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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Why certain actions?
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 818777" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I will tell you what works for Me. Others may have other ideas on how to make the Savages</p><p>shoot.</p><p></p><p>First I go through the action and dimension everything to see if all the basic parts are Ok.</p><p></p><p>Bolt to action fit is where I find most of the problems (I have found .005 to .007 thousandths</p><p>difference in the bolt diameter from one end to another).</p><p></p><p>After Blue printing the complete action the next thing that I do is to do away with the barrel nut</p><p>and buy an after recoil lug There are Two sizes so be sure you buy the right one (The factory recoil lugs are terrible because they are punched out and are not the same thickness overall).</p><p></p><p>I find that very close Head space compresses the flex washer behind the bolt guide. So I head </p><p>space where the bole will just barely close on a go gage (Don't force it because the head space gage is very hard and could damage your chamber) If you want .001 to .002 thousandths</p><p>more than a go gage ,use brass shim stock between the bolt and the head space gage. (it</p><p>wont compress like tape will.</p><p></p><p>Buy eliminating the barrel nut you can increase barrel shank size around the chamber and do </p><p>a better bedding job.</p><p></p><p>With the bedding screws so close together I do a full bed under the action screws and do nothing</p><p>under the Tang where the safety is. I encapsulate the recoil lug 100 % and do not clearance any </p><p>part of it Unless you intend to shoot rapid fire for 10 or more shots in quick secession. </p><p></p><p>I also bed between 1/2 and 1'' in front of the recoil lug depending on the barrel contour. The heavier </p><p>the barrel the more support it can use. (Caution: don't bed past where the barrel shank starts to taper or it will push on the action when it starts to warm up).</p><p></p><p>After bedding is cured 24 to 48 hrs torque bedding screws to 45 inch pounds and test fire sometimes you can tune the action bu increasing the torque in 5 inch pound increments to improve accuracy </p><p>but don't exceed 65 inch pounds.</p><p></p><p>For the rear trigger guard screw I apply a little Locktite and just hand tighten it just enough to hold</p><p>(No More).</p><p></p><p>I do not use the barrel nut for many reasons, Others do and have there way of doing this maybe</p><p>they will chime in.</p><p></p><p>I hope this helps you.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 818777, member: 2736"] I will tell you what works for Me. Others may have other ideas on how to make the Savages shoot. First I go through the action and dimension everything to see if all the basic parts are Ok. Bolt to action fit is where I find most of the problems (I have found .005 to .007 thousandths difference in the bolt diameter from one end to another). After Blue printing the complete action the next thing that I do is to do away with the barrel nut and buy an after recoil lug There are Two sizes so be sure you buy the right one (The factory recoil lugs are terrible because they are punched out and are not the same thickness overall). I find that very close Head space compresses the flex washer behind the bolt guide. So I head space where the bole will just barely close on a go gage (Don't force it because the head space gage is very hard and could damage your chamber) If you want .001 to .002 thousandths more than a go gage ,use brass shim stock between the bolt and the head space gage. (it wont compress like tape will. Buy eliminating the barrel nut you can increase barrel shank size around the chamber and do a better bedding job. With the bedding screws so close together I do a full bed under the action screws and do nothing under the Tang where the safety is. I encapsulate the recoil lug 100 % and do not clearance any part of it Unless you intend to shoot rapid fire for 10 or more shots in quick secession. I also bed between 1/2 and 1'' in front of the recoil lug depending on the barrel contour. The heavier the barrel the more support it can use. (Caution: don't bed past where the barrel shank starts to taper or it will push on the action when it starts to warm up). After bedding is cured 24 to 48 hrs torque bedding screws to 45 inch pounds and test fire sometimes you can tune the action bu increasing the torque in 5 inch pound increments to improve accuracy but don't exceed 65 inch pounds. For the rear trigger guard screw I apply a little Locktite and just hand tighten it just enough to hold (No More). I do not use the barrel nut for many reasons, Others do and have there way of doing this maybe they will chime in. I hope this helps you. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Why certain actions?
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