Why am I splitting necks?

[Creedmoor shooter]

I am on my first box of Peterson 308 srp 15+ firings so far. Anneal after each firing no splits or loose primer pockets so far. Weighed each case all were within 1grain except for 4 they 1 1/2 grains. I neck size only and have turned them also. Best brass I have ever used.

I had bought some ADG and was not impressed. Pockets were junk after 4 firings. I'm hoping this peterson lasts me awhile. I'd like 10 firings

 

[Kerryt38]

After I get home from work I'll post the bushing you need for your Peterson brass

 

[Kerryt38]

I'm pretty sure it was the.289 but I'll double check

 

[benchracer]

This may help answer some annealing questions:

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

I'm pretty sure it was the.289 but I'll double check

A loaded round with my adg and norma was .2905

 

[CatShooter]

Wrong...

The orange color is from burning of carbon based material - oil, wax, case polish.

Copper, zinc, and tin, all "burn" with a green flame... anything that shows orange is from carbon.

If you completely wash cases (very well) you can heat them white hot without seeing the orange color.

This photo shows 6 cases - all are unfired Winchester 6mm Remington cases.

ALL 6 OF THEM WERE ANNEALED FOR THE SAME TIME, AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE!!

Three on the left were right from the bag (with Winchester polish on them), the three on the right were washed in Tide liquid clothes detergent, in boiling water, and then rinsed in plain water.

It should be obvious to anyone that the color on the case can not tell you much, and is no indication of the state of anneal.

You cannot "over anneal" cases if you are using propane and air.

 

[Hatrick]

Wrong...

The orange color is from burning of carbon based material - oil, wax, case polish.

Copper, zinc, and tin, all "burn" with a green flame... anything that shows orange is from carbon.

If you completely wash cases (very well) you can heat them white hot without seeing the orange color.

This photo shows 6 cases - all are unfired Winchester 6mm Remington cases.

ALL 6 OF THEM WERE ANNEALED FOR THE SAME TIME, AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE!!

Three on the left were right from the bag (with Winchester polish on them), the three on the right were washed in Tide liquid clothes detergent, in boiling water, and then rinsed in plain water.

It should be obvious to anyone that the color on the case can not tell you much, and is no indication of the state of anneal.

You cannot "over anneal" cases if you are using propane and air.

The more I read the more I learn. Thank you Cat.

 

[Canhunter35]

Wrong...

The orange color is from burning of carbon based material - oil, wax, case polish.

Copper, zinc, and tin, all "burn" with a green flame... anything that shows orange is from carbon.

If you completely wash cases (very well) you can heat them white hot without seeing the orange color.

This photo shows 6 cases - all are unfired Winchester 6mm Remington cases.

ALL 6 OF THEM WERE ANNEALED FOR THE SAME TIME, AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE!!

Three on the left were right from the bag (with Winchester polish on them), the three on the right were washed in Tide liquid clothes detergent, in boiling water, and then rinsed in plain water.

It should be obvious to anyone that the color on the case can not tell you much, and is no indication of the state of anneal.

You cannot "over anneal" cases if you are using propane and air.

Should a person quench or not bother with it?

 

[CatShooter]

Should a person quench or not bother with it?

I quenched when I started annealing (in 1965)... but it turns out that it does nothing - good or bad - so it makes no difference.

 

[Canhunter35]

I quenched when I started annealing (in 1965)... but it turns out that it does nothing - good or bad - so it makes no difference.

That's what I gather, but I was told to quench so that's all I've done so far. Next batch I'll try without quenching I guess

 

[kiwikid]

The only difference with quenching or not quenching is if you don't quench you have dry cases that you can continue prepping as apposed to wet cases that you have to wait to dry. When I watched the video my thoughts were very similar to CatShooter's. There is some very good info on this site https://www.ampannealing.com/index/ under the section Annealing.

 

[MNbogboy]

Sorry I meant .295(fat fingers) lol. They dont go in the die mean but they can come back out pretty stiff

A couple of thoughts;
1. Come back out pretty stiff (maybe donuts).
2. Post #13 had some head separation ? (Over sizing length)...
3. Post #28 .002 bump which is good but would not account for earlier head separation. Did you change your sizing?
4. I once neck sized a 260 for a while and then switched to fls...the worst case of donuts result. The expander pulled real hard out (like you mentioned). The bullets seated deep pushed the donut back out. My best guess was the donut material was "nicked" (for lack of a better word) during chambering/firing. The damaged (thin)spot at the neck/shoulder junction now became the weak link and was stretched thinner at each successive firing.
Neck splits as yours began shortly after. They could be spotted prior to splitting as a small imperfection. Often a small split wasn't spotted until the brass was loaded.
Cure was start over with new brass (rem) from same lot. FLS only with .002 bump. Check and ream donuts after every firing (usually only twice and they didn't show up anymore). Got up to 35 loadings from that lot but usually the pockets were gone by 20. One more thing I don't anneal until bullet seating becomes erratic.
My nickels worth,
Randy

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

A couple of thoughts;
1. Come back out pretty stiff (maybe donuts).
2. Post #13 had some head separation ? (Over sizing length)...
3. Post #28 .002 bump which is good but would not account for earlier head separation. Did you change your sizing?
4. I once neck sized a 260 for a while and then switched to fls...the worst case of donuts result. The expander pulled real hard out (like you mentioned). The bullets seated deep pushed the donut back out. My best guess was the donut material was "nicked" (for lack of a better word) during chambering/firing. The damaged (thin)spot at the neck/shoulder junction now became the weak link and was stretched thinner at each successive firing.
Neck splits as yours began shortly after. They could be spotted prior to splitting as a small imperfection. Often a small split wasn't spotted until the brass was loaded.
Cure was start over with new brass (rem) from same lot. FLS only with .002 bump. Check and ream donuts after every firing (usually only twice and they didn't show up anymore). Got up to 35 loadings from that lot but usually the pockets were gone by 20. One more thing I don't anneal until bullet seating becomes erratic.
My nickels worth,
Randy

The case head separation I had was with a .002 bump with hornady brass. I thought I must have been over sizing too, but it doesn't make sense it would separate with a .002 bump. I'm not seeing any donuts, but I'll take a real good look again later on.

 

[MNbogboy]

The case head separation I had was with a .002 bump with hornady brass. I thought I must have been over sizing too, but it doesn't make sense it would separate with a .002 bump. I'm not seeing any donuts, but I'll take a real good look again later on.

Try sliding a bullet in a fired case. If it slides in and stops at the junction, it probably is a donut. The shank end of a 17/64 drill bit might work instead of a bullet.
Also a 17/64 reamer works for removal (at the unfired state).
Good luck,
Randy