted in at.

 

[Gene]

Tried that with my NF, but then realized you cannot turn the dust cap down on its threads (not enough clearance on the turret barrel). Went in a different direction. I got some "White Out" typewriter correction fluid and used a very fine pointed brush to mark the lower setting on the elevation scale at 200 yds (my normal beginning point). The White Out can be removed easily with water, and if it gets too thin, you can touch it up easy.

 

[Nape.270]

It lets you now if your dialed out a rev or 2. My cap still screws on .

 

[AJ Peacock]

I looked at doing something like that and couldn't figure out a nice way that I liked. Then I decided to just turn the knobs down until they stopped and count the revolutions. I then wrote down the number of turns from the bottom of each knob. For my 338AM, it's 2 turns down for the elevation and 4 turns in on the windage. Pretty easy to verify my knobs if I start over thinking things.

AJ

 

[johnnyk]

Thanks a bunch guys. I like the spacer idea. I was eyeballing my wifes toe ring on the bathroom sink yesterday. Looks to be the right thickness. I wonder if she'll miss it? AJ: I did the same thing for the time being. I guess that revolution count could/would change if I put a 20MOA base on the rifle. JohnnyK.

 

[AJ Peacock]

Thanks a bunch guys. I like the spacer idea. I was eyeballing my wifes toe ring on the bathroom sink yesterday. Looks to be the right thickness. I wonder if she'll miss it? AJ: I did the same thing for the time being. I guess that revolution count could/would change if I put a 20MOA base on the rifle. JohnnyK.

Yep, so would the spacer height. Or, err the toe ring size

AJ

 

[johnnyk]

you laugh, some young kid is setting at his computer, making plans to purchase 1000's of toe rings, have them engraved with "Tactical", "Xtreme" or something "cool", and sell them to shooters for $49.99! JohnnyK.

 

[X3MHunter]

you laugh, some young kid is setting at his computer, making plans to purchase 1000's of toe rings, have them engraved with "Tactical", "Xtreme" or something "cool", and sell them to shooters for $49.99! JohnnyK.

Or maybe engraved with "X3M", but I'll sell them for $19.99 for LRH members. LOL

 

[Mikecr]

Be careful using spacers.
These are not like NF zero stops, which prevent further turning of the knob, rather than bottoming out.
You could damage the internals bottoming out, as the shaft could lift or stretch with the force provided by the threading(like torquing a stud). And the internals are pretty precise..

Technically, you could turn the knob until the guts pulled right out of the scope using a spacer under it. Just an extreme example for illustration.

 

[Buffalobob]

Be careful using spacers.
These are not like NF zero stops, which prevent further turning of the knob, rather than bottoming out.
You could damage the internals bottoming out, as the shaft could lift or stretch with the force provided by the threading(like torquing a stud). And the internals are pretty precise..

I took all of mine out after reports surfaced about damaged internals.

They are easy to make.

To make them just take slightly udersized PVC pipe and a radial arm saw and cut slices off. Open up the slices to just fit the scope. With gloves on use a upside down belt sander to thin the slices down to the needed thickness. Wear glasses as the PVC pipe will sometimes shatter and the saw blade will sling pieces at very high speed.